Don't ya' just hate sticker shock? I'm always game to try something I've never done before. Just do adequate research ahead of time. I bet if you post this over on flooring and also on the John Bridge forum; you'll get alot of information. Also, try doing a search on both places. Others may have posted with the same questions as you. Sorry I couldn't be of any technical assistance... yet.... now ask me this question in about a year and we'll see if I"ve learned anything new!

Thanks, remodelfla, but I'm a dope! I meant to post this to the Old House forum!

Sorry everyone, for the off-topic post!

Quarry tiles are VERY VERY porous and will require a LOT of sealing. I think they're one of the worst choices you could make for an area that sees frequent pet accidents. A porcelain tile with epoxy grout would be a much better choice. Tile isn't that difficult to lay, but it isn't that easy either If you haven't laid tile before, you need to start with a smaller project than a room the size you're describing. Maybe pick up a old iron table at a garage sale and give it a new tile top to start with. (It can always go in your sunroom when you're done.) Buy a tile saw, because that way you can do the floor a little bit at a time rather than trying to get a rental back on time that's 1/3 the cost of buying a saw. To begin with though, you need to assess the subfloor condition and the foundation type. If it's conventional, you need to know the joist size and spacing to be able to calculate whether or not your floor will be stiff enough to tile. If the floor isn't stiff enough, tiles and grout will crack and there goes your hard work.

vjrnts, it's not hard. I learned on my own and have done 3 rooms so far. Just make sure the roller coastering isn't originating with the floor joists. You have to plan and mark the tile layout carefully first, and keep to the lines so the pattern comes out neatly. You have to have a circular saw and power drill. Do you know what the dimensions and spacing of the floor joists are? If they're at least 2x8s, spaced at least 16 " apart on center, you're in good shape. If not, it's still doable, but you'll have to find out more about this from an expert.

Here's a basic outline of what's involved. The underlayment usually has to be a total of 1 1/4" thick, but double check this with the tile store. You can achieve this with two layers of exterior grade plywood, 3/4" and 1/2". In kitchens and bathrooms a layer of cement board is used because it's waterproof. The edges have to meet along the center line of the joists so they're securely fastened, and staggered so they don't run in a straight line across the room. Once it's well screwed down (check on screw spacing) you're ready to apply mortar, then tile, then grout. A few more specialty tools will be needed but they don't cost much. The most expensive one I bought was a wet saw for cutting tile ($88 at Home Depot. It worked great. You can rent them too, but it's nice to have your own so you can take your time, as a beginner.)

There's enough information online to instruct you through the whole process. Start with the smaller room first to build up your confidence. It's a fun DIY project.