sink base cab that sticks out + undermount apron sink? Mistake?

10 years ago

I'm having a little moment of panic here. The sink base I ordered is 36" wide and sticks out from the rest of the cabinets (what is that called, anyway??), and I ordered a Kohler Whitehaven 36" sink for it. The countertop will be soapstone. I am having a hard time visualizing how this will work, if the sink is as wide as the base cabinet, and they stick out, how will the soapstone look?? I envisioned it with the a couple inches of the soapstone extending out to cover the edges of the sink.
I could swear I have seen this before and it worked, but now I am second guessing myself. My contractor said he has never seen it done.

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Comments (9)

My3dogs ME zone 5A
10 years ago
I may be missing something, but I think I have found several images of your situation; link below.

This image isn't of a base that sticks out, but the counter has a soapstone look, which may help you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Images of your sink in similar installs
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User
10 years ago
You bump out the sink, or the cabinet. Not both. If you do both, you will lose at least 6'' of aisle width, and create a hip banger obstacle course.
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I chose a negative reveal, but specified only 1/16" of an inch (basically a neutral reveal, but with wiggle room for fabrication error). I knew I didn't want a positive reveal for several reasons: in my past experience with them, stuff sticks to caulk differently than it sticks to counter or sink material. So the caulk didn't clean well, and got worn over time from scrubbing. Maybe I had bad caulk? I don't know. Also, I have a fireclay sink, and while that edge might be pretty to look at, it can be prone to chipping/pitting. I'm on my second fireclay sink. The first one got chips/pits all over the top rim which were unsightly. Of course, others here have fireclay with a positive reveal and no damage to the sink. I haven't had any problems with the edge of my soapstone yet. I probably will someday, since all my cookware is cast iron. I don't have any cleaning problems with the teensy weensy area that overhangs. Finally, I just prefer the look! Make sure you use clear caulk! The fabricator tried to use white on mine, but I politely asked him to please remove it and switch to clear. Here are a bunch of photos of mine (the caulk looks white, but it dried clear). Some of the photos look like a slight positive reveal, but that is just the camera angle. It is pretty much between neutral and a sixteenth of an inch. There are pros and cons to the different reveals. Which one looks best to your eye?
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The crumbs-into-sink argument is why we will have one. (We have one now too.) They do get gunky at the seam between sink and counter, so you have to clean that. You can get different reveals so that you see more or less of the gunk, though (arguments on both sides!) However, I seem to recall the last drop-in sink getting a bit gunky at the caulk edge between sink and counter too---it's just in a different place. Never had a problem with leaks---if it's installed properly I can't imagine why that would be any more of an issue than with other sinks. Interestingly, our cabinets clearly had a leaky sink in their past, and that one almost certainly was not undermount since we think the old counters were linoleum before the PO swapped them out for granite. So---I don't think that should be much of a factor one way or the other. I think the utility of the sink far outweights any extra cleaning (and again, not so sure there is much of that!) We don't even have a disposal, but it's still super useful to be able to wipe crumbs from the counters into the sink and then empty the strainer.
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reneestauffer
Original Author
10 years ago
I am worried about the couple inches that would project beyong the countertop. I am probably not explaining very good. Need more coffee.
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snoonyb
10 years ago
It's called an architectural element and is usually just 6" and is designed to break the plane.

The sink is also brought forward for ease of use.

The cabinet is usually wider in these instances, 42" in your case.

While hard surface material has "square corners" they can also be slightly radiased. However, in a short time, it will be normal.
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reneestauffer
Original Author
10 years ago
So did I screw up or can I make this work?
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reneestauffer
Original Author
10 years ago
Found the one I had seen before! It's from 2LittleFishies. It looks like the cabinet is a few inches larger than the sink though. Mine would end up with skinnier pieces of soapstone to cover the sticky-outy parts of the sink base. Hopefully that would not create too much of a weak spot in the stone?

Here is a link that might be useful:
0
User
10 years ago
Traditionally, when you are doing a bumpout at the sink with a farmhouse sink, you have some type of posts or decorative element to each side to beef out that countertop bumpout. What we did here was to keep the sink base in the same plane as the cabinets, but the 6" W posts are the same depth as the sink bumpout (3"). That wouldn't work if the sink base cabinet were the same size as the sink and also bumped out as well as the sink. You wouldn't want a narrow fragile bit of counter space there.

[Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis

[Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis
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reneestauffer
Original Author
10 years ago
So, should I go with a 30"? Nobody has a 33" in stock, and the wait is 3 weeks at minimum.
0
User
10 years ago
Go with a plain undermount sink if you're going to bump the base out.
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sink base cab that sticks out + undermount apron sink? Mistake?

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My3dogs ME zone 5A

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sink base cab that sticks out + undermount apron sink? Mistake?

Comments (9)

My3dogs ME zone 5A

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reneestaufferOriginal Author

snoonyb

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reneestauffer
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