Pull it out of the pot. I will bet you will find very soggy roots. Re-pot with appropriate potting medium. If the tangelo is in a pot (and will be brought inside), it won't hurt doing another fertilizer application, just be sure your fertilizer has micros. You can also try applying some chelated iron, if you think what you're seeing is iron deficiency. Patty S.

As a bonsai practitioner, I have to know a LOT about how plants work in order to be successful. Technically, a new leaf cannot grow from the bud in question, only a new branch with the potential to give rise to many leaves can grow there. In every leaf axil (an 'axil' is the crotch formed by the leaf stem [petiole] and the branch the leaf is attached to) and above every leaf/bundle scar (the scar directly under the bud in your image), are a row of latent buds waiting to be stimulated to grow. In healthy trees growing outdoors these buds produce random branching whenever growing conditions are very good. Trees growing indoors, due primarily to lack of light and inadequate air movement, often need these latent buds to be stimulated chemically into becoming active. I'm not talking about them being stimulated by actually applying a chemical stimulant; rather, I'm referring to the change in the plant's chemistry which occurs when the growing tip of the branch is removed. This area at the tip of the branch is called the branch apex, plural is apices, or it's often referred to as the apical meristem. Primarily in that area of the branch, a chemical, auxin, which suppresses activation of these buds is synthesized. Auxin moves only downward toward the roots, so removing the the apical meristem where it is primarily synthesized sharply limits auxin flow and its suppressive influence on the axillary buds we're discussing. This allows another chemical (cytokinin) to become dominant, and one of it's jobs is to activate the axillary buds. This antagonistic balancing act between auxin and cytokinin is the chemical relationship on which almost all pruning strategies are based. This is a Ficus microcarpa cutting from which the apex/apical meristem has been removed. since that halts almost all synthesis of auxin, new branches are forming in the axils of both mature leaves. As these branches develop, many single leaves will grow along the new branches, and they too will have a row of buds in their axils, or if the leaf is shed, above the scar left where it was attached (what your image shows). So, leaves that form at nodes while the branch is extending will always remain a single leaf - like the two mature leaves in my image - they can never be anything but a single leaf. All growth that comes from the dormant buds in leaf axils or (the same) dormant buds above old leaf scars, will always be branches. BTW - these buds remain able to be activated at any time during the tree's life, even if the scars are no longer visible and bark growth has completely obscured the older leaf scars. Questions? Al

if it wasn't because i can see that the soil is wet, i would say it it looks wilted from underwatering. so maybe you're overwatering it and it's got root rot. dieffenbachia are one of those plants that won't forgive you if you overwater it. however, you also have to make sure that it never goes fully dry and you maintain the soil moderately moist for these. that being said, make sure it's in a pot with good hole/s at the bottom to let it breath despite the slightly damp (not soggy) soil. but one thing is for sure, that plant needs more sunlight (indirect) because not only is it only growing small leaves but it has lost all its variegation. if you want to maintain it in a darker part of the house, it needs at least a lamp near it, but at least 6 inches away, because even cfl bulbs can scorch leaves like sunlight.

mites are suckers.. they dont eat leaves .. so im a bit confused at that ... what kind of soap did you use.. a horticultural product.. or dish detergent??? its very stressed... especially after ... the repotting ... im thinking you might be on the verge of loving it to death ...remove from direct sun... but very bright place .. and leave it alone for a month .. it will either die ... or start growing again ... btw... the new media.. did you moisten it before putting the plant in it ??? .. once watered in.. it should not need water for weeks until it starts drying... it should not need watering every few days .... i cant tell from the pic.. but it the entire top growth tip shriveled and dead looking.. if so.. growth will come from a leaf node.. if we can get it stabilized .... youve done what you could.. lets just give it time to recover ... ken