The thing that would scare me is that Subway Ceramics is traditionally more expensive than most other brands, and when both Dal and AO have trim pieces available for their subway tile lines, if that's the only reason you're going to Subway Ceramics, then you're wasting your money. If you're a fanatic about it being exactly period correct, with no cushioned edges, and instead, flat with nice sharp corners, then it IS the place for you. Keep in mind, though, you're going from about 2.00 a foot to about 11-15.00 a foot for the tile.

Joy, I have those. HATE them. I have lazy susans ordered right now to put in them. that two height shelf is a PITA! If you must, get the shelf that is one piece. BUT you will be leaving a trail of bread crumbs to get anything out of the bottom shelf. If there's a pull out or anything at all available to bring the contents out of the cab, seriously consider it. I also have the diagonals on top. I've put lazy susans in there already. I WISH I could change them for the kind blubird has. I'm going to check the price when I'm in Mason Saturday. If it's not take your breath away expensive, I might do that this year.

The corner cab with the 45 degree angle holds more but is a pain in the butt if things fall off the lazy susan, or worse, if you don't have one. I think the easy reach (no turntable) or pie shape lazy susan may be better because the opening would allow you to reach in the back corners better. I have never had a pie shaped lazy susan in any kitchen I have cooked in, so I could be wrong. I did have 2 45 degree ones and hated them for the most part.

I no longer have mine. But doing the math - the cabinet box was 24", and the sides were 12". That makes the angled face just under 17". However, they were builder grade face frame, so the cabinet walls and face frame took up anywhere from 2 to 4", leaving 13 or 14" for the opening. I honestly don't think widening the opening by 3 or 4 inches would have helped a whole lot. The only items in an angled cabinet that are readily accessible are those right in front. Of course the same is true of a rectangular cabinet, but in the angled cab, you have the side corners and back that can hold stuff, but are impossible to reach without moving the items in the front. And because the angled corner cab is deeper than a standard wall cabinet, there is even more stuff lost in the back. If you're short, like me, it is impossible to reach things at the back, even on the bottom shelf. Sure, you get a lot of storage, but unless you have a lot of things that you use rarely, it's not very useful storage. When I cleaned out my angled uppers prior to renovation, I was embarrassed by how much crap was in them - things I had no idea I even had. Most things got tossed or donated - if I haven't used them for years (because I don't know they're there), I don't need them. In the 25 years we had those cabinets, I did clean them out periodically - and it was the same story every time. Stuff just gets lost in those back holes. I did a little sketch, and a little math. For the sake of simplicity, I'm ignoring the actual width of cabinet walls, and assuming the corner cabinet is 24" x 24", and adjacent cabinets are 12" deep. With an angled corner, I'm considering usable space to be that in front of the door - the square space outlined in green. But because that square is 17" deep, potentially only the first 12" are easily usable (shown by the dotted green line), cutting the usable area down from 576 square inches actual space to about 200 sq in usