J0nd03- that ft.mcnair is a beautiful tree. Ill have to see what the specs are on it as far as tolerances/preferences. Tornado- no offense taken at all, I'm quite long winded myself (I am a car salesman!) and I love taking politics but unfortunately from what I have learned (perhaps its the area we live in?) most discussions about politics/govt matters turn into a pissing contest/yelling match because when someone has a differeing view than I yet cannot support their claims/reasons for their beliefs they get defensive and resort to un civilized behavior. I think it's hilarious but sure you have experenced it as well! ;) I really appreciate the info your giving me. From what I have read/picked up from folks (a good friend of mine is a horticulture major/landscape business owner) these beech trees will maintain their vibrant foliage as long as they are kept hydrated. I'm site the tree in your pics gets pruned/pest control done professionally and regularly but I'm not sure about the watering part too much?

Is it yellowing, or just sporadic blades that are a pale green? Both the last two years, I've had random blades, or small clumps of blades, that were pale green. I tried a little extra SMB, and they darkened to a nice deep green over a couple months. I'm not entirely sure if it was the SBM that cured them though, as they didn't darken as fast as my lawn normally does after an application of SBM. So I, too, suspected an iron deficiency, but it is so sporadic, I'm not convinced of that, either. I had thought about trying greensand last year, and after reading the above posts, think I will this weekend. I'll keep y'all posted.

Waste..... Foaming the walls is a waste. Go to any green building forum and it is almost universally felt that foaming walls is a waste of money. The foam salesmen are about the only ones that disagree. In my east facing house with 2x4 fiberglass batts, the walls and attic only account for 20% of total heat gain (energy audit). You are going to spend $10k to make that 20% come down to 15%. I have a similar size house in NC and I spent about $20k on Carrier Infinity 15/16 with heat pumps and 90% NG furnace and zoning and humidifier. So I think the $36k is absolutely crap. But $11k is a bit ridiculous also given the specs. In fact- I just can't believe it. Manual J is required in NC by code - so I don't know what to tell you. It is standard around here for quotes/bids. Oversizing sucks. 2 stage helps compensate. An is an air quality thing more than anything else. It is rarely cost effective. Texas is big - what is your area and ideally what is your HDD and CDD? Here is what I would do - presuming you live in a 90% cooling area. - Build with 2x4s and sheath the house in 1 inch rigid foam. If it really hot, you could go to 2 inches of foam. - Focus on minimizing East and West windows. If you can't - then really focus on low SHGC windows. All windows are low-e nowadays but SHGCs vary considerably - there are basic windows at .2 and .45 - a rather huge difference. Overhang the windows as much as you can tolerate. Big deep porches. Do those things and you should be able to get down to 2 2ton units which you should be able to get for $10k for seer 15 or 16. Most people don't find it worthwhile to get seer 18 equipment. Usually with new construction, you can spend that $5k (or whatever) on shell improvements (windows, overhangs) and get a better permanent ROI. There is no disagreement anywhere that 2inches of rigid foam on a 2x4 wall filled with blown cellulose outperforms a 2x6 wall with spray foam (and does so at a lower cost). Lastly - why an unvented attic? Because the ductwork is there? The best practice is to get the ductwork out of the attic in the first place. It is cheaper and far more cost effective. My personal house (4000+basement) would cost $10k to spray foam the attic at a estimated annual savings of.... $70. How about that ROI....

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