Love your cabinets and what a deal. I love the re-store store! In our last house we had a tiny kitchen, but managed to modify a pantry to have pullouts plus a six inch space for broom closet along one side. I know a lot of people would say that's not enough space, but it was plenty for a broom, swiffer and a hand vac. You will love this space. If you order a cabinet, a face frame will narrow the space, though. You will likely also be limited on heights available. You could probably just make this cabinet with 3/4 panels if you want to go to the floor and order your doors separately. We used a 3/4 panel in this way and used angle brackets on the floor and ceiling (at the top ours was also attach to another wall cabinet, though.). The angle brackets on the floor were tiled over since we went down to the subfloor. The ones at top were hidden behind our frig. I think trimming it to the ceiling would look best and maybe find a way to bridge the top of your frig. It will link the two sides visually and give the frig a more built in space. Even if you just put a nice straight line valance with a plain bead at top like your cabs, stained to match, you would get that finished look. We had a cabinet bridging that space. Whatever you use, there may still be that little bit of space to slide a cookie sheet on top of the frig. That's what we did--we used every square inch! Now I'm planning our last dream house kitchen and I'm still wanting to use every last bit of space well. Hate those fillers unless they pull out :) Isn't it fun to find a use for the little spaces that others would just use filler of leave an empty space on the other end?!

Your welcome! The outside measures 12", The inside of the pullout is 7". My GC called it Julie's big drawer lol. Don't know if there would be a way to skinny it up, ask your GC. For my stuff the 7" was the minimum I wanted to go. I told my GC that it had to hold my cordless stick vac plugged in. But I do love that size. The peg board metal brackets you can buy anywhere do hold the broom, duster, steam mop, etc very nice and tightly. The depth is standard counter at 24" but the actual drawer is less. For me it does have a little wasted space. I am only 4'11 so anything above my reach is wasted as I am to lazy to get out a step stool. lol

You do not need full-sized pantry slides - you just need ones long enough to keep the thing coming out straight. You might be able to use a couple of full-extension light-weight drawer slides at the sides of the top and bottom, and then casters to carry the weight. The toekick would have to come out with the pantry if you do this.

Alysonosullivan...this is a something you build from scratch. Anyone with intermediate DIY skills or a handyman could build it. If you study the pictures above, I think you will be able to figure it out. I also found information in a web archive from JGSearls - hopefully it will help as well. . From IKEAFans: JGSearls Moderator Location: Hamden, Connecticut, USA Local IKEA: USA-New Haven Door Style: Adel Medium Brown http://web.archive.org/web/20070630030541/http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/modifications/2085-pull-out-broom-closet.html ============================================================== OK...so Tony didn't love making this broom closet. He said it would have been much easier in a shop but he did a great job. Here's the opening for the space. It's approximately 9-1/2" of dead space. Well...we cannot have dead space in my kitchen. Plus, it was bugging me that I wasn't going to have a broom and dustpan somewhere close to where most of the messes would be made. Using plywood, Tony constructed a box that fits in the space. A box with no floor. It basically went along the side of the fridge, along the top at approximately the same height as the fridge and then along the wall. . Then he constructed the box for the pull-out. That box was a rectangular cube with one side open like this. The yellow shaded area represents the open part. This box was also made out of plywood. . . He cut a tall cover panel (88", in our case) to make the front of the closet. He also cut down cover panels (and toe kicks) to go along the top of the box and along the bottom. He also reinforced the box by placing more plywood cross-wise along the short section of the box at the top and bottom. He attached the peg board to the plywood box. He ended up having to use heavy duty drawer slides along the bottom and top of the box because it's pretty heavy. . . . The closed closet. He was originally planning on having the closet lie flush with the wall but the wall was very wavy. He ended up cutting some more off the cover panel to make a small return for the box. It covers the wavy wall and finishes off the box.