Very beautiful flower and plant. I hope it flourishes with your new found attention :) After a few years and more orchids in my trash than I wish to admit...I invested in the following: Physan 20, Phyton 27 (which will treat bacterial infection that your plant may have Erwinia or Pseudomonas), Neem oil, 1600 Xclude, Mosquito bits, and lastly Subdue Maxx (the last one is a bit over the top and specifically for black rot Pythium). Physan 20 is basically like bleach which you dilute and clean surfaces with to protect against fungi, algae and bacteria. Phyton 27 is for more serious bacterial infections that are common. Neem oil for the bugs. These are the three I would recommend. If fungus gnats become an issue then the bits help. The 1600Xclude and Subdue are pretty, well, extreme and not necessary in most people's views I read...but I am a bug maniac. Subdue Maxx is specifically for the black rot; the only other way to treat it is to do exactly what you did which is carefully with a sterile blade, dispose of the diseased portion of the plant and pray it doesn't spread any further. I started with about 5 plants myself over 5 years ago...I have about 75 now and building a greenhouse ^.^ Welcome to what will soon be your best love! PS. It is worth saying that the BEST way to avoid disease is to provide the proper culture for the plant...which you have done with your re-potting etc.

lakelifer - a pH of 4.6 is the cut point and the minimum pH goal is 4.1-4.3. Anything with a pH above 4.6 is considered a low-acid food and so must be pressure canned if used in its natural state. If pickled, then of course the acidity falls well below that level and can be safely BWB thanks to the vinegar. Any thing below 4.6 is considered acid food and can be BWB processed unless it is mixed with low-acid foods. But it isn't just the pH that determines the safety of a product. Other factors that must be computed into the type and time required for processing include: the consistency/density of the food, the presence of nutrients that are "protective" for bacteria (e.g., high protein and sugar levels), the shape and size of the jar, the size, shape and texture of food pieces, the solid to liquid ratio, the temperature of the food at the beginning of the process, and the temperature inside the canner. [NCHFP - "Heat Processing of Home Canned Foods"] Tomatoes fall on the line so as a borderline low-acid food that have to have acid added to them when canning to insure safety. Dave

Since tomatoes are grown in almost every climate and there are many different type there is no right way to do it but depending on the context there can be wrong ways. An older retire has all day to water but is too frail to move a 20 gallon container. I can advise such people 3 gallon is doable. It would be a horrible solution for those that plan on week long summer excursions or want maximum production. If you are one of those people who plant their garden in way back yard and forget to visit it for a week or two then I strongly suggest that you cage every 3 feet. When disease is a problem it is less feasible to pack them together. On the the hand growing in containers close together makes changing out the soil trivial to rotate away from the disease etc. Some times there is better sun further up the trellis. If one wants larger and earlier fruit then by all means prune(at the cost of total production). This also means those with lots of space may also want to prune to a single vine for the early fruit. There are just too many urban, forested settings and where caging a plant every 3 feet is not desirable. There is one site I like about a garden that terraces into a mountain. That space is precious. I used to be one of those where I grew up with a sunny large flat back yard. Now I have a 6 foot strip on the south side of the front yard and side of the house because its shaded elsewhere. I go from raised beds to containers once I hit the side of the house. A few big cages and a few hills of squash is just going to eat up my space. I do pole beans rather than bush for this reason. 3 foot cages is simply designed for one cultural practice with specific goals in mind which I would classify as lower maintenance and cost utilizing an available space resource. The default advice seems to be traditional row gardening and it does not always apply. However its also true not to take advice on intensive gardening and then treat it like a row garden. In one case an urban gardener will just not even try. In the other case such a person will be discouraged to try again.

google REJUVENATION PRUNING OF SHRUBS .... review a link and a few videos ... then come to the shrub forum for more help .. if you wish .... you have some nice low growth ... and it could take over.. with proper pruning .... but it will take a few years to get back to height ... presuming its a valuable plant.. and not invasive .... ken