Hi Jbfoodie, I think we have to use latin names, or it will be a misunderstanding. I see now there's a difference between "violets" and "violas" - it's the same in italian, "violette" (Viola tricolor, V.x withrockiana and hybrids, like in Sielverkelt's pictures above) and "viole" (V. odorata and related, like V. riviniana, V. sororia, V. princeana), like in the picture here: (from the garden of my friend Gabriella in Umbria, Italy) Viola sororia (bot blue and white, or spotted like 'Freckles') and V. princeana (amazingly beautiful, the flowers seems to be white porcelain with a blue, thin net painted in their centers) are tuberous, and deciduous, they spread from seeds around the mother plant. Viola riviniana (V. labradorica 'Purpurea'), Viola odorata and Viola hederacea spread by layering stems (hope this is the correct word... Melissa, help me! :o)) but also reseed themselves freely (and abundantely), except for V. hederacea (aka Viola banksii). These violas are also evergreen. Viola hederacea isn't fragrant, unfortunately, but she's so pretty.... Here is a link that might be useful: Viola banksii/hederacea at ASGAP website

You use different pots to ensure that if a water mold fungus, or root rot sets in not all of your cuttings will die. I've started ROS in pots before and they are pretty easy to do. Since I'm a basic and simple person I use this method: Coarse builders sand (not play box sand), Siran Wrap, bamboo stakes and Clay pots. If you tend to overwater (and I do) this helps lessen the chances of root rot. You don't need a tall cutting, so you can use a normal sized clay pot, say 8 inches or so. Use the Bambo stakes (cut to size) inserted in the sand to hold the Siran Wrap up and away from the cuttings. You space your cuttings not only for air circulation but also so that there will be space between the roots when you remove the cuttings from the sand. In an 8 inch clay pot you will probably use 2 cuttings per pot. When a month or so has passed (or if you see new growth) it's simple to gently slide a large spoon or something like that down into the sand and lift up the cutting to see how the roots are developing. Return back to pot if you aren't satisfied. If you are move to a pot that has very well drained potting mix in it (add additional sand or perlite if necessary). Good luck

I have learned many, many things about gardening with roses, some that are general to gardening itself and some specific to roses. Thus, some of my discoveries are general (and I still need to remind myself of them from time to time), and some are rose-related only, hopefully they'll help you too: I have two general rules- First, determine which style of gardener you are, and which type of garden you desire. How much time, energy, tolerance for chemical intervention, and area do you have to work with? (i.e. no HT's or spraying for me thank you!) Next, consider function (and this is where size does matter!) in addition to, and perhaps before, aesthetic concerns. What do you wish to achieve, screening out a bad view, the neighbors? Perhaps a canopy of shade and fragrance for a cool sitting spot in summer. Do you need visual excitement for a boring spot in the yard or a restful oasis after a long day at the office? Perhaps your only requirement is pure and simple delight, which is a noble function in itself. Your garden, your choice. And really only one related to roses (that actually translates to my general gardening philosophy)- Roses look best with contrasting texture, structure, and foliage color. Always plant roses with companions unless used as a specimen.(This rule I never forget.) Smaller, but important lessons I've learned specific to roses: Don't plant roses in double or more rows, unless you like to inflict bodily harm upon yourself, especially if you cannot access the garden from both sides. (Thank you for mentioning this Melissa!) Color coordination can be difficult when you have to base your assumptions on plant tags, internet or catalog photos or hearsay. Be prepared to move things around after they bloom in your own garden. Yes, hoovb - daylilies are probably the most difficult to get right. Luckily they are easy to move. Better them than the rose. Restraint can be a good thing! (She said after viewing her entire garden from a long distance vantage point that made it look like a bad acid trip.) Know when to just go with green. Having said all that, here are some examples from my garden taken just this week. Lots of perennials yet to bloom. A mixed border of contrasting colors and textures - my orange and purple garden, not unlike your "crayola" garden! (Note RdV in the foreground - gotta move, first year, lovely blooms, but WRONG color, not purple folks!)There are 6 roses in this bed Function - framing a view of the pergola (covered with Awakening) with Bubble Bath and KO on a fence Contrasting textures - Rotesmeer with miscanthus Coordinating colors - Autumn Sunset and honeysuckle More color harmonies - Carefree Delight with kniphofia Contrasting colors - Westerland, siberian iris and salvia Love this thread, let's hear more!

Just a word of caution re blue star creeper. See my post, "What's the best way to kill blue star creeper", on Sep. 6. Your photo suggests that bsc would work much better than the scenario we had; i.e., as a lawn replacement. It is beautiful and steppable, but so very invasive. Also, when we started the project, we needed a lot of starter plants (at least, we thought we did, not realizing how fast they spread). So we ordered flats through a local nursery and cut them up to plant, rather than buying a gazillion of those small containers, thereby saving a lot of money. The nursery got the flats from somewhere in Oregon, but they weren't available year round and might not be available now. When we were shopping, we just happened to see some ground covers in the large flats; never realized before that they came that way. They were out of bsc flats at the time, but special ordered for us. You might ask at your local nursery once you decide. Good luck on your selection!