Also would work is to have fogger on thermostat and vent on humidistat (though it's less obvious why). generally plants in a closed environment will quite quickly saturate the air, so it is better to vent when you get too close to 100%. Foggers are quite effective at cooling as long as the air isn't saturated - but you made sure it isn't saturated using the vent. Part of the magic is that your system then balances based on the thermodynamic state of the greenhouse, rather than trying to correct the symptoms.

I have a lifebreath HRV system and radiant infloor heating. At 5400 ft. in the Montana Rockies, we really don't need AC, especially with high ceilings in the main rooms. But I have dogs, and I hate walking into a house and being able to smell the pets, smell last nights broccoli stir fry. We are a low humidity environment, but my current home gets stuffy when we have people over, and even running the dryer will cause condensation on the windows. So I'm a big believer in good air quality, and thought an HRV was a good investment. Can't say exactly what it cost since the ducting etc. was rolled in the heating and plumbing contract. Not in the house yet, can't answer how effective the system will be. It does dehumidify, and you can adjust it on the unit or add a humidity sensor to any fan control location. The moisture it collects is dumped into the plumbing. My only complaint is that the air inlet is a bit noisey, due in part to an 'echo-y' location. I think I can address that with different vent covers. I plan a soft wall hanging in the area, too, just to soak up some sound. It ties all the bath vents into the same system, runs at low speed constantly, speeds up when a fan button is pushed in any bath or laundry. Main air pickup is in the kitchen-- main meaning it's dialed open a bit farther; the ducts are all interconnected. The fresh air comes into an upstairs hall of a very open floor plan, where it has to travel through essentially all the public spaces before reaching an 'out' again. I do have a bit of a hint that it's going to be a good thing, though: we've been painting and staining, both with and without the air running. The odors seem much less noticeable when the air is on...

I use compressed air to winterize our irrigation system. I can't imagine how a 'blower' would do an adequate job. Every fall, I disconnect the water supply and remove the zone valves (we freeze here in the winter). One end of a 1/2" drip line ends near our garage so I have made hose jumpers that I install between my compressed air supply and this drip line, and between the zone feed lines at the control valve box. I drop my compressed air supply to 30 psi and let it blow out the system for at least 20minutes, then disconnect the jumper hoses and store them for next year.

Hi Rick, Thank you for your comment! You are correct; rotation sensing isn't something we have implemented at the moment. I can think of a couple of ways that we can accomodate a setup like this, for instance using a magnet mounted on the rotating part. This magnet triggers a sensor every time it passes by, resetting a user defined counter. This way we can simply trigger an alarm that goes off when the counter runs out. Out of interest, can you please provide me with some more information (or even pictures) of your volksgarden? I am really curious about the exact setup as i haven't encountered a rotating growing setup in real life yet. I will consult with the hardware developer to see if we can build a test setup sometime and see if this works as i imagine. We won't be able to implement it right away, but i think this is a really nice feature to implement as soon as we have the chance, as there are indeed no other systems that offer this function.