My recommendations would be PA Original which is a very hard soapstone, black with minimal veining. However, there are different characteristics of this soapstone. Take a look at our website http://www.gardenstatesoapstone.com/gallery-stone.php, image 5 of 5. If you have any questions don't hesitate to e-mail jay@gardenstateesoapstone.com

Thank you! I am on LI and working with a fabricator. Can he purchase through your company on my behalf?

Hi Dianalo,

I'm not sure if you are familiar with my sad soapstone saga, but it centers around using a different supplier than fabricator. So when I saw your post, I had to jump in.

My fabricator was not experienced/skilled with soapstone (which is a different sort of beast, and truly requires an expert installer). My fabricator performed a questionable installation, and when a crack/fissure was found, both he and the supplier (M. Tex.) just pointed fingers.

As a result, my number 1 piece of advice is to use the same person who supplies the stone to also fabricate it. Else, if a mistake occurs, you may be stuck.

On a related note, I am in California, so had no access to the venerable east coast soapstone suppliers (Garden State, Bucks County, Vermont). But I have never heard anything but praise for Jay and Garden State Soapstone here on Garden Web. So if you can have him fabricate, I think it would be the best possible move!

Sorry to butt in! I just don't want anyone else to get royally scr*wed the way I was! As far as I can tell, I am stuck with damaged soapstone forever.

good luck!

francy

Hi,
I have a soapstone quarried in Virginia, USA, and I think it might meet your needs for a plain, black, hard SS.
It's from Alberene, and the variety is "Church Hill".
It is about 3.2 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness.

Here is a link that might be useful: Alberene

Hi guys,

Thanks for the advice. I am lucky in that I will need only 2 - approx 3' x 2' pieces, with an over hang and 2 finished sides each, but with no cut outs or seams and don't want a fancy edge of any sort. I am not even sure if soapstone even can do a fancy edge... It would be to flank either side of my stove, which will be in the island, so it is very straightforward. I may even get a piece for under the micro instead of a shelf in a tall cabinet, but will have to find out if that would be too heavy.

Jay - do you fabricate out on LI? I am in Massapequa.

That Church Hill is exactly the subdued look I'd like but will have to see how much green there is (I'd prefer as little as possible, if none is not possible). I will oil mine, so am not sure if that shows more or less of the green. I'll need to get a sample of both mentioned above.

Thanks again!

When it's brand new, and oiled, Church Hill will look like this, with a teal kind of undertone:

The previous pic was taken 9 mos. after install, without any oil, and it had darkened to the more grayed color. Now when wet, it's more blue than green.
Casey

I am curious why soapstone supposedly requires such special fabrication skill. It can be cut and routed with regular woodworking tools rather than the diamond blades needed for granite. There's a how-to article in Fine Homebuilding magazine.

I'm no stone expert, but I'll take a shot at a wee bit of an answer. :-)

In some ways, it doesn't need special skill. Lots of DIY's do a beautiful job with soapstone! I think maybe the difference is they really educate themselves about the "needs" of the stone, and they know in advance NOT to treat it like granite.

Common mistakes from granite fabricators who treat it like it is granite:

1. Sealing or enhancing the stone. A great big no-no, and yet one the customer may have to really argue against (my fabricator didn't believe me).

2. Matching the seam color to the unoiled stone, rather than the oiled stone. Or making other color mistakes. An expert can make such an invisible seam that it is truly mind boggling to me!

3. Attaching the stone to the counters. This is where I really, really got scr*wed. Soapstone weighs something like 20lbs per sq. foot. You can actually just lay it on the cabinets with no "adhesive" at all. I think that most soapstone folks do use a bit of silicone to "hold" the stone. Again I am no expert. My clueless fabricator used super duper liquid nails type rock-hardening epoxy on mine, proudly saying "it wouldn't go anywhere." Yeah. Now that it has this 20" crack/fissure, it ISN'T going anywhere. At least not without destroying the cabinets in the process. That was a devastating mistake for my kitchen.

