Finally the Plans for Soapstone Sink Taking Shape!
Comments (73)
debrak_2008
11 years agoalex9179
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Soapstone sink
Comments (2)There are a lot of soapstone sink owners on the forum and I have never heard of any complaints. I am in the process of making a soapstone sink. Maybe you've seen my post here in the kitchen forum. The sink will be in my bathroom though. I will post a link. Here is a link that might be useful: Finally the Plans for Soapstone Sink Taking Shape!...See MorePlease Take a Look...Finally my kitchen plans...
Comments (15)Looks nice. I have the same question/concern as kaismom. We have a 39" wide aisle between island and DW. When the door is open, there is only 14" between open door and counter edge and 15 1/4" between open door and cabinet side (no decorative end panel). What type of fridge are you choosing? SxS or bottom freezer? CD (counter depth) or SD (standard depth)? We have a CD, bottom freezer fridge. The freezer drawer extends 18" out (not including handle). If you're choosing a SD, bottom freezer fridge, your freezer drawer will extend farther than that. It would be nice if you could have both DW and freezer drawer or fridge door open at the same time without interference so definitely check these measurements. Does the island include a seating overhang? If it's only 36" wide and you're planning on 1.5" counter overhang, you only have a 10.5" seating overhang. NKBA recommends 15" for 36" high counters and 12" for 42" high counters. If you're tall, you won't want to skimp here. Even if you're not, you may not want to go with less than the recommended minimum. It won't be as comfortable to sit at the counter if the overhang is on the shallow side. Now if you've lived with shallow seating overhangs and are fine with it, then never mind. ;-) Where's the MW?...See MoreSoapstone DIY finally complete!
Comments (39)Thanks ricklish. We're still loving it. I've only done two full oilings so far, about 2 weeks apart. The 2nd one is 2 weeks old now too, come to think of it. It has settled in to a nice balance of dark and light. When freshly oiled a lot of the stone's interesting details get lost. A week or more later it looks better. It'll probably be another week before I do it again, more out of convenience than because it's gone too light. I found bee's oil too difficult to be worth the effort and just use a light butcher's block mineral oil from Williams-Sonoma. The heavy drug store stuff was kinda tough to spread around too but may have more holding power. So far we have no problems with scratches and have pretty much stopped worrying about it. No suprises or regrets! I hope your install went well, we were away on vacation so I'm just now getting back to GW. - D...See Morefinal plans, can you take at the kitchen before we submit?
Comments (24)"...We are large mammals, my husband is 6'5" and I am 6', so elbow room is a necessity! ..." I don't know if anyone has mentioned this, but if you are both tall, chances are your children will be as well - and pretty soon! My kids were way off the charts from the moment they were born! (Our pediatrician always chuckled when she plotted their length/height - b/c they were literally off the charts!) Anyway, I bring this up b/c while the minimum recommended overhang is 15" of clear knee/leg space, I recommend you shoot for at least 18". We have 15" and while my daughter (6') and I (5'10") will sit at it, our knees are up against the back of the peninsula. My DH (6'5") and DS (6'6") don't use it at all - they said it's too shallow for them (and I thought I was doing great with 15 inches!!) If I ever do another kitchen, I will have at least 18", maybe more. BTW..."clear knee/leg space" means after accounting for the cabinets and decorative doors/panels on the back of the island (or peninsula). So, your island should be at least: 15" overhang: 41.5" deep 1.5" counter overhang + 24" deep cabinets + 1" decorative door/end panel + 15" overhang = 41.5" 18" overhang (what I recommend for you): 44.5" deep 1.5" counter overhang + 24" deep cabinets + 1" decorative door/end panel + 18" overhang = 44.5" As to the total depth of your island, chances are you have long arms like I do - so you can probably have an island deeper than 60" deep. Our peninsula is 41.5" deep and I can reach across it and grab the far end (so probably I can reach another 3 or 4 inches) - so I know I could have an island at least 83" deep and still be able to reach half-way across to wipe it down. Would I want one that deep - no, but my point is that you should fit the island for (1) the scale of your kitchen and (2) what you can reach across to wipe down (at least half-way). If you are planning to re-sell in the next few years, you might want to consider keeping the depth to what most people can handle (I'd say 60"); if you're not planning on selling anytime soon, then make it what you want it to be and can handle. I'll check back later to take a look at the layout, right now I need to attend to my family! :-)...See Morecluelessincolorado
11 years agoEATREALFOOD
11 years agoangie_diy
11 years ago
AboutToGetDusty
11 years agoenduring
11 years ago
Iowacommute
11 years agomermanmike
11 years agobcafe
11 years ago
cat_mom
11 years agoenduring
11 years ago
Bunny
11 years agoenduring
11 years agoppbenn
11 years agoenduring
11 years agoNEW UPDATE
Got the sink stand today. The carpenter did an outstanding job with this. It is absolutely wonderful. Here he is, having just arrived and set it down. This is the back:)
Front of sink stand. The color is BM thundercloud gray 2124-40, it is the next shade darker than the walls which are BM Bunny Gray:
Ta Da:
The legs were purchased from Osborne online. I selected a variety of options that he thought he could work with. Note the bottom of the legs with the square areas for the shelving. We settled on a 35.5" island leg because it offered a long upper plain area that could be cut down to meet the other needs in constructing the 25" high base for the sink. My sink is 10" high and 18" square. Don't you just love the bead around the apron? And, I don't know if I could have picked a better paint color to go with my sink.
