I'm not much of a fan of self watering containers. If the water gets hot the plants seam to die really fast. Some people really like them though so it may be just me. Its easier to care for tomatoes in really large containers. The smaller the container the more often you have to water and fertilize. You picked good varieties for containers though so if you watch them really close you may have good success. When I read the reviews on Bush Goliath it made me wish that I had planted some. Best of luck to you.

Hi harryshoe. I find that heuchera, heucherella and tiarella are really more of a shade tolerant plant rather than a shade loving plant. Very few plants that growers describe as shade loving can take deep, dark shade. For instance, many people will try to grow hostas (which are often described as shade loving plants) underneath their porch or on a dark forest floor only to find that the plants soon waste away to nothing. I grow all of my heuchera and relatives in at least morning sun. The lighter leaved varieties (such as the yellows and lime greens) will need full or dappled afternoon shade or their leaves will burn. The orange and red varieties can take a lot more sun and most of mine can take a full day's sun. The dark leaved ones actually need quite a bit of sun to grow well and are the most sun tolerant of the bunch. I'm I the PNW (WA state) and our weather is often dissimilar to other parts of the country. This usually means that I can grow things in more sun than other people can because it's generally wet and mild here. I'm not sure what your summers are like there in eastern PA, but I'm sure your heuchs would appreciate at least morning sun. You could try them in pots first. That way you could move them around your yard in order to find the spots where they seem happy. A word of warning, though. Heuchs get crown rot if they're too wet, so make sure your pots have great drainage and you only keep the soil damp, not soaked. I never grow my heuchs in pots here because it's too wet and they rot away to nothing in no time. Hope this has helped you. Heucheras are worth growing and are generally an easy plant once they're situated correctly.

I'm finding your older daylilies are my favorites today. Cognizant Dissonant is such a lovely lavender that is showing a bit of applique today. Lounge Lizard is quite a pristine purple and that white edge really makes it pop. Golden Scroll always makes a bright splash in your garden, and that clump of Two Sues is an attention getter too. It looks like Sacco and Vanzettie is doing some mild pinching. Be sure to show any subsequent photos of extreme pleating on that one. Do you really have more than 200 Hansons now? If so, we need to see a lot more photographs. LOL! Debra This post was edited by shive on Sun, Jul 13, 14 at 16:15

I couldn't fit everything in here so click the link below and let us know what survives the hot fence PLANTS SENSITIVE TO BLACK WALNUT TOXICITY Annuals and vegetables: asparagus, cabbage, eggplant, flowering tobacco, pepper, petunia, potato, tomato Herbaceous perennials: autumn crocus, baptisia, columbine, lily (Asian hybrids), peony, rhubarb Shrubs: blueberry, red chokeberry, cotoneaster, Amur honeysuckle, hydrangea, lilac, privet, potentilla, rhododendron, yew, and some viburnum shrub species Trees: European alder, white birch, crabapple species, hackberry, larch, linden, saucer magnolia, mugo pine, red pine, white pine, Norway spruce, silver maple, and some viburnum tree species CONTROL Juglone-sensitive landscape plants should be located away from black walnut trees to avoid damage. Raised beds near trees will help minimize toxicity, but care should be taken to keep leaves, twigs, branches, and nuts out of the bed. Black walnut leaves, bark, and wood chips should not be used as landscape mulch or composted on garden plants. The best alternative is to choose plants from the list below.