It's not that simple Roberta. Many breeds are not built for the cold, and so do fare worse than others. And remember, domestic chickens derived from a tropical or semitropical species, the red jungle fowl. It'a an amazing feat of human ingenuity that we've been able to develop breeds from that species which are able to do well in the cold, but not all of them are as comfortable in winter. Ginam, do a search for chicken or bird enrichment, and I'm sure that you'll get all sorts of suggestions. The bird seed block is a great idea. Try also hay flakes spread on the coop floor, with or without treats strewn inside, evergreen boughs scattered on the floor or hanging from the ceiling, good leafy green hay such as alfalpha in a hay rack on the wall for them to pick at, a head of cabbage suspended from the ceiling, plain or with holes drilled for treats or mealworms, plenty of hiding places, hay bale barriers work great. Whatever you do, you need to change enrichment ideas frequently, to prevent them from becoming bored with just one, and have it become just another part of the daily routine. The most important thing to do to prevent picking is to provide ample space, not adequate as described in a square footage per bird in most books, but ample, in as much as possible. Good luck.

Good morning Joe and Martin. Joe things have finally started drying out and warming up. As soon as your tree wakes up, just to make sure it does, I'll get it in the mail to you. Have you done any fishing yet. I'm a little late in starting but hope to get in at least a trip a week for the next few. Martin, yes I plan to put a few of them in the ground this year. I'm trying to decide which ones. I know a Martin's Unknown is going in for sure. I think I'll also put in one of the two Richard's Unknown which are suppose to be ever bearing. I have room for about 10 if I keep them properly pruned. I own some property down in the country that I might plant some of my extras at. They will be in danger of flooding if a hurricane comes our way so I'll will only plant those of which I have extras. Some will go to friends and some I'll try to make a deal with people to let me plant them a tree and have the right to visit it during fig season. I will keep some in pots for this year at least while I decide what to do with them. I'm hoping to buy some property to plant them on. "gene"

Hey Judo.....We start the hot peppers on Thanksgiving Day...... Tomatos on Christmas Day........by January we'll have a bunch of plants under lights........We HOPE for a March 1 "protected" plant-out Good-Luck dougandpam There is a moving light source on top under the rafters....two 350 watt equivalent CFL's and two "100" watt CFL's and 4-32 watt four foot FL over the seed starting shelf...Mid-Jan 2013

Starting your own plants from seed is one of the most rewarding gardening experiences, it can also save you a small fortune! Also, many species and varieties are simply unavailable unless you "grow-your-own". Choosing seeds is the first step, there are many reputable companies that offer catalogs, besides the fun of browsing through them, mail-order companies are generally good about dealing with any problems you might have. In buying seeds through retail outlets,it's a matter of "buyer beware" ,those 10/$1 seeds may not be such a bargain if they don't grow! Check the package for date,and complete growing instructions,a reputable seed company will also list the Latin name and germination percentage you can expect.If you've acquired seeds from GardenWeb swaps,or other seed sources ,ask for any info the grower can give! You can use most any container,as long as it will hold 3-4 " of growing medium and has drainage holes in the bottom. Flats with liners are nice,but "recycled" containers will do, if you're reusing containers, follow the cleaning instructions under "what is damping-off?". Seeds need a loose,porous,fine-textured medium, one that won't develop a "crust" on the surface that can interfere with emergence . "Potting soil" is an extremely variable product, many retail brands (especially the "bargain" types)will give disappointing results in seed-starting! A "soil-less" mix will make your growing experience much easier. Some common ingredients in soil-less mixes: Vermiculite, a heat-expanded rock, can be used alone or in combination for starting seeds. Milled sphagnum moss (NOT the same as peat moss unless it says"sphagnum peat")has the benefit of inhibiting damp-off fungus, mixed with vermiculite it is frequently used by professionals. Peat moss(sometimes called "Michigan peat" or "peat humus")a heavier,more difficult to wet and more variable product than sphagnum moss ,is common in retail mixes sold for starting seeds,often in combination with perlite or vermiculite,it's often(much!) cheaper than sphagnum-containing mixes but can be more difficult to handle,especially for the beginner. Don't start seeds too early,there's a wide variation in optimal indoor starting times,and unless you have lots of room,starting too early can be stressful,for you and your plants! You may want to consider starting perennials in summer for Fall planting,as many perennials don't bloom the first summer,to save room for annuals and veggies that really need a head start in temperate climates. Sowing seeds: Fill containers,allowing an inch or so from the top for easier watering, and moisten well. Allow excess water to drain, medium should be moist,not soggy. Press the medium down lightly to eliminate air pockets. For plants that don't mind ,or even benefit from transplanting, like tomatoes and lettuce,a number of seeds can be planted in larger containers and transplanted to individual pots when seedlings are large enough to handle. For those that dislike transplanting ,such as melons,or to save yourself time later on,plant 1-3 seeds in individual containers,snip off all but the strongest seedling with scissors. Sow the seeds on the surface,and cover with additional dry medium to the proper depth, a general rule is twice the diameter of the seed.Very tiny seeds,or those requiring light are surface-sown without covering. Mist the medium well and cover with clear plastic , a 13-gallon clear kitchen trash bag fits a standard flat perfectly(I buy the kind with the handles and tie them loosely)Don't put an enclosed container like this in direct sunlight!! A temperature of 65-75 degrees is suitable for the vast majority of common plants,but there are many exceptions,too many to list here! Check at least daily,and remove the plastic when seeds begin to sprout. Place under bright light ASAP! Seedlings need intense light to grow strong and stocky,fluorescent lights are your best bet (see "do I need special lights?") Position so that seedlings are 2-4" from lights, 14-16 hours a day. A timer will help automate the process. If space under lights is limited,you can try rotating them under lights in 12-hour shifts. Keep a close eye on them and adjust heights as needed. Containers enclosed in plastic should not require watering until seeds germinate,once plastic is removed monitor closely,seedlings should never be allowed to dry out completely,and should be kept moist until roots begin to penetrate the medium. Allow the medium to become dry 1/4-1/2" down before watering thereafter,to allow air into the medium and encourage roots to spread. If you've used a soilless mix, begin fertilizing 4-5 days after germination with a water-soluble 15-30-15(or similar ) fertilizer at half the recommended strength,and weekly thereafter. I've had good results with fish emulsion and seaweed extract at recommended rates,for those interested in growing organically. For growing on info see"OK my seeds are growing...?"