Some seeds completely lose viability shortly after they are ripe and can't hack dry storage, but most are fine with dry storage, and a lot of seeds actually benefit from dry storage and become easier to germinate over several years, with then gradually decreasing viability. What's important is how they are stored. If they are exposed to heat or humidity, their viability can decrease greatly. But if they are kept cool and dry, they can last for many years. Seed banks store seeds dry and frozen and estimate 200+ years of seed viability under these conditions. The best thing to do is test some seeds from each batch. Then you will know what you are starting with. You can usually do a quick germination test on a wet paper towel. Then store the ones that are good in dry, cool conditions.

There ARE advantages of winter sowing verses direct sowing though, Kay. Direct sown seeds can get blown away, washed away, eaten by birds or bugs. By sowing them in a container, you may not gain a lot as far as the bloom date, but you have more control over the germination process as a whole. Tomatoes and peppers are about the only things I may sow some of indoors. All of the cool season veggies and herbs will be WS, along with all of my perennials, and annuals. The annuals won't be sown until March or early April, and yes the blooms will be a little behind the nursery bought plants, but the plants will be stronger and many will bloom well past the first frost. For those of us that don't have room for sowing indoors, or have a green house, wintersowing allows us to still grow from seed. Primgal, I hope that you won't give up on growing from seed. It's just a matter of finding a way that works for you. We are all learning as we go. Happy sowing, Bonnie

I planted a bunch of two liter pop bottles over the weekend -- just in time to be buried in the snow! I need to sit down and really think about what I want to plant, how I want the garden to look, and -- what the heck! Everything looks good with freen, right? This weekend I planted cerinthe, balsam, sweet william, white thunbergia, cypress vine, chamomile, and tomatoes -- mortgage lifter, yellow pear, banana cream and grape. (I'm particularly curious about "banana cream" tomatoes!)

FAQ-SEED CHANGE Outline 1--Special Instructions for the Seed Exchange --make them a LOT friendlier than the existing ones are, if OK with GW. 2-Getting set up and started A--setting up your GW profile and email settings B--setting up your Trade Page-Post the date it was updated at the TOP of the page --note seed source if other than your garden Commercial (C)-Garden (G) received in Trade (T) --note year harvested, received in trade or purchased, if it is known. C-Member Page Blurb-share a bit about yourself or your gardening style and/or challenges. Even if you are a very private person, possibly you could at least share with us what you enjoy growing. 3--Nothing to trade? Join in the fun by responding to Seeds for Postage ‘offers’ --Everything you ever wanted to know about seeds for postage offers --Members with excess seeds to share 4--Can I trade seeds I have gathered from my garden, ie flowers, vegetables, shrubs, trees, etc? What about saving seeds from Hybrid plants? --and also refer them to the Saving Seed Forum, and/or the FAQ there. 5--How should I label my seed packets? Both common and botanical names if known Year of harvest or purchase or received in trade Your GW Member Name, in case there are any questions Additionally growing instructions are nice but not required. It’s also nice to note if the seeds are annuals or perennials if known. (This is just FYI - My seed packets contain the following information plant name, annual/perennial/biennial, USDA Zone, Number of seeds, Light, Soil, Height, (bloom time and color if there is room), my screen name and the year of harvest. ) 6--How many seeds are considered a fair trade? How many seeds are considered a 'fair' trade? A fair trade is whatever you and the other trader agree to. Generally, two to three dozen seeds should be enough to ensure germination and growth of a satisfying number of plants. However, the most certain way to assure both parties will be satisfied is to discuss quantities when negotiating the trade. -- 7--Can I trade last years seeds or seeds older than that? (Some seeds must be fresh to be viable while some can be decades old and still be viable. If you are trading for seeds that do not remain viable for long discuss their freshness with the other person when you negotiate the trade. ) 8--Posting a trade --checking R and R 9--How do I pack my seeds for trading and then protecting them when mailing them? --What should I include? 10--Where do I buy bubble envelopes, and what size should I buy? Are they then reusable? Do I 'have' to buy and use bubble envelopes? Can I just use bubble wrap in a regular envelope? List numerous places where bubble envelopes envies can be bought and suggest sizes...plus more 11-postage costs...sigh 12-Once your trade is complete-The Rate and Review Forum --Please leave a review 13-- I have questions and don't see the answers anywhere. Who or where can I ask? Suggest using the Conversation side of the Seed Exchange, and maybe doing a search via the search box found just below the list of threads on page one. ***extra things to add How do I learn more about Winter Sowing that I see referred to so much? How can I find out how to save and dry my own seeds? How do I know if my saved seeds are viable? Can I save and trade seeds from hybrid plants? Will they grow true from seed? How should I store my seeds? Seed Exchange acronyms, abbreviations and various terms How to Post Pictures Misc Hints and Tips +++++++++++++...glean more info from the existing FAQ and/or rework maybe