about the white fence service, now it will list many but beside them you have to look and see if it indeed says that one is available, for me it was right on, it did list ones that are not but it did say in the list not available over to the side. Mark, just be wary of a 2 year commitment on a service you have not yet tried, I would ask for a trial period prior to signing that kind of contract and find out the terms if it is broken. I would also do some online searches for info on them and see how well they are liked or disliked. I know BBR forum has forums for many various ISP's you could check there to see if there is one for them. http://www.dslreports.com/ Also if you will be using just a modem you would do good to go ahead and get a router to put with that modem so you have a good hardware firewall between you and the modem and the internet. I just won't go with a modem alone these days. and with just a simple google search I found this forum which pretty much says it all LOL BridgeMaxx Sucks here are a couple more blogs and several replies, it appears it is all about location with them and just how close you are to one of their towers and what could be blocking you from the tower. Also have read it is a night mare to get out of the contract so heed that warning. Internet via BridgeMaxx BridgeMaxx Update do some googling it is your fiend in these situations.

The cable company can always boost the signal, but better to run with as few splitters in-line as possible. It's better to run as many lines as possible to ONE main area where they can be split/singled out as necessary. Yes, each two-way splitter divides the signal by 2, but if one of those branches has ANOTHER splitter downline, THAT half of the signal gets divided by 2 AGAIN. Each TV would have a different signal level. It's better to have all the lines run to one main area, then you could use an 8-way splitter for example, after boosting the cable input accordingly.

Hi, LuAnn.....thinking of you this summer..... How are things at your house. I am gonna be a grandma again in Movember. Carol

Couple notes: I've used the T&B Snap N Seal coax connectors with a lot of success. The tool may be more expensive than the Klein one, but it's what all the installers that have worked on our DTV over the years have used. I bought one many years ago, and I think they've at least gotten cheaper. I wouldn't do anything that requires that you have to terminate Ethernet cable into male connectors. This is a pain to do, and pre-terminated patch cables are cheap. Terminating into female Keystone wall jacks is much easier- just maintain the twist of each pair as close to the termination as you can (there are many videos on doing this). I like the impact version of the punch-down tool- not sure if a different version will cut the wires. I bought one of the cheap ones from HD that had bad reviews and it's held up so far- maybe it would be bad if you used it all the time for dozens/hundreds of terminations. We have an old house (built in '49) and I've wired or rewired a big chunk of it. I've also put a lot into improving the insulation and air sealing. For that reason, I would hesitate to use open back wall boxes. I have had great success with retrofit or "old work" boxes- it's so much easier to just cut out an old box (hack saw or reciprocating saw to the nails), reach in to fish new wires, then slip a retrofit box into the hole. I tend to do some combination of a gasket under the wall plate, caulk, and/or expanding foam in the holes in the back of the box. It's great to get it right the first time, but I also wouldn't hesitate to cut a hole in the wall or replace a box to get what I needed later. Lastly, Russ is talking about 120V AC (lights, receptacles, etc) or 240V AC (dryer, oven, e.g.) when he says "HV." I'm used to working with industrial facilities where these are still considered low voltage, and there's 4160V or 12kV that's "medium voltage." High voltage is utility transmission wiring. Good suggestions otherwise.