To answer the original question it isn't your Internet connection (DSL) but rather if you have a wireless router (or you DSL modem has one built in). Then you'll be able to connect with a wireless tablet. Just as a bit of trivia, at one point there was a wireless router that could actually use a dial-up connection. It was designed for business users so that there was a back-up should the broadband connection fail.

Sorry I got here late and I have been scouring the web trying to find out which version of Android it has on it and if it is upgradable. I have finally found it has Android 1.6 and from what I read it is not upgradable, which is a real shame. It will not do much with the 1.6 Android system. It can still be used for many things including reading books. and looking at pictures and listening to music it has quite a bit on it as it comes. You can use a usb or ethernet to it by way of a little adapter it comes with, it takes a mini sd card so you can store your books pics and tunes on there. It has a pretty low resolution so it will not be super sharp. For the price you really can't lose much if you just wanted a basic device for reading and stuff. It does have wifi and you will be able to surf and all of that including email. Where you will have problems is that many many of the apps will not work on that early version, but some do. These are older tablets from probably 2010 that is why they are putting them out there so cheap these days. It is made by pandigital the same company that made the pandigital novel that I have. here is a link to the pdf manual for it you can read more of what it can do. Manual one thing this one has the resistive type touch screen so will be a harder touch for it, you use the tip of the finger or fingernail or us the stylus. the over all reviews I have been reading are not real favorable. In todays market I am recommending Android 2.3 and higher and the higher the better Android 4.0 may be out now I know it was close to ready. So just depends on what you would want to use it for like I said.

For your malwarebytes logs just do what you normally do to run malwarebytes open the program but instead of letting it run look along the top and there are some tabs there one of the tabs says logs if you click that it will show you what it found on your scans that is what you need to copy and pasted over there so we can see what the infections were that malwarebytes found, that will help determine what direction to go and what to look for that could still be hiding. Generally the only ones that will respond to you in that area of LzD will be the pros. As you can see if you look under both Corrine's name and Winchester's you will see that they are both Admin on LzD so you will be in good hands with them. I understand exactly how you feel since you are new there and have no idea who anyone there is. Feel free to ask anything I am happy to help.

There's a lot of things that could cause this. If the battery on the motherboard (or "mainboard" being the politically correct term these days) dies, you lose the CMOS settings and might not be able to read the drives. They need to be set correctly to read it as before. It could be a cable worked loose. Vibration causes this. If you put in a restore disk it will 99% of the time format the drive and reload as it came from the factory meaning any documents on there will be lost. I'd suggest getting it to a competent person. If you have data to be recovered you need someone who knows what they're doing depending on the importance of the data. You might even want to send the drive to someplace that specializes in data recovery. They're expensive so the data should be critical. Otherwise if less critical, an experienced tech might be able to help. For data recovery, especially from someone with less experience, the more you try to access the drive the more trouble you can cause. If you replaced the mainboard with a different one, most likely the restore disks will not work with it. They're tied to the specifications of the unit for which it's designed. You can't make many changes. It checks for the stuff that's supposed to be there and if it doesn't find it, it'll tell you it's not for that machine. If you're paying for the disk(s) you're usually better off to just buy an OEM version of WIndows. And actually, for that cost, these days it's often worthwhile to look at a new machine. Putting a lot of money into an old computer isn't cost-effective when you can buy a new machine for $200-$300! I have a sneaking suspicion I know the answer to this, but, have you backed up your data lately?