They can be cleaned and stratified right away. After the first cold period the seeds will germinate and form roots. After the second cold period they will usually send up a single small leaf. I have tried forcing them using a fridge and a growth chamber but didn't have much luck after the second cold treatment due to algae and mold forming around the pots. The challenge was keeping them from drying out for all that time and in hindsight a flat would have been better than individual pots. The success rate was much higher just planting them in the field and waiting. Here is a link that might be useful: Trillium seed propagation

Fresh seed produce most reliable germination. Old and dried seed may produce some seedlings, but the germination percentage will probably be low or none and takes longer. Trillium seed require a double dormancy, a warm-cold-warm period and a second warm-cold-warm period. If seed are planted and left outdoors, they usually begin germination during the second year. Select a pot or tray large enough to accomodate the quantity of seed you have, without crowding them. If the pot is a reused one, sterilize it by washing in a solution of one part household chlorine bleach and nine parts water. Use a soilless mix, or better, a seed starting mix, which is a finer texture. Moisten the mixture before planting the seed. Be sure the pot or tray has good drainage. Place the seed on the moistened mix, keeping them separated as much as possible. I use tweezers or plastic gloves to avoid contact with the seed, which may contaminate them. Cover the seed with about ½" of moistened potting mix and then ½" or less of washed coarse sand. This prevents moss and algae from growing on the surface. Cover the pot with a fine metal screen mesh to prevent rodent damage. You may plunge the pot in sand or soil, up to just below the rim and cover with leaves or conifer needles during the winter, to conserve moisture. Remove the mulch in the spring. Check frequently during dry periods for soil moisture and do not allow the soil to become dry. When seed begin to germinate, you will see a single leaf-like form (cotyledon) emerge. It usually remains for the first year and true leaves will emerge the following year. Depending upon the species, it will usually require 3-5 years before flowering occurs. Some say much longer. To prevent damping-off, drench the soil with garlic water after planting. (one or two cloves of minced garlic in a pint of water, let steep for a few hours). If you use sterilized soil and pot and good sanitation practice, that is usually unnecessary. After true leaves appear, if you wish to fertilize them, use a slow release general purpose fertilizer, such as 14-14-14, in the spring. I usually wait until they attain a height of several inches before removing them from the pots and transplanting in the garden. Hope other members with experience growing Trillium from seed will chime in with their process. Always helps to have different perspectives. Rb

Are there pictures of this so I can see what you crazy people are doing? We don't have a picture gallery for this forum, and Gardenweb asks that we avoid linking to other sites in the FAQ that might go dormant later. However, search for "pictures" or "pics" in our forum, and see if any of the discussion threads have pictures included! We usually have at least a few.When should I plant...? Can I grow ...? What is this pest / disease / plant? These questions are best directed towards the regional forums or those about that type of plant. The FAQs in those other groups will often have the answers to these questions for you, and if not, gardeners in similar situations are in a better spot to help you out on issues not specific to raised beds and intensive planting. Try the Vegetable Gardening forum, the Organic Gardening forum, the various regional forums, the Pests forum, or your county extension service. You can find the list of all the GW forums here.How do I learn more?A web search for any of the following phrases should help you tremendously. Put quotes around the phrases for best results: "square foot gardening" "Mel Bartholemew" "intensive gardening" or "French intensive"Mel Bartholemew's Square Foot Gardening book and website are highly recommended for a good, basic introduction to one intensive gardening method. There are others, of course, and you will find them as you search and learn more. If we haven't answered your questions here, post and we'll do our best to make something up! Permission gained from Mel Bartholemew to share his ideas and material when his name, website, or book is mentioned, June 2003. FAQ compiled and formatted primarily by fuzzy and Ray_Scheel.

Martha, I have not had much success (some) although they readily seed out in the woodlands. I know they are to be planted fresh. I keep trying, so if nobody has asked for the seeds, I would be glad to experiment again. Let me know, and I can send my mailing address off list. Have been traveling but also have not been active on this site much anymore. I have to admit doing more on Face Book.