4. Finishing the surface:

a. There can be issues with water marks and rings. Supposedly my counters are plagued by them because of the very poor finishing job that was done. A proper finish won't show water "stains.

b. Soapstone can be hard to finish because the stone itself is so much softer than the mineral deposits found in it. If you sand the soapstone smooth, you can easily erode the stone, and expose the minerals within and you get this weird wavy texture. I've got a lot of this. In one spot, my counter feels like a rash!! Like skin with poison ivy. I personally can't figure out how to fix it. Folks here who DIY typically read up on this, and seek advice from our beloved Florida Joshua on what kind of sandpaper to use.

To really bring out the best texture and performance and beauty of this unique takes knowledge and skill. Sure, most anyone with sandpaper can finish soapstone. But there really is a difference between any old finish ("Oh, that feels nice") and an expert "Oh-my-goodness-I've-never-felt-anything-like-this-stone-I-need-to-disrobe-and-roll-myself-all-over-this-silky-island-so-could-you-please-step-out-of-the-room-oh-my-goodness-i'm-in-love" finish that soapstone can elicit.

It's all in the details. Any fabricator can give you a soapstone counter. A soapstone expert can give you a little slab of heaven!

:-)

francy

dianalo,

Absolutely I would come out to Massapequa. We recently completed soapstone installations in Huntington, Manhasset, Rocky Point and Merrick. The following is my e-mail to send over your kitchen layout, jay@gardenstatesoapstone.com or you can fax your layout to 732-422-7411. Looking forward to working with you. Don't hesitate to call or e-mail with questions.
Jay

francy,

It sounds like you need a soapstone countertop beautification. Get some 80 grit sandpaper and an orbital sander, if possible and sand the entire countertop so the finish is consistent. Finish with 120 grit sandpaper. Wipe off the excess dust and wax or oil your countertops.
Good luck:)

80 grit??

Oh wow. I used 220 on what I now call "the rash area." It just kept removing soapstone, and leaving the other deposits there until the area was all gritty and rashy. Does that make sense? Btw, I was just using a sanding sponge thingy. So I need to use something much rougher? Oh dear. I'm a bit scared. But I do have a scrap to practice on.

It never occurred to me to use a rougher grit!

thank you!

francy

Hi Jay,
If you have been out to Rocky Point, then Massapequa is no issue whatsoever, lol.... I just did not know if you went that far for such a small amount. It would probably only be for the island, so that is only just over 12 square feet.
I will send you my layout, but will also post it here.

The cabs the ss would be over are 36" each. The yellow highlighting is where it would be. I don't know why these came out so small... will fix tomorrow.
{{!gwi}}
{{!gwi}}

Oooh how did I miss this post! I had Cobra from M. Teixeira and it is lovely! My pics are linked below :)

Here is a link that might be useful: kitchen with black cobra soapstone

Have you thought about a leathered stainless steel countertop to blend with your other surface? Or perhapes doing a soapstone tile or remnant yourself on each side of stove and having leathered stainless installed around that? Just a thought but may not be what your are looking for. It is enjoyable cooking around stainless though because you can slop things all over and its so easy to clean up. You can order the size right online at Frigo designs and get it in a week & a half.
http://s1004.photobucket.com/albums/af170/jterrilynn/ideas/?action=view¤t=frigo-design-leathergrain-patterned-stainless-steel-countertop.jpg"; target="_blank">

Sabj - can you please post a close up of your counter? I can't see the "pattern" it has. TIA

jter - We will have a white with chrome vintage stove and chrome accents throughout (including the bottom of the backsplash). I am not sure if the stainless would look good near the chrome. I will check it out and see how that might look. Does the stainless show scratches if it is leathered? How does it wear over time?

dianalo,

Send me an e-mail with all your info,layout, etc and I will prepare an estimate to fabricate and install your soapstone countertops. Looking forward to working with you
Jay

Hi Jay,
I will contact you tomorrow. Today got away from me... Basically, I need 2 pieces for my island to sit on a 36" cabinet each. I need the front and 1 side finished on each as the back side will have a splash and the other side will butt up to my stove. They will be mirror images of each other when done.
thanks, D