lukkiirish - here's a synopsis: tub/shower combo, toilet and sink/vanity will stay in the same place they are now door will become a pocket door with opaque glass that lets light through new tub might be a little wider and deeper if I can move tub spout to side of tub rather than end of tub (for seating at either end of tub) door may have to move over a little to accommodate wider tub door moving over may mean vanity needs to be a little shallower relatively new toilet will be replaced with one that flushes human waste without the aid of a plunger vanity will be replaced with one designed for the space such that doors aren't obstructed from opening by the toilet - and so that laundry chute under the vanity that is current sealed up with contact paper becomes usable with something like a bin type opening - and so that it generally has well designed storage for bathroom use medicine cabinet that's to the side of the vanity will be gone and replaced with some other medicine cabinet type storage other stuff that's just wearing out like faucets, tile/grout, exhaust fan, etc. will be replaced other than that I'm really going to try not to get caught up in too many extravagant, expensive ideas (unlike my kitchen)

If the gap is not more than 1-2 inches I would install the new cabinet and fill the gap with Easysand. If you need some backer, strips of foam insulation can be wedged in the gap. I had a renovation on an old house that had a medicine cabinet mounted on the wall surface. I decided to simply recess the existing cabinet (why spnd money on a new one, the old one was in good shape). After removing it and cutting through some plaster, I found the original recess had been filled with bricks (on edge) and plastered over long ago. It took about an hour to clean everything up and put the old cabinet in the recess. Some Easysand20 filled the perimeter gaps.

I'm going to disagree with willtv, because if the cabinets were made of SPAM, they'd be slimey-feeling, rather than plastic-feeling. ;) palomalou, I'm giving you the benefit of the doubt, since you've been a member since 2003, and the real estate ad states that the home is off market. I don't know about the cabinets, but if the ad is for a house that you recently purchased, your address is visible. You might want to delete that info.

Here they are...only 4. The 5th one I was thinking about didn't work out. They're in order of preference, #1 most preferred. Note that #1 only has a slight edge over #2, in my opinion. If it were my Kitchen, I would prefer #2, but I know you like the island, so that's why I made it #1 for you. All four: Have a nice separation of the three primary work zones -- Prep, Cooking, Cleanup Have two Prep Zones so at least two people can be working in the Kitchen at the same time prepping, cooking, or cleaning up Have the Cleanup Zone along a wall so the area where dirty dishes inevitable accumulate is either out of sight from the Front Entry and Grand Room (when on the far right wall) or has very little prominence (when on the top wall; low profile from Front Entry & Grand Room and out sight from the Dining Room) Cave counter seating for three Have counters & cabinets 3" deeper than standard along the right wall -- 28.5"D counters, 27"D base cabinets, 15"D upper cabinets. You'd be surprised how much more storage and workspace 3" adds! If you cannot get 27"D base cabinets, then you can pull them out from the wall by 3" before installing them. 15"D uppers are available in most lines these days. I know they're available in Omega Dynasty as I have them. In Layouts #1 & #4, that row of counters/cabinets are also 3" deeper than standard. . Other Layout #3 is the only one where I have reservations about aisle width. While 36" is the minimum recommended width for a walkway, there is a seat right next to it and it is a bit of a concern if people end up using that area for traversing the Kitchen. Layout #1: Layout #1 Zone Map: . Layout #2: Layout #2 Zone Map: . Layout #3: Layout #3 Zone Map: . Layout #4: Layout #4 Zone Map: .