Every time I talk to someone who has had cataract surgery and they tell me about their vastly improved vision, I get envious, especially if it's close-up vision that was improved. I am SO TIRED of not being able to see things clearly--up close--sometimes even with my glasses. Guess I won't wish for cataracts, but if I should get them, I'll gladly have the surgery. Anneliese, enjoy your enforced rest!

Anyone who missed the first night ---- a repeat is on tomorrow morning on USA. And the finale is tomorrow night. Socks, the Westies are terriers, and that group is shown on Tuesday night. We have a friend who has been named top breeder and top trainer, and she'll be honored, and we know a couple of the dogs and handlers in the show, too. Our breed, the Golden Retriever, will show tomorrow in the sporting group. If anyone is interested in the individual bred judging, it's shown online, just google Westminster Kennel Club.

"Please explain how increasing the temperature does not use more energy than leaving at a constant." I thought I had explained it but I'll try more detail. Since you seem to have your mind made up, it may not make a difference for you. Let me round off the numbers and try a simple example, ignoring furnace efficiency. It's cold outside (the temp doesn't matter) and your home is losing 50K Btus per hour at 65 deg interior setting. It would lose 30K BTUs per hour at a 58 degree inside setting. If it takes 4 hours for your house to drop from 65 to 58, let's say it loses 160 K BTUs of heat (40K per hour on average). Had it stayed at 65, it would have used 200K BTUs (50K per hour that's lost at 65 deg) to maintain the temperature. When it was dropping to the setback, it used nothing. To warm the place back up to 65 will require restoring the same 160K BTUs it lost in dropping to 58. The usage during the period the temp drops and then is restored is 160K BTUs instead of 200+ maybe 100= 300K. So the savings from a 4 hour setback is 140K BTUs not used. Also, for the hours it's at 58 instead of 65, it's using 30K BTUs per hour instead of 50K, saving 20K per hour. It actually will use a bit more than 160K to restore the setback temperature during recovery because the home will continue to lose heat while the temperature is rising. But it would have either way. (Gas is usually measured in Therms - that's 100 cubic feet of gas, also 100K BTUs). Most PUCs (Public Utilities Commissions) require their regulated utilities to pay customers rebates for installing energy conserving or energy efficient equipment. In my area, installing a smart setback thermostat earns a $50 rebate. You can be sure that if using one didn't save energy, they wouldn't pay you to buy one.

Anna said it well. Monitor the plants closely because the shop LED's you have are not grow lights. If the plants become leggy with long skinny stems and short narrow leaves you may not have the right color light plants use. Sunlight is made from many colors of light and you can see the different colors with a light prism or looking at a rainbow, and each color has it's own spectrum or wavelength. The color of the rainbow which plants don't use is green and is reflected away, and why plants are green. The problem with shop LED's is they have a narrow wavelength (limited color) so you need the colors plants use.. An LED grow light will usually be called "full Spectrum" with all the colors or only have the blue and red wavelengths, but a shop led has a narrow spectrum emitting a narrow range of color. But this doesn't mean your shop lights won't work. Light colors can also be expressed as Kelvin color temperature and would be listed on your LED shop light packages. If the Kelvin color is 3000K to 4000K (and called soft, natural or warm white) they emit mostly green light with some red and will be a challenge for your plants no matter how close they are to the plants. If your packages state the kelvin color is 5000K to 6500K (called daylight) They have more blue light and the color or spectrum plants use. You don't need full spectrum grow lights to grow health seedlings, you only need lights which emits the most energy in the light color spectrum your plants need, red or blue. If your LED's are 3000K lights most of the energy is in the green color plants don't use. I'd suggest if these are what you have to exchange them for lights in the 5000K spectrum where more energy is emitted in the blue light spectrum plants use.