A change of direction in the seams is one of the options for sure.

I still think it's better than this option.

Of course, if you buy extra slabs, you could have the grain running the same way on all of it. Could be cost prohibitive though.

to1969r:

Please post a drawing with dimensions. In the meantime, check out Corian's instructions:

Here is a link that might be useful: Corian Directional Veining Fabrication

Karen, I recently had Corian's Ecru installed in the family room for an L-shaped arrangement of bookshelf/display cabinets. The left side was longer than a standard piece of Corian so it had to be pieced. At my request, the two directions of the veining meet in the corner on the diagonal and there was an upcharge. All seams are invisible, and everything looks fabulous. As Trebruchet recommends, I did read in advance the article he references. He and other GWebbers were wonderful in steadying my nerves and helping me "stay the course." No regrets with my selection, and I know you'll love yours.

Karen:

I've got some ideas for your project, but won't know if they'll work without seeing a layout.

Hi Trebuchet, I'm sorry it's taken me a little while to get back to this. Here are some photos of layout:

The peninsula is a little wider than the material. I asked if they could put on the edges to build it up, but it's a no go.

We are all concerned about the appearance of the seam. I don't know what to do.

Options:
1. Go with it with the seam and hope for the best;
2. Switch to Corian Maui (dark traditional speckle color)
3. Switch to matte/leathered granite -- probably Sienna Bordeaux or White springs
4. Switch to Formica -- Typhoon ice.

We ran into some delays when our counter sales person for Corian went on vacation and the project stalled; now my husband is starting to go crazy without a kitchen sink and dishwasher. We need to keep it moving and feel good about the choice.

Thank you so much. Link to layout in next post.

There's always switching to a different material for the peninsula, like butcherblock. Or doing an insert of butcherblock.

Here are some dimensionsâ¦

The end of the peninsula (bottom) is 33.375" This width of the peninsula is the problem area. I am not so concerned about the seam by the sink.

Thanks for any suggestions on how to handle. I would love to get the Ravine if we can feel vey good about the appearance. Right now the fabricator and Home Depot are concerned about the visible seam.

With Maui they can make it almost undetectable but I'm not sure that I love Maui. It's OK.

Leathered granite is beautiful, but I am concerned over hard water, but I could try to keep up with it.

I think we will pass on Formica, I like it and it is less expensive, but I just don't know. It is cheaper to replace if we have hard water problems but I would rather get something nice and maintain as needed (if possible).

Thank you so much.

It looks like in this drawing they would do smaller pieces and point it toward and around the sink. Do you think it will work? Should I ask to see how they will match up the patterns?

this_old_1969_ranch:

Your fabricator is running the seams the wrong way. He's going to have 170" of seam and he only needs 102 3/4", plus the direction will be much more noticeable and the selection of material is severely limited by his method.

I've drawn his method on the left and mine on the right and the cut sheet. Notice how my method leaves 101" of unused material that can be "shopped" for better seam match. You've got a 2 sheet job no matter how you cut it.

I would rough out the "L" wide, seam it together, and rip the drop edges off the sides so they'd match perfectly. Yes, I know DuPont doesn't recommend a drop edge, but those specs are written by engineers whose paychecks cash no matter. My specs are written by a guy who doesn't get paid unless the lady is happy. Although I've never fabricated this material, I'm certain that a drop edge laminated into a 7/16" x1/2" rabbet will look every bit as good or better than a miter with a lot less work and no need for a V-groover.

I couldn't read your dimensions so I just scaled and guessed, but nothing will change substantially anyway.

This post was edited by Trebruchet on Thu, Sep 18, 14 at 22:49

This will work as well as a miter depending on your edge profile. I'd do a test if it were my job.

Thank you for that info. So if I understand correctly, your suggestion is on the right side, and you would run the gran the short way. And, you think they can match the pattern well enough? Their concern is that the material is has a lot of movement (for Corian). It is not as wild as Sorrel, but it has a lot of variety with some darker and lighter points, and some gray and brown blotches of shading. I think it's very pretty but don't want to see distinct, choppy lines in the design.

Sounds like you could work it out, but my fabricator? I don't know. Are the sheets with the wilder patterns random from sheet to sheet?

Should I pass along your drawing and notes the fabricator and get their reaction? Thank you so much for helping to think this through. I am very curious to see if our shop feels confident about the idea.

I was given a price yesterday afternoon for a color change to Maui that would save about $900 and make the seams pretty much a non-issue. The savings makes the Maui sound more appealing. (I might then add on a coved backsplash to the order.)

Thank you again!

"Should I pass along your drawing and notes to the fabricator and get their reaction?"

Certainly. Have them call me or send me an email if they have any questions. I'd be happy to help free of charge.

Your fabricator is looking for a way to make you a happy customer and lower his risk. I'm sure he'll see my suggestions as furthering those aims.