The KA I'm planning says it only needs 1" behind for air flow, but then goes on to warn about enough space for water line. Palimpsest--I hadn't thought that you could do a box like that. That's perfect. I've never had an ice maker before so this is new territory. The new wall is an interior wall on a single story house. The plumbing lines are under the house. I assumed that the plumber would plumb from under the house and run the water up through the bottom of the new wall's footer. I never thought about recessing the fridge in because I've was warned on a layout thread that I might need even more than a 4" standard wall thickness for water lines. This question stems from me having to figure out the exact placement of the two windows flanking my rangetop so framing can start next week. The window location is influenced by the depth of the fridge cabinet on the perpendicular wall. Y'all know how this goes!! Thanks everyone very much.

"Tap in to your cold supply -- hopefully near the dishwasher -- with a tee and a shutoff valve for your refrigerator line. Remove the baseboard molding. If there is a gap at the bottom of the sheetrock that can accommodate a 1/4" copper line, slide it in place. If there is no gap, cut out a small trench in the sheetrock for the line. Connect one end of the line to the tee and the other end to the refrigerator. Reinstall the baseboard, being careful to not nail through the new line. Touchup the paint." I've torn the place apart, so the baseboard is gone now. This sounds like the best way to do it given my constraints. Thanks to everyone for their input.

Sorry to hear about your leak. I would definitely try to dry out the area the best that you can. Use a dehumidifier, if you have one or can rent one, and use some fans. I'd double check all of the water connections for the icemaker, as well as the water line itself. If the icemaker is turned off, I wouldn't think that you would get a water leak. While not on turkey day, our fun the day before Thanksgiving was having to replace our hot water heater. Fortunately, DW noticed the water on the floor around the water heater, before it had spread far. We spent most of the day trying to get a new one in. We bought one from Lowes, got it home, unboxed it, only to find that it was dented. So, we took it back and got another one. Thank heavens that it didn't happen on Thanksgiving day. We wouldn't have had hot water until today. When DW was at Lowes, returning the first water heater, there was a lady there trying desperately to find a new range, as hers had died. What is it about the holidays that appliances like to act up around? This post was edited by gpraceman on Fri, Nov 29, 13 at 13:19

Mirro 12 quart is the minimum approved for canning so yeah it is easy to run it dry with a long processing time or too high heat because it is so small. You will often need extra water in it. Especially if you can't get your stove burner under good control. Heat control isn't as simple as high vs. medium. Each stove is different and you have to experiment with your stove to determine the ideal heat settings. But if by high you mean as hot as it can go then there is seldom any need for that. The standard jars of water with food coloring in them test works well. On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being high then once it has vented for the 10 mins and you put the weight on try going down to 8 or 8.5, time how long it takes to come up to pressure. If less than approx. 5 mins you can inch it down a bit more. If it takes longer inch it up a bit more to 9. Then you have to time the weight rattles and adjust the heat until you get it in the 3-5 or 6 per minute range. Then note what stove setting on your stove keeps it in the range. When canning foods you don't want to make a bunch of heat adjustments. That causes siphoning. So practice with the jars of colored water until you get your stove numbers figured out. Dave