PART 1 - PRODUCTS 1.1 COLORED MORTAR A. Cement Color: [Gray.] [White.] B. Sand Color: [Locally available natural sand.] [White.] C. Mortar Colors: 1. Product: Davis Colors, True Tone [Sweet 16] [Select Series] Cement Colors. a. Phone: 800-356-4848. b. E-mail: info@daviscolors.com c. Web Site: www.daviscolors.com. 2. Substitutions: [Comply with [Instructions to Bidders] [Division 01 Section “Product Requirements”] for substitution request procedures.] [Not Allowed.] 3. Materials: Mortar colors shall contain pure, concentrated mineral pigments especially processed for mixing into mortar and complying with ASTM C979. 4. Color: Provide color to be selected by [Architect] from manufacturer's standard colors. 5. Color: Provide True Tone [Color No.] at a dose rate of [___Lbs] per sack of cement or lime. 6. Color: Match [existing building.] [[Architect’s] sample.] 1.2 ACCESSORIES A. Joint Sealants: Provide [type specified in Division 07 Section "Joint Sealants"]. Sealant shall [be color selected by [Architect] from manufacturer's full range to] match mortar color. B. Cleaning Agents: Use products known to be compatible with colored mortar. 1.3 MORTAR MIXES A. Mortar Color: Mix in accordance with manufacturer's instructions. 1. Thoroughly mix using mechanical mixer. 2. Sand shall be uniformly damp immediately before mixing. 3. Mix until color additives are uniformly dispersed throughout mixture. B. Provide a consistent water-cement ratio. Do not retemper or add additional water to colored mortar. PART 2 - EXECUTION 2.1 INSTALLATION A. Use careful workmanship to minimize mortar splatters and smears on face of masonry. B. Colored Mortar: Tool mortar joints at same degree of hardness and moisture content. C. Cover tops of walls to prevent water penetration into wall during construction. 2.2 TOLERANCES A. Minor variations in appearance of colored mortar that are similar to natural variations in appearance of uncolored mortar are acceptable. 2.3 CLEANING A. Use least aggressive cleaning techniques possible. Verify cleaning procedure is consistent with recommendations of masonry unit and color manufacturers. B. Excess Colored Mortar: 1. Let colored mortar splatters harden for 7 to 14 days, then remove with chisel, trowel, or stiff brush and water before splatters bond rigidly to masonry. 2. Prior to further cleaning, allow masonry to continue curing for at least three weeks in summer or four weeks in winter. C. If proprietary cleaning agents are used, pre-wet wall, test cleaning agent on [mock-up] [a small, inconspicuous area], and check effects prior to proceeding. Begin cleaning at top and work down. Thoroughly rinse wall afterwards with clean water. Follow cleaner manufacturer's instructions. D. Do not use muriatic (hydrochloric) acid on colored mortar. E. Efflorescence: Remove efflorescence [as soon as practical after it appears] [and] [as part of final cleaning of building].

jt...that is a worrisome description you give of your friend. The combination of eating the french fries and then describing how thin she is and the condition of her teeth leads me to think that she is purging by vomiting, known as bulimia.The stomach acids eat away the enamel on the teeth. It is very very common. I ran with a friend that did it. I finally confronted him after hearing him in the bathroom. We would eat lunch and he would have all of this stuff that one wouldn't think a runner would eat. Then he would always have a reason for going to the bathroom. i followed him and listened. So sad. He also would stop by the trail to supposedly urinate but he was actually vomiting the snacks/lunch we had eaten. He was able to finally get it under control. As an aside he is a clinical psychologist Phd. My DD had a friend in high school who also purged. Her Mom found glass jars of vomit in the girl's closet. Really really sad. The Mom is an MD and did seek help but it was very hard for this gal to accept help. She had to go away to a facility in order to get well. The disorder is extremely addicting and consequently very hard to get over. Here is a link. c Here is a link that might be useful: bulimia and famous people

