Need to feed 50 hungry athletes....help!
phoggie
10 years ago
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YogaLady1948
10 years agoglenda_al
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Can I feed my fish now?
Comments (7)remember, your fish are cold blooded and their bodies are the same temp as the water (the water temp is the only temp that matters). their metabolism slows down considerably and they do not need as many calories. as a general rule don't feed at all below 50 and low to no protein below 60. when their bodies are cold, the bacteria in their gut cools as well and stops funtioning making them unable to digest the protein properly. in japan they sometimes feed their fish boiled rice, or soft vegetables like peeled and cooked peas when the water is cold. even so they do it sparingly as the fish do not need much food and any unused fool will foul the water. personally i do not feed at all from about the beginning of november to the begining of april. i don't take a temperature reading, but watch the fish. when they quit rising to the surface to eat, i quit feeding them. i have some low protein food that i feed them when they are feeding, but the water is colder than water i would consider swimming in. there is plenty of algae and vegetable muck in there for them to snack on if they need a mid-winter snack. in fact, i only feed them a 4-5 times a week in the summer. and don't worry about them if i leave town. they are perfectly capable of finding enough with out me, anything i give them is dessert. i do step up the feeding in september and october to give them a few months to put on some reserves before the long fast. i only have 3 large ranchu (7") in 500 gallons of heavily planted chemical free waterÂthere is plenty of food for them in the form of worms, insects and algae. if i had more fish i would probably need to feed more in the summer than i do now. watch your fish, they will let you know when it is time to eat. if they are gulping and begging at the surface it is ok, just start and end the season with low protein foodsÂthey are labeled as such and available at any pond or pet store....See MoreWhen should I start/stop feeding my fish?
Comments (0)Let's start with a brief explanation of why you should not be feeding your fish during winter. As the water cools in the autumn, the fish start slowing down in preparation for a period of semi-dormancy. Their digestive and immune systems slow down, and they are not capable of digesting the same types of foods that they can during the warmer months. Koi are particularly susceptible to problems at this time, as they have no stomach to aid in digestion; food passes directly into their small intestines, where it will sit and rot. The ensuing intestinal bacteria can pass into their bloodstream, causing sepsis which will debilitate or even kill the immune-suppressed fish. The general rule of thumb is to slow feeding when the water starts to cool into the upper 50s farenheit, feeding small amounts of low protein food a few times a week, and to quit feeding altogether when the water reaches 50. (A thermometer can be purchased for minimal cost and should be suspended in the pond, about 18 inches deep.) If the fish are still hungry, they'll find algae and other natural delights to sustain them, and these simple foods found in the pond will be more easily digested. The above rule, however, applies only to those of us who live in a climate with cold winters. Those living in climates where the water hovers around the 50-55 degree mark have a challenge. As stated, the fish's immune systems are not working up to par at lower temperatures, however, many "bad" bacteria are still active at these temperatures and can create problems in the weakened fish. In these cases, a small quantity of medicated food fed once or twice a week can help the fish withstand the bacterial attack. (Some people also salt their pond at this time as a prevention against parasites that are still active at lower temperatures. There is good information on the Koivet website on salting the pond.) If you feed your fish during this time, be sure to monitor ammonia levels, as the fish will be giving off ammonia in their waste and the bacteria in your biofilter will not be working at these low temperatures. (When testing winter water, always warm the water sample to room temperature before testing.) As the water warms into the fifties in the spring, you can slowly start feeding again. Beware the false spring syndrome! Many people are excited at the prospect of the first warm spring-like days and the increase in fish activity, and begin feeding, only to find the temperatures plunging into the thirtys within days. *BE PATIENT* and wait until you're sure your water temperatures are stable before you begin feeding. Once the water reaches a stable 50 degrees Fahrenheit, it is a good idea to start feeding with a small amount (two or three times a week for no more than three weeks) of medicated food containing Romet or Terramycin, supplemented by low protein, high carbohydrate foods such as wheat germ, cooked squash, brown bread, dark greens (not iceberg lettuce), and fruits high in Vitamin C. As the temps head into the higher 50s, start adding a bit of low-protein pellets to their diet, and increase feedings to four or five times a week if the fish are hungry. As the water heads into the sixties, start increasing the protein in their food. By the time the water is 65-72 F the majority of their food should be a good quality, high-protein food. Avoid foods that contain corn and other plant proteins as primary ingredients; the protein should be from fish or seafood to ensure the fish are getting the proper balance of amino acids that they need to thrive. Fruits, vegetables, shrimp and other live foods can also be given during the warm, active months of the year. Observe your fish closely during spring warm up, as this is when they are most susceptible to bacterial and parasitic invaders. Do NOT overfeed, and be sure to scoop out any uneaten food so it doesn't foul the water. It is best to err on the side of under-feeding and allow your fish to eat the easily digested algae that is often prolific at this time of year, rather than over feed the wrong foods and cause additional stress to your friends as they make the often difficult spring-time transition. Ronaye, Steve and David...See Morecalcium in a foliar feeding mix
Comments (34)"Calcium Nitrate is a good source of calcium and nitrogen in ionic form when dissolved in water and can be applied as a foliar at the rate of 4 TBLS per gallon of water" This is terrible advice for tomatoes and sounds like it could have been taken from some article from a media communitions writer on SF Gate who doesn't know diddly squat about tomatoes. Even for withering leaf tips and margins caused specifically by calcium issues or BER for which there is likely an underlying cause and if there is a problem you don't settle it by running out turning your tomato plants into foie grassed goose liver. Giving more instant nitrogen is likely to hurt yield and makes vines at best. You really need to balance the plants diet better if these sort of calcium problems surface, and if you want calcium just add dolomitic lime ($4 for a 50 pound sack) mix a tablespoon of dolomitic lime crushed with a tablespoon of vinegar, then updiltued into a gallon of water, to the soil right away. To the soil alternately, a beneficial boost of bone meal (in moderation to keep phosphorus in balance) or Tomato-Tone -even better- as soon as you can fertilize next. Adding calcium nitrate as recommended by the quoted part, agree with lindalana, for heaven's sake can be unhealthy and cause more nutrient lockouts. If you go that route, at least use cal-mag 2 tablespoons per gallon maximum, but really less is better since the ratio of calcium and magnesium is more important than calcium itself. At these rates you are looking for trouble and foliar calcium nitrate or even calmag should be the very last resort (meaning almost never). Calcium chloride at a teaspoon per gallon is more effective in a foliar spray if going this route, but use distilled water you can buy from the supermarket for under a buck a gallon to make the spray and if you have high sodium in your irrigation water it wouldn't be recommended either. PC...See MoreNeed advice on feeding my goldfish as the temps drop.
Comments (8)I appreciate all the advice. It has been in the 60s and 50s here, and I'm feeding the goldfish less. If the water in the pool is in the 60's and it is early in the day I toss them a few flakes or a portion of a frozen food cube. On days when the temp is in the 50s, they do indeed seem to be uninterested in food. Now that I am closer to bringing my fish indoors for the winter, I have a new worry, and that is "my" frogs. A few used to hang out in and around the pool, but now there seems to be a single small green frog left. Will this frog know enough to go off and find water with mud to hibernate under once I dismantle the pool? Normally we have a brook about 50 feet from where the goldfish pool is, but because of the drought, it is dry. Should I capture and move my little green friend about an eighth of a mile down the road to a brook that still contains water, or is it better to let the frog find its own way?...See MoreChi
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