They'll all shut down if they get too hot. This is why ventilation is critical. There has to be enough space around the unit inside the cabinet for air to flow. Secondly, I believe the newer units act differently from the units of over 20 yrs ago. The pulsing of the old units was much slower and therefore noticable whereas today the pulsing is very fast. Which now sounds like a 'ticking' or 'clicking', or at higher power a 'whine'. And if your lights are dimming, it's because the service is too small. It is trying to pull more current than the circuit is set for and is dropping the house voltage as a result. The CB doesn't trip because the unit is pulsing and not pulling a steady overload current. That is, a 30-amp breaker doesn't 'break' at 31 amps. It requires an over-amperage for a certian amount of time before tripping.

Hey guys. I was having the same problem last week. My Trane heatpump condenser fan motor failed. I went out and got a Dayton motor from WW Granger. It was a 4 wire motor and my orig. GE motor was three wire. so I installed it by taping off the brown wire with white stripe and hooking up the other three. (This is a commonly used method of using a four wire in a thee wire pump.) Also replaced the split capacitor with a new one. After the fan ran for 15~20 minutes it would overheat and shut down. Like you I ran the water hose over the unit to let it drip and it would run forever... I checked all the voltages, etc. and voltage drop accross the contactor and everything was fine. The fan started fine but still overheated. FINALLY, I installed a seperate fan capacitor, 5 ufarrid @ 370v, on the advice of a tech support guy at Granger. VIOLLA! Dont ask me why but now the fan runs at about 35 deg.C in the air stream and stays there. If anyone has a theory about why this worked please let me know. If you want a wiring diagram on how this worked email me @kidshows@gmail.com and Ill scan it into a pdf for you. You have to make a jumper wire. (I used the wire off my old GE motor and just added another spade connector to match the capacitor). Hope this helps you out. Im in Dallas and its already close to 100 deg. and the unit is running full bore with the best cold air I had in months. God Bless and take care. Mark

Jae_tn2, I had a similar experience. Had a guy recommended by someone at church; supposedly he was helping young people get job skills and stay off the streets by employing them to work with him. Not only did he do shoddy work, and found ways to jack up the bill, but I discovered my wedding band was gone after they were done -- but had no evidence to link him or his helper to the theft that the police could use. Perhaps also true of the person who advertised, I was at the time rather naïve and thought I would be more likely to get someone with integrity through the church connection. Now I think I'm unlikely to get someone with integrity and appropriate skills no matter if religious or atheist or agnostic.

All lenders are required to provide you a loan estimate (LE) prior to you signing a commitment to accept the loan as of Oct 3, 2015. The LE must be provided to you within 3 business days of you providing the following 6 pieces of information below. Whether or not you filled out a loan application is immaterial to the provision of the LE according to the CFPB. Consumer’s Name. Monthly Income. Social Security Number. The Property Address. An Estimate of the Value of the Property. The Loan Amount. I would think you have provided all of the above to get the info you have received. The LE is so you can compare the loans offered by different lenders in the same format so the comparisons are easy and accurate. Point out that they are required to give you the LE without a prior commitment to accept the loan and if the person you are working with doesn't understand that - then I would make a wide berth of that individual and probably that lender as it shows a total lack of training. 45 day locks are common. Even a 60 day lock is possible. Check into their lock periods and the associated cost, if any.