Hi OJ. You men have it easy. Hubby's jeans all fit him, no matter the make. He doesn't try them on, he knows that they will fit. But we woman go crazy trying to find the right fit in whatever size. We can have 2 different sizes and they both might fit. We were in a store looking at some yoga pants. Simple yoga pants (track pants type pant). He held up the waist of 2 the same size. One was a good inch or two wider than the other. Geesh. This post was edited by jasdip on Wed, Apr 10, 13 at 19:58

First, there is no St Augustine seed, so you can't do that. Second, once the sprinkler system goes, you have to buy a hose or two and a sprinkler. I recommend the turbo style oscillator sprinklers because they apply the most even pattern and coverage along with a very slow application so the water can sink in. I have a house now where I turned off the automatic system and use only oscillator hoses. They cover the area much better than the center-throw pop-up heads. St Augustine is pretty easy to grow once you figure out how to water it. Like every other grass out there, it needs to be watered deeply and infrequently. Deeply means 1 full inch every time you water. If it rains 1/2 inch, then you need to add another 1/2 inch. Infrequently means no more than once per week in the hottest heat of summer and less often when the weather is cooler. With temps in the 80s, you should go up to 2 weeks between deep watering. Most people in Florida seem to want to water a few minutes every day. That process develops grass with very short roots. Short roots are intolerant of drought, so if you miss a couple days of watering, or if one of your sprinklers clogs or breaks and you don't notice it, you could lose a lot of your lawn. But if you are deep watering on an infrequent basis, the roots will develop deeper down into the soil/sand and be much more tolerant of head and drought. Also weed seeds practically rely on daily watering to germinate. When you deny the water from the weed seeds, they will not germinate and develop into plants. So you can almost eliminate new weeds without any preemergent or other herbicides simply by controlling your watering. Mowing Always mow St Augustine at your mower's highest setting. There is never any reason to lower the deck. Tall St Aug provides shade to other plants, grasses, and weeds that might be trying to grow. Dense St Augustine will be the dominant plant in your yard. Fertilizing With your sand I strongly urge you to use nothing but organic fertilizers on the lawn. These will build the organic matter in your soil rather than deplete it like chemical fertilizers. Organic fertilizers feed real food to the microbes living in the ground. Those are the organic matter that matter. My preference for organic fertilizer is either alfalfa pellets (Rabbit Chow) or ground corn meal. Corn is very inexpensive this year...at least in my neighborhood. Corn is also relatively low in protein, so I tend to use it fairly heavy at 20 to 25 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Alfalfa pellets can be used at 20 pounds per 1,000. Call your local feed store to get prices for a 50-pound bag. Be sure they understand you want alfalfa pellets and not bales of alfalfa hay. And be sure they know you want corn meal and not corn GLUTEN meal and not deer corn. I start fertilizing with organics about now then repeat on Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. If you do those three things, and note that you were going to mow and water anyway, the only cost is for the fertilizer. You should have minimal weeds. Now...how do you get St Augustine reestablished in the yard. Since you don't have money then you must have patience. If you can afford to buy a few pieces of sod, you can reestablish the lawn in a couple of seasons. Most recently I've used Floratam, but you have to use what you can get locally. I like Floratam because it seems to grow faster than disease spreads. It is a dense turf that loves full sun. Prepare the ground by clearing out anything that's growing and place the sod down. Start watering it lightly at breakfast, lunch, and dinner time every day for 2-3 weeks until the roots have grown down into the soil underneath. Once that happens you can start to water longer and less often. You're trying to develop those deeper roots. You don't have to water the weeds at all, so a hose and hand sprayer is fine for now. When the temps are between 65 and 85, St Augustine spreads and spreads. In my neighborhood that happens in the spring and again in the fall. I get about 5 feet of runners each time for a total of 10 feet of spreading per season. Your mileage will vary. Back on the topic of mowing, I have a house where I mow it with a string trimmer down to 12 inches high. When it gets up to 16 inches or so I cut it back down. If I had a push or riding mower that would mow that high I would keep it at 12 inches. That's not great for playing in but it looks perfectly manicured, uses almost no water, and seems to need much less fertilizer to stay dark green. Also, since it's so tall and never gets anything but rainwater, there are no weeds or disease. I'm not necessarily suggesting that for you, but I am suggesting that if you were going to neglect something, neglect mowing and let the grass get much taller.