Wouldn't this look great in an unfitted kitchen?
This post was edited by enduring on Sat, Feb 23, 13 at 1:14
angie_diy
11 years agoenduring
11 years agoThank you so much Angie!! Here is an absolutly sweet picture from this morning:
And just think what it will look like with a faucet and backsplash; oh and some knobs :)
This post was edited by enduring on Sat, Feb 23, 13 at 0:38
leela4
11 years agodeedles
11 years agotea4all
11 years agoenduring
11 years agoenduring
11 years agoSorry about the very first two pictures that are missing at the top of this tread. I updated something on Photobucket and it took out all the links. I relinked the others because the edit option is available for the later post.
The backsplash and faucets are set. There are two pencil trim pieces that need to go in, next to the backsplash sides. Other wise, I think the sink is done!
steph2000
11 years agomabeldingeldine_gw
11 years ago
mama goose_gw zn6OH
11 years agoenduring
11 years agoIowacommute
11 years agoaliceinjersey
11 years agoenduring
11 years agowags848
11 years agoleela4
11 years agoIowacommute
11 years agocrl_
11 years agoenduring
11 years agomabeldingeldine_gw
11 years agoangie_diy
11 years agogwlolo
11 years agoenduring
11 years agoenduring
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoThis is for @Zookeeper, and anyone else who is interested. I'm going to try and link all the pics from my computer, since Photobucket no longer supports posts. The sink is 10" deep on the outside and 18x18 square. So the inside depth is minus the 3cm stone.
1. front of sink slab:
2: bathroom combo:
3. lumber 2x4 practice locking box joints:
4. lumber assembled:
5. cutting patterns:
6. Backslash pattern:
- More patterns:
8. cut pieces with dados:
enduring
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agomore pictures of sink construction, continued. These rabbets or dados were cut with a very very strong router bit that I got at a high end woodworking store:
9. Backsplash, you can see my sharpie line on the left curve, so my jigsaw did pretty well at cutting:
10. Glued up:
11. Locking box joint:
12. Front:
13. Side that will show:
14. front with oil:
15. locking box again (with oil on part of the stone):
16. close up of drain:
enduring
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agolast entry.
17. It did hold water for 24 hours:
18. Vanity:
19. Backsplash glued up and fixtures mounted:
20. Completed vanity. You can see the faint line of the glue at the backsplash, and the tile isn't completed yet. My plumber thought the top of the backsplash was sub-par, so I had to work on the finish some more, while in place. PLUMBERS! lol:
enduring
6 years agoenduring
6 years ago
llcp93
6 years agoenduring
6 years ago
dani_m08
2 years ago@enduring - I have been searching for a sink/vanity for my powder room. I am in love with this idea
I love the idea of an integrated sink. I haven’t found someone who can make this for me yet - except in marble in Italy!
I have a contractor who can make me a floating counter - with a vessel sink. I’d rather not have a vessel sink though.
I just found this photo today
This marble sink made me think of soapstone - which made me think about your soapstone sink.
I LOVE natural soapstone.
What would you rank the difficulty of your sink project compared to other diy projects you’ve completed - on a scale of 1-10? How experienced of a diy’er were you at the time? I know that you’ve renovated at least two bathrooms - were these your first projects?
Due to some serious health issues, I’m not confident that I could take on a project like this - but I may be able to find someone who would (my nephew) - depending how terribly diffcult your soapstone sink was to create.
I know that I’ve asked you about your sink before - but I don’t think that I asked you this question. Thanks!
beaniebakes