The reason one window in the bedroom is operable is in order to meet the code requirement for an emergency escape and rescue opening in all bedrooms. I have many times advised homeowners on the GW to not allow a builder to use the cryptic convention of using 60 to mean 72" or 6'-0" on the elevation drawings. (By the way, in my experience, 60 means 72" as silly as that seems) All window sizes should be dimensioned in rough opening feet - inches for the benefit of the framer. All windows should be specified separately for the benefit of the supplier in a Window Schedule that shows the manufacturer, model, rough opening, glass type, color, mullions, hardware, etc. Otherwise you are asking for mistakes. You might ask the GC where the horizontal mullion/sash rail is in the middle of the windows that were ordered for the front of the house. Something stinks; I think someone is making you take responsibility for their unprofessional mistakes. I not only provide clients with window schedules, I insist on reviewing the order before it is submitted which is a tedious and thankless job since all manufacturers use different cryptic conventions for their order sheets. I have never checked an order where there wasn't a mistake and some of them would have been very expensive to correct after delivery. Sometimes a window manufacturer will make a mistake with a correct order but that can be corrected at no cost to the owner. The issue here is documentation. If the correct windows were documented all errors should be corrected at no cost to the owner with no debate. I should also add that in the past 40 years I've known only one GC to order through a lumberyard/box store instead of a wholesale window supplier and the resulting mistakes in that order were the worst I've ever seen.

Oh Cookie, I feel for you. Stetson, our Sheltie took a direct hit from a skunk a few years ago. We were able to treat him almost immediately before bringing him in the house. And we got him groomed the next day. But that scent lingered for months afterwards. Any time he got wet you could still smell skunk. Try using Febreze anywhere the cat went in the house. It is suppose to work great in removing skunk. Also, there is a product that I bought called Liqui-Bac. It was recommended to me for getting the smell out of a rug that one of our cats had peed on. It worked great and didn't damaged the rug. Ann

Hello L. Hathaway. You may not get a response from Kristy. If you click on her name you'll see that she hasn't been active on this forum for quite some time. Someone else may respond, but you're likely to get better results if you start a new thread rather than reviving an old one and posting a comment. Some people ignore old threads. Just a suggestion. Good luck.

In your bedroom, do whatever you like (within reason), if you sleep better with the window cracked, great. For airing out rooms in general, here is my approach (FWIW): for whatever space you wish to air out, open your windows wide for a relatively short period of time (5-10 mins?). If you're doing a room, close that room off to the rest of the house, air out other rooms as you like, but you can do the whole house at once if you want. Why this way? You want to exchange/replace the air as much as possible. Doing it quickly means it's mostly warm air going out - but the thermal mass of everything in the house (furniture, walls, floor, etc) isn't affected as much, and the exchange of heat from air to the thermal mass of the house isn't very fast. (You can test this - even if the air of the room feels chilly immediately after, most of the stuff you touch will feel warm; conversely, if you've ever left a house at a low temperature while away and then turned up the heat, the house can feel chilly for long after the air in the house is warm, because the thermal mass of the house takes much longer to warm up). Leaving a window cracked for a long time just means heat keeps leaking out, including continuously draining heat from the mass of the house. A room aired out quickly feels chilly only for a short period of time - we are sensitive to radiant heat (from objects), and the thermal mass shouldn't cool off much in short exposures to cooler air. Note, I'm referring mostly to cases where it's cold outside - if the temperature is the same in and out, do whatever works for you while keeping in mind humidity. (Honestly I don't spend enough time in air conditioning climates to say how to air out air conditioned spaces). Another warning: I think it's a singularly bad idea to leave windows cracked in basements in warm weather if it's humid outside. Basements tend to be cool, and letting in humid air can lead to condensation and mold. Oh, and there are lots of reasons to do it differently - do what works for you. This works for me.