I agree, it will be fine. As Ann T mentioned, if it's cold from the fridge, it'll take a bit longer, but other than that it's fine. I do it regularly. Well, not really, I make the meatloaf and let Ashley take it to Kevin's to bake it, LOL, but it sits in the refrigerator all day until he gets out of work. She has learned that you have to have baked potatoes or roasted vegetables with meat loaf too, because the oven's on and you don't want to "waste" that heat/space. (grin) Annie

thank you josie...I am so glad you are having fun with all of this baking ! mama...this is what is called a preferment. You make a small amount of yeasted dough and let it mature overnight and then make the main dough w/o yeaast and add this preferment to it. There are lots of different preferments...poolish,biga,barm,starter. They are all with a small amount of yeast. Then you have sourdough...and wild yeast...if you want a good beginner bread recipe then try what josie made. It is very easy to use if you aren't afraid of very wet dough and also HOT pots. Let me know if I can help....c

Joanie, oven heating elements have always cycled on and off to maintain heat, so I don't think that is new. But I do agree that how they do it can create problems. In a former home, we paid to upgrade the builder's standard (above average) appliances. We got a gas cooktop and a DW we loved, but as excited as I was about the Whirlpool double ovens (my first DO), they were awful. The tops of everything burned quickly with the rest uncooked. The broiling element was coming on to maintain the heat setting and everything was broiling. I had a tech come out and test it, spent a long time on the phone and said he couldn't believe that the Whirlpool folks said that was how it was designed to work. I resorted to placong my pizza stone on the top rack to protect my baking. I need to replace my oven -- or maybe see if it can be repaired after reading this. I have Wolf DO now. I've has several service calls, but I do like the way they cook. If I replace, I will probably go with Wolf again.

Any time you are saving seeds of hybrids, if you have not isolated them from other squash plants (even wild cucurbits like the ones that grow here), they could be cross-pollinated by anything growing within whatever distance bees and other pollinators fly. Genetically, your Yokohama x Seminole squash seeds from this year's accidentally-created hybrid plants (from last year's cross-pollination) could give you anything because it is likely that your new hybrid (let's call it Yokominole, lol) is not yet stable. This instability means that saved seeds from this year's fruit could give you anything. You might get plants next year that produce fruit just like this year's plants. That would be just about the best-case scenario as it would indicate some genetic stability already. Or you might not. You might get even better fruit next year. You might get worse fruits. It just depends on how the genetics of the two combine. What you normally have to do when you get a cross-pollinated plant that is, in essence, its own hybrid, is that you will have to grow out multiple generations, always selecting for the qualities you want to perpetuate, until you get a seed that reliably gives you more or less identical plants every year. I don't know how long it takes to stabilize anything in the cucurbit family, but in the tomato family it can take as long as 7 or more generations, though sometimes it takes less. Let's say that the plants you grew this year, which resulted from a natural cross between your Yokohama and your Seminole, are the F-1 generation of your Yokominole. When you save seeds from the F-1 generation this year, and plant them next year, the plants they produce will be your F-2 generation. If you see a lot of stability in next year's F-2 line and fruit, that will be a really good sign that your Yokominole may be easy to stabilize. But, you still will need to grow several more generations before you can be sure it is stabilized. To protect whatever stability your Yokominole already has now, you should label each year's seeds with whatever generation it is: F-1, F-2, F-3 etc. as well as the date of the year in which it was saved. Then, never plant all of one generation's seeds in one year. That way, if a subsequent year's generation expresses instability and expresses genetic characteristics you don't like, you still have some seeds left from the previous generation that presumably had genetic characteristics you liked. You then can go back and sow some of the seeds from the previous generation to see if you get the plants and fruit you want. Sometimes growing out saved seeds from a cross will give you exactly what you want in future generations, and sometimes you have to do a delicate dance of 'one step forward, two steps back' while you weed out the plants that don't produce good fruit or show vigor while at the same time saving seeds from the ones that do. That's how you improve a cross and stabilize it. The only way to keep your squash plants from being accidentally pollinated by any random squash within a mile or two (the distance is an exaggeration, but you get the idea) of you that the bees might have visited, would be to bag the blossoms before they open, then open the bag and hand pollinate, and then close the bag or tape the flower shut, to ensure your flowers were pollinated only from the plants you want pollinating them. I think that for most winter squash an isolation distance of about 1/4 mile is adequate. Having said that, I know there are native squashes right here on our own property that could cross-pollinate my winter squash, although I don't believe they ever have. I generally remove those native squash plants on our property when I see them if I have garden squash plants in bloom. To be sure that yours aren't accidentally cross-pollinated, you'd need to get lucky and not have any native cucurbits growing within 1/4 miles of you in any direction, and also you'd need to have neighbors who aren't growing winter squash within 1/4 miles of yours and in bloom at the same time. Of course, maybe you have native pollinators who are perfectly happy with the plants at your place and don't venture far and don't bring back a lot of other pollen from other areas, but there's no way to be sure of that.