Pot Filler with Viking Stainless BS- Help Pls
gkrizel
10 years ago
We are in the middle of our kitchen renovation and I need your advice.
I already own a 36 Viking range, Hood and Stainless Backsplash. Essentially this set up- however this is not my kitchen pic. As part of the remodel I wanted to add a pot filler but don't know how to do that and keep my existing stainless BS.
My thoughts so far are
- get rid of the stainless BS do a tile BS instead
-do a counter or side mounted pot filler
- find someone to cut a hole in my ss bs - but if I do that I am still not positive how to accommodate the pot filler as the back guard actually attaches to the range and not the wall. How do I deal with the space between? Would I have to tweek the filler fixture?
Anyone out there have the viking back guard/splash with shelf and had similar design dilemma? Pictures of your solutions or similar set ups are appreciated
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Comments (10)
Mags438
10 years ago
cookncarpenter
10 years agoRelated Discussions
36" BS rangetop with cabinets pulled out 3"
Comments (20)>>>"So the 6" clearance is only for the back? I thought it might include the side since the gas flames are close to the counter tops. So if I need to put nonflammable material 6" below rangetop on the back wall, why don't I need to put 6" on the sides of the base cabinet next to the rangetop. "No. It applies to any vertical surface that is within six inces of the rangetop and which rises above the rangetop. Bear in mind the rule only applies to surfaces that are vertical AND above the rangetop. You don't worry about the side cabinets because they do not extend above the rangetop, at least you won't have any side cabinets within six inches of the sides of your rangetop. (Also note that the BS range must sit slightly above the countertop so the horizontal countertops will not count as "vertical surfaces above the rangetop." IIRC, the BS user manual says that the back and side trim must stand at least 11/16" above the countertop.) I suppose somebody somewhere might be silly enough to want to shoe-horn a 36-inch rangetop into a 36-inch wide alcove. It would not be somebody who wants to cook. Picture trying to cook on a rangetop that was on a shelf inside of a base cabinet. But, anybody silly enough to want that would most certainly have to extend the non-combustible side-wall coverings down six inches below the level of the cooktop. You, on the other hand, seem like a rational person who will want to have at least a foot or two of counter space on either side of your rangetop. So, you don't need to worry about the fireproofing on the sides. >>"I would do 36" wide SS up to the 42" vent hood."Might want to check into the kitchens forum on that. My inclination would be to make the backsplash as wide as the hood. I believe that there are some photos over there that might help you better visualize the design. ..."Will the people that make stainless steel backsplashes know what a fairing is? Will they know what I need?If you get the SS panel made for you at a metal shop, they could put it in a bender and bend the top 5 or 6 inches out about 3 inches. (The exact dimension will be the distance between the back side of the bottom of your rangehood and the wall behind the rangetop.) Your cabinet guy or any reasonably handy person could make a small triangular frame to sit on the wall behind the bent piece to provide attachment as well as keeping it braced for cleaning and such. I've seen photos of fairings here somewhere but cannot locate them just now. Try Kaseki's clippings page and also search the kitchens forum. This post was edited by JWVideo on Sun, Jan 20, 13 at 16:55...See MoreOpen burner in black--BS, Viking or AR Performer
Comments (7)You can fry chicken on a 8K burner. My grandmother made the best fried chicken on a smaller gas burner. I have posted this link before about cooking myths but #2 relates to fat absorption. The Food Lab's Top 6 Food Myths It is based on this article. The best way you can compare simmers is the same way you compare maximum heat. It is by knowing the BTU rating on the low end. Any other way incorporates additional variables that muddy the water. deeageaux makes the point very well comparing a large chile vat to a 2 qt sauce pan. Temperature ratings are irrelevant. It is the power(BTUs). There are some simmer burners that will not require a double boiler for delicate sauces. There are many different amounts of heat that manufacturers call "simmer". Know the number so you can make a meaningful comparison. I used to work in a food lab and have cooked for many years on all kinds of ranges, gas and electric and there are work arounds for every situation. I would choose based on what you use the most. In my case I use the low end of burners all the time and when I need heat, I pull out the cast iron and my 15K BTU burners will produce a 500 degree surface with a little preheating. If you do a lot of large stir fries requiring high BTUs, and need simmer you can pull out a simmer mat or copper simmer plate. One consideration with a gas oven is that in general they will put more heat into your kitchen due to the ventilation required for combustion of the gas. This is compounded if the oven is poorly insulated. I would definitely look at how manufacturers treat their customers. Any appliance can have problems, but it is how you and your concerns are treated that make the difference....See MoreCan we talk about Stainless BS w/warming shelf over range?
Comments (14)beekeeperswife- Our Garland range (the precursor to Bluestar) is 36" wide, with a 36" wide shelf and ss backsplash (not tiled in, it's a sheet of ss). The hood is 42" and where the range hood meets the backsplash there is about 1.5" gap on either side. It does not bother us, but we're not that detail oriented, YMMV. The warming shelf is a great place to store the kitchen timer, mortar & pestle, salt shakers and pepper mill, and a great plate warmer. The rangehood is vintage Broan, so no heat lamps, but if you are cooking either in the oven or on the rangetop, the plates will warm up nicely there. WRT the underside getting gummed up, we're not clean freaks, and the cleanliness of the underside of anything never weighs on my mind, so I've never even looked. There is a lip, so the underside is about 2" up underneath (if that makes sense). When I clean the shelf itself I swipe the finished edge of the lip and call it good. Good luck- sandyponder...See MoreDark Countertop + Dark BS + Medium Wood Cabs: Bold or Crazy pants?
Comments (24)I'm totally forgetting about trying to create a modern aesthetic. This kitchen will be what it is. We're quirky and I guess it'll be the same. We ordered this light fixture for over the seating island: Fireclay sent me samples of Tusk and Gardenia tile and Supernova, Cotton, Vintage Blue, and Snow brick samples earlier this week. I love the brick! It's thicker than regular tile. I'm guessing that it's ~ 1/2" thick. I'm not sure if that's a concern or not. As with anything I'm sure there are pros and cons. My Fireclay rep offered to send me a full sized brick and was gracious enough to agree to send me two, one in Cotton and the other in Silk. FYI: Brick is 2.5" x 8" Cotton: With its hazy fine-spun finish infused with the slightest hint of gray, Cotton offers a soft and cloudy white. Silk: A creamy white glaze is infused with a warm ivory undertone for a soft and inviting backdrop, flecked with hints of texture. Here is an inspiration pic from their site where they mixed Cotton and Snow. Cotton has gray tones and the Snow is on the whiter end of the spectrum, so I thought maybe bringing in the warmer, creamy white of the Silk instead of Snow would be a good move. I'm unsure about the two-toned look, but thought I'd get input from you all. Other considerations are using Ceres and Silk. Ceres: Named for an asteroid barely visible from earth, this milky white glaze resonates with the same subtle beauty. So, two-toned look yay or nay? If yay, which two? If nay, which one? Because of townlakecakes' collages, we're going to revisit the color options for the LVP. Our GC sent out an email connecting us with his flooring guy this morning. Hopefully we'll be able to meet in the next few days to look at other options. Taken this morning: the rough plumbing is in. The window is boarded up for now. Starting to think I may have gone a tad too big with that window....See Moregkrizel
10 years agosombreuil_mongrel
10 years agocookncarpenter
10 years agoMags438
10 years agoEllen1234
10 years agovedazu
10 years agoMine is on the wall next to the backsplash--doesn't reach to the middle, but it is easy to just slide your pots where you need them to go.
carree
10 years ago
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