Plumeriavine, I am so sorry you are going through this. I really sympathize with your frustration and I admire you for trying to seek out solutions for the various issues. Some of them are just cosmetic, but many of them are structural and I think it would be good for you to take a step back for a minute and decide if you have the time, energy and experience to determine how to fix each and every problem individually. I'm not a lawyer, but I used to do a lot of contract work in my former job working with lawyers. I want to caution you that once you start developing and implementing your own solutions, you will begin to muddy the waters between what is you KD/installer's issue and what is a result of the fix you implemented. In simple terms, you're taking joint ownership of the problem. If you agree to a specific fix, they will be able to claim that you authorized it and they may be off the hook. As soon as you take ownership of fixing their mistakes, they will hold you accountable if the fixes don't work. It's taken them 6 months to do a horrendous job of installing a poorly designed kitchen. Allowing them to continue to butcher your beautiful cabinets and repair them inch by inch, while you do battle to get everything fixed is a long, long road. Even more complicated is trying to document every issue and every fix needed in an attempt to get a financial settlement out of them. Remember, these are just the issues you know of--there are probably more you haven't discovered yet. I think now is the time to make a firm decision to choose one of the following doors: 1. continue to work with these clowns bandaiding issue after issue, 2. get a thorough evaluation of all the problems by qualified third parties and go to court to get a monetary settlement to complete the job with someone else or 3. have they rip it out, put everything back to where it was and get a full refund. I don't think #1 is an option-you don't trust them and you will take ownership of the problem. And I honestly think that # 3 is a shorter road than #2. I know that's not what you want to hear, but as many have said, the problems are just too massive to think that you have a chance of catching every issue and developing the correct solution. You paid far too much for those beautiful cabinets to accept a hatchet job of an installation. Many years ago we watched as a good friend battled with a builder over their dream house experiencing structural issues. They continued to work with the builder, allowing him to implement solution after solution. In the end, they ended up in court and sold the house back to the builder. The whole process took over 5 years. When it was all over, they wished they had just cut loose from the builder when the problems piled up and moved on. Figure out which option you want to pursue, and put all your energy into that option. If it were me, I'd be headed for door #3.

Sometimes a drip edge is installed below a farm sink and looks good as well as being practical. That would work for your half inch below the sink, the sides could be filled in with an overlay panel like Food shows. Google for images. Most farm sinks without an overlay panel look fine but your sink is significantly less wide than your cabinet, that is why it is more noticeable.

Hi, our kitchen has been finished for about a month. Our soapstone fabricator wanted the contractor to install the sink and make sure everything was plumb before he came to template. I've attached a picture of template day - you can see the sink is already in at that point. Our sink is the Kohler Whitehaven - it took our contractor just about 20 minutes to install the sink!

@Kris E Please pay close attention to what @joseph_corlett said in the previous post. I think you might have your answer there with a custom sink. Furthermore, you could even ask for a custom sink to be made in a flush-mount style and solve this problem entirely with zero re-fabrication of the quartz required. I'll explain more about that in a minute, but first I want to point out that adding a faucet deck may not change the configuration of the quartz, but it certainly changes the configuration in terms of where the faucet is mounted. The faucet not only will now protrude from metal rather than from quartz, but in your case since the sink is undermounted, the faucet will be at a lower level than the quartz. I think this would be even further from what your wife had in mind than is your current scenario. In fact, I was trying to find a sample photo for you of what this would look like and came up empty handed because it just isn't done that often. It's more common to see a metal faucet deck on a flush mount or drop-in style of sink where the faucet can protrude at a level even with the countertop. Here's a sample photo of a faucet deck on a flush-mount sink: Moving on to the custom sink idea, Joseph has suggested that if you sacrifice the current sink, it can be cut out and thereby save you the risk of deconstructing your cabinetry to take it out in one piece. You haven't told us if your cabinetry was painted after installation, but even if it wasn't, there are different ways that cabinets are put together, and the sink base sitting in my kitchen right now prepared for installation for my own renovation is very solidly built with multiple methods and points of attachment of the face to the box, so it's my personal opinion that you are facing at the very least a risk to the finish by considering this option, but of course your technician on site would be better positioned to advise you on that based on how your cabinetry was built and coated. Joseph gave you a plan whereby you could go back with another undermounted apron-front sink which would require some re-fabrication of the quartz to work around the miter problem. Joseph has given you alternatives of either building down the edges of the full surround or notching the mitered edge, examples shown as follows: With the first option, you end up with a larger-than-average lip around the sink, although in your specific case the miter size looks to be within range of this being an acceptable alternative, and with the second option, my personal opinion is that the notch is unattractive. What I'd like to suggest as another alternative is a flush-mount sink, also sometimes called an up-mounted or top-mount sink, like this photo from Havens Metal: There is also the drop-in style option, again a photo from Havens Metal: I will tell you right off that I've done research on both these sink mounting styles, and the drop-in styles tend to develop crud at the lip. That's why kitchen design has so strongly trended toward undermounted sinks in the last couple of decades, due to ease of cleaning. The top-mount, up-mount, or flush-mount, whatever you want to call it, has a similar problem in that the division between the countertop and sink needs to be well-sealed and can fray over time, not to mention be a little more difficult to maintain in terms of cleaning than an undermount. However, the fireclay and other white styles of farmhouse, apron-front sinks are often mounted in an flush-mount manner, so this style of installation is something that is still done in modern design. Coming back full circle to Joseph's original suggestion to do a new undermounted apron-front with a notch at the side, here is an example of that very installation style from Havens Metal: The important thing is to know ahead of time what the look will be depending on what option you choose. There are many custom sink manufacturers around the country, but Havens Metal and Rachiele stood out in my own research for my kitchen renovation due to their quality and service. Havens used to manufacture all of Rachiele's sinks but separated out a few years ago and now focuses exclusively on its own line of products. Rachiele isn't a manufacturer but rather contracts its production out to other companies. [Correction: Rachiele recently established its own factory.] I chose the Prestige finish that Havens Metal offers which is a rolled, 3D finish that helps hide scratches and water spots, an important factor to me since I did select an apron-front style, and scratches and water spots can be especially prominent on stainless steel sink aprons. Rachiele also offers a similar textured finish. The pricing from Havens slightly beat that of Rachiele, and I felt comfortable working directly with a manufacturer that could communicate directly with me to customize any element I wanted which is why I ultimately chose Havens. Ask for Alex Havens when you contact the company if you go that route. Note that Rachiele also has a great reputation for customization via the owner Dino Rachiele. In closing, I will agree with what @Kelly Zamonski stated about apron-front sink planning being critical at the cabinetry design phase. So much of what happens at installation is controlled by the sink-to-cabinet ratios. If you weren't involved with decisions at that phase, then someone really dropped their responsibility with assisting you in this remodel. By moving forward with a custom sink, you can have the measurements made to retrofit your current space precisely. I'd also like to reiterate what I mentioned earlier in this thread, that what you have now isn't all that bad and probably something you'd get used to seeing over time. Please let us know if we may help with any more specific information. On an entirely different topic, after much research, I chose a Brizo articulating faucet with covered hose in Brilliance Stainless, a PVD finish, to go with my custom sink. You might check out the quality and function of that style if your faucet isn't selected already.