Actually, I'm not on here much myself. As for dormancy, I'm well aware of what it is, no worries. The fly trap I have sold, anyway, as the tank is FAR more full now than it is when I took that picture, and I needed the room. And even then, I have some Cephalotus and perhaps some other things that I need to sell/trade off for additional space. The tank will also be upgraded to a 75 gallon soon, with 2 x 130W 6500K PC lighting (I'll post pictures when done...probably not until after the New Year, though. I'll try to get some pictures of the current terrarium today or tomorrow. I've let some of the plants get a little out of control, and it's not as clean as I'd like, but so be it.

Speaking as a Biology teacher, your teacher is unfortunately incorrect. As has been pointed out, sealed terrs are typically very problematic in large part because of the issue of stagnant air. Few plants (or animals for that matter) do well under such conditions and fungi -- including pathogenic ones -- thrive. Furthermore, vfts are EXTREMELY poor terr candidates for a number of reasons: 1) They are very high light plants ... even up to full sun. In a terr it is difficult to provide that kind of light intensity without raising the temperature to lethal levels. 2) Vft's like to send their roots quite deep. This would require a fairly large terr. 3) Most significantly, vfts REQUIRE a chilly/cold winter's dormancy to maintain health/vigor. Without it, they weaken and die -- though they may survive for two or three (maybe four if you are very lucky) years before finally kicking the bucket. Unless you plan on giving the entire tank a cold dormancy or digging the vfts up to do so, they are better off not setting a root tip in a terr. Now having said this, some cps can be done in a "sealed" terr BUT it will require the inclusion of fans for air circulation and a rather large tank too. I say "sealed" in quotes because while the terrs in question are left closed for periods of time they are by no means left closed permanently. People I know growing Nepenthes, for example, this way, do open up the tank every day or two as they check on the plants and allow an exchange of fresh air. It is far easier to go for a partly sealed tank setup (still using fans) as one can keep humidity levels up while allowing for some air exchange. With such a setup, there are a number of cps -- pinguicula, utricularia, and drosera -- that could be used. With regards to the ant idea ... The concern regarding ants harming the plants is not terribly likely unless you were to obtain species that -- like the leaf cutter ants -- actually use vegetation as a food source. However, the issue of wet, stagnant conditions would prove detrimental to most ant species. Also most ant species are carnivorous or scavengers. So you would have to have present a renewable prey/food source for them. And unless you did have a very well sealed setup, you would in all likelihood have ants touring your room and/or home. (And I suspect your parents might object to that. )

Hi, I don't know about the tiger's jaw but I can speak for the VFT and pitcher plant. You can grow the VFT outside in your area without the use of a green house in summer and winter months. Although I say winter months, but keep in mind your relatively mild winters, which may get some cold at night or snow/ice for a day and melt by next day. If you ever get some extreme weather constantly for too many days, I can't say how the plants will be. For the pitcher plant, you will want to bring it in during winter, but otherwise, it can grow outside also. As for the spring and summer months, while it may look like the VFT cannot handle full sun, it actually can. I have some in sun all day and some that get afternoon shade. All are doing well. I describe it that way because it has always been a bit of experimentation to see what works and what doesn't, based on our own local climate or even microclimates. So far, sun and afternoon shade are OK. The tip on this is to make sure the growing medium remains moist and does not totally dry out. To do that, either water regularly or use a water tray. For the pitcher plant, I have seen some people growing in full sun, but for those pitchers that I saw, they were growing where temperatures may get to 80s or 90s in the summer. Because my summer temperatures get much higher than that, as well as little rainfall or few cloudy days, I tend to err on the side of caution and grow in afternoon shade or dappled shade throughout the day. This is because I do not have too many specimens yet. When I get to that point, I will definitely try some pitcher plants in full sun. But either way, the answer to your question is that they do not need to be grown in that particular greenhouse. The pitcher plant takes some time to adjust to its surroundings before making pitcher. It may even make them only at certain times of the year because the conditions became better for it. For example, all my pitcher plant varieties began making pitchers last fall, when they did not do it at all during the summer. That is, of course, if you let nature take the course. If you want to help encourage pitchers, then you'll need to read up on the different ways that others have used to help make more pitchers on the plants even while the conditions did not let the plant do it by itself. For your green house, I think it will handle light pots or seedling pots on those shelves. If you do have any plants that you can put there, just make sure they are not too heavy.

I have tons of carnivorous plants. Looking for echinocereus and escobaria or any cold hardy species. I'll over compensate, ship first or whatever makes you feel comfortable. For pics of my plants check out @sarraceniacrazy on instagram. Thanks! Eric