Follow-up: 1. The compressor cycled to 120 psi at least 4 times in the open "cold" garage w/o a smell. 2. I could hold or touch the cyls and head through all cycles, less at the head and no at transfer tube. 3. The transfer tube moving air from head to manifold to tank was hot quick with a fitting leaking slow moisture. The potential smell due to moisture w oil vapor on hot manifold/pipe. Naturally I cleaned the signs of moisture/oil at manifold and dust/grime on top of cyls head. Tightening the compression fitting will be another day since a snugging w/n work and the seep is so small. 4. The original 1972 serpentine belt is bouncing/deteriorating and needs changing soon. 5. The moisture reservoir needs a larger valve/hose due to restricting oil in 1/2 cup of moisture. Too many tools to maintain keeps you working and behind at times!!!

I don't think you have enough CFM thru your compressor. I put in a sprinkler system in my last house (no time here yet), and put a low pressure drain in each zone at the lowest point. I also put a valve for a compressor, but the drains did the trick and never had to worry about them other than shutting off the water supply and opening the valves so the water could go to the lowest point. I would say to turn off the water and open 1 valve, blast the air and see if any water came out. Close that one and open another, repeat. If your not getting anything and worried, borrow a larger compressor and blast it. If your really worried, pull a valve and see if water runs out (only if they are burried, if above ground disregard). For some reason, a lot of people have the valves really low and water sits there. If that is the case, and you pull a valve all the water will run out of the line. There are many things you can do, just depends on how much time your willing to devote. These are the most simple, good luck. Jeff

Your current AC condenser uses R22. The new refrigerant is R410a. The refrigerants you listed are not used in residential HVAC systems. I think continuing with a R22 system is a waste of money. You are paying a lot of money just for the refrigerant. If you want to keep the current air handler then you should be able to change the indoor coil and the condenser. If the lineset is relatively easy to change, I would change that also. I you are planning to live in this house another 10 years then I would also recommend changing the air handler. You will eventually spend money on either repairing or replacing it. If the funds are available then do it now and get the maximum efficiency out of it. Electricity prices on Long Island are high. You will see a pay back on spending the extra money for better efficiency.

I want to thank everyone for their help and very good input. My awesome HVAC team put in an EZ Trap hooked up to kill the unit if the trap fails and a regular trap on the secondary. Since then the pan was dry but now a month after the install, there is a little water in the pan. I think it's from condensation with water dripping off the unit where the blower pumps the air into the main ducts. When I feel under there, I can feel droplets of water and these seem to be slowly dripping into the pan. The pan only has a 2 mm of water in it. This is the maximum amount of water in the pan and always in the same place and I've been checking every 4 hours.Is this a small amount of condensation dripping a big deal or something to be expected with an attic HVAC install? Is there anything I can do about it? Is there anything wrong with my unit? Please see photos below. Here is a link that might be useful: Small Amount of Water in Pan after traps installed