I used to grow these. If you give them more light (natural or fluorescent), they'll grow a bit shorter, and therefore, sturdier and balanced. Otherwise, they'll grow tall and have a tendency to tip over. After they bloom, cut off the bloom stalk, and allow the foliage to grow. For this, steady and regulated light is necessary, whether inside or outside. If you want blooms at Christmas, you would force a dormancy by withholding water, starting around the second week in August. You would place the pot in a dark, cool basement or a garage that doesn't freeze, and you would allow it about a 10-12 week rest. Some people will tip the pot on its side so they remember not to water. Once the leaves have died back, they can be removed. After the 10-12 weeks, check the bulb ... there may some bud growth at this point. In any case, bring it back into a warm, bright room and water it. You should see growth begin shortly. The natural bloom cycle of a Hippeastrum takes place in spring, so if you choose not to force a dormancy, you can grow your bulb like a houseplant, giving it as much light as possible, and feeding and watering as it requires. With good care, your bulb should bloom in spring. It may not bloom the first spring following purchase, but if conditions are right, the following spring should bring blooms. Then replant in refreshed soil, and the bulb should bloom in about 12 weeks. PS. Keep a plant pest spray on hand for the fungus gnats. This post was edited by aegis500 on Mon, Nov 24, 14 at 18:20

Heck, as long as he can afford it, why not? I was talking to my ex-boss, now one of the regional Senior Execs (used to be called Office Managing Partners when I was there), and he told me he was so dissatisfied with the service he was getting since US Trust was taken over by BofA, he had pulled $500K out from his portfolio (fortunately before the market took a dive) and it was now just sitting in his savings account. LOL! He's a car addict, too, and also drives every exotic auto you can think of in a local car club. But personally he's faithful to his 9-yr old Porsche 911, which he bought for his 40th birthday and has loved ever since. His wife, a more sensible woman who has to drive the kids around to and from school, prefers the Acura MDX. OTOH, I was pleasantly surprised that they didn't succumb to the McMansion craze, and are still living in the same modest three bedroom house they were twenty years ago. If I was in TGG's place, I'd definitely prefer buying the Bentley to a Porsche. At the very least, it carries four people a lot more comfortably, hehehe.

Call Wolf's customer service in the morning -- they are great and will know how the range shipped and should have been installer. I'm wondering if some packing material was left inside and burned, but it also sounds like you may not have gone through the cleaning you need to do first. My oven had directions to wipe down all the interior surfaces before turning it on an then doing an initial burn off. I can't think of anything like what you described inside though.

Hi Bernard, I hope I don't repeat something because I only got about halfway through this thread before I got sick of reading and decided to go ahead and post. #1. I don't know where the idea come from that calloused roots are good. Callouses can't absorb water. It's dry scar tissue that keeps in/out moisture, thereby protecting broken stems and so on. When a plant's roots are partially exposed by wildlife digging, etc., the exposed portion callouses to keep the plant from dehydrating, but that calloused portion will never absorb water again. We don't want roots to callous (except maybe Bonsai growers who like to expose some roots over a rock or something). Putting a root system into dry mix is never good for it. I challenge anyone to prove how dehydrating or callousing a root system can possibly be good for it. The previous poster who said the dry mix will dehydrate the plant is correct. Always use damp mix for re-potting a healthy root system. If the roots are dead, it might be a different story. #2. As you've already learned, it's easy to under-water gritty mix. Since it's pretty close to impossible to over-water grit, I'm with the posters who say to soak it deeply and often. If you're paranoid, soak it daily, or even twice daily, but then give the pot a quick, little down-up motion to dislodge any perched water. That way it'll always be just barely moist. If it were mine, and planted in grit, I'd just water every day or two until the roots are well-established. As one who has killed off whole, healthy root systems by under-watering grit (once weekly), I feel confident in telling you that you're extremely unlikely to drown a plant in grit. I'm watering my succulents daily right now, and some are STILL too dry. BTW, Danny, I think mentioned he prefers soil for jades. I don't disagree with him. The one I have in soil has grown much better than the ones I have in grit. Furthermore, the Aeonium I had in a 1:1 soil:pumice mix has a huge, beautiful, healthy root system. The big one in grit has puny roots. These aren't experiments with standardized variables, so something else might be going on, but for now, I'm also not certain that grit is always a better medium.