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stacked 30 inch uppers with a 10 ft. ceiling?

11 years ago

So...I will have 10 ft. ceilings and I want uppers to touch ceiling or come really close. So far, the plan is to use custom cabs. So, the basic look is a tall cab with a shorter cab on top, crown molding to finish and touch ceiling. But...the cost is alot. I am considering going with a ready made cab and just stacking them for a similar look. But...I really only have the option of stacking 30 inch long uppers. Or 30 and 36. Anyone do this? if so, can I see pics? I am afraid that it will not look right since the cabs are roughly the same size. All examples I am seeing of stacked cabs involve one long one and a shorter one on top.

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Comments (7)

jakuvall
11 years ago
There are plenty of semi custom cabinets available that offer a standard "stacked" wall cabinet- with one long and one short section- typical 45 and 48" total height-top opening of 12"
48 brings you to 9 1/2 ft nominal, leaving 6" for molding which is nice for a stack of molding.
For instance looking at Showplace a stacked 3648 is about $215 more than a simple 3636 wall.

Many brands that don't have a standard stack will "combine" cabinets - you pick the sizes(which will be available from 12-42" high in 3" increments) and they make them as a single cabinet. Costs doing it that way vary from brand to brand--from slightly more to quite a bit.
motherof3sons
11 years ago
A friend just did this with 36" and 18" stacked on top. It looks very good.
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I am short (5'1"). I tried playing with how it would feel to have 30" deep counters. Using my range I am reminded of why it wouldn't be a good idea for me. The range is 28.5 inches deep. I have to really stretch to clean the back guard and it isn't as far away as the wall. I think I would go with the deeper uppers if you don't mind things getting lost in the rear of them. Reaching over 30" counters to a 12" upper would be fruitless for me. As it is now I can only reach the front row of glasses on the second shelf of my 12" over 24" cabs now. I do wonder what prevents you from putting in a full height pantry on the 18 foot wall? That's a nice long space.
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Our house is in progress. We're doing JUST that...a contoured wood hood to the ceiling and 10 foot cabinets with molding above (the molding and the hood are not on yet) Here's some pics of the VERY rough kitchen without anything other than cabinets with unadjusted doors: Here's the hood. Well, not THE hood. The paint wasn't right so it has to be fixed. But that's the shape minus the molding at the top: Sink side of kitchen. I wish I'd have gotten a better shot since you can't see the glass cab on the right of the window. But you can see that in the range wall pic above I guess. There will be a window seat to the area to the left of the kitchen (that's the dining table area) with solid-door hutches on each side of those wing walls that face inwards. We are doing those to the ceiling to break up the line of cabinetry around the room and add height along with the hood. The built-ins on either side of the fireplace (that's covered up with that big board over on the left side) will go to 8 feet. Those will be cabinets on bottom and open shelves on the top with the backs painted out a gray shade: I looked to nini's kitchen for inspiration too. It's so pretty! Here's some kitchens with hoods to the ceiling and cabinets down a foot or two:
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Check with your builder to see what the difference is between 8', 9', and 10'. To stay proportional the windows and doors may need to be custom sized to fit. We had a 9' ceiling for 25 years. We just moved to an 8' ceiling house. I'm 6' and don't have a problem with the difference. With 9 or higher you will need a ladder to reach higher. With 8-ft I use a step stool. Heat does rise. In the winter this means you will want a fan to stir the warm air down with the cooler air. I used a table fan placed on the ground and aimed toward the ceiling. It makes a big difference. In the summer the same thing happens. I run the fan 24/7/365. Smoke rises, too. We had a house fire several years ago in the 9-ft house. It started in the kitchen where there were no smoke detectors. Smoke had to fill the kitchen ceiling down to the door frames before it poured into the dining room. Then it had to fill the dining room down to the door frames. Once it filled the dining room it had to fill the living room down to the door frames. Once it filled the living room it set off the smoke detector in the hallway. The fire burned for at least 30 minutes, and I was awake the entire time in a lower part of the house. So if you are wiring for wired smoke detectors, keep that in mind.
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heidia
Original Author
11 years ago
Thank you all. :)
jakuvall
11 years ago
Oops sorry 48 puts you at 8' 6" not 9'6". That's what iget for posting on my way out the door.
heidia
Original Author
11 years ago
Okay, so with 10 feet ceilings, do you think I can stack two 30 inches-so the upper cabs will be 60 inches total-think it would work? With maybe none or a teeny bit of room for molding?
Mizinformation
11 years ago
What style is your home? Personally, I prefer the look of 2/3 topped with 1/3, which is more typical of the inset panel built-ins and doors in our 1911 Craftsman. The 1/2 and 1/2 is a great look for a more modern design with slab fronts, etc. I don't think 1/2 and 1/2 would fit into a more traditional home. Go to Houzz and search on "stacked cabinets," then filter by "traditional" or "modern" and you'll see examples of both. Good luck!
heidia
Original Author
11 years ago
Mizinformation...the house is transitional. Everything is very simple, clean lines, but there are craftsman elements. The cabinet faces will be shaker profile. Counter is luce de luna quartzite. I was going to mix a walnut stain with white for the cabs as well. I have searched houzz and can find very very few examples of what I want to do...which may tell me something. lol :) I can do 36 with 18 on top, but it would not work all the way around the kitchen as the stock cabs do not offer that for the corner or the narrow cabs on either side of sink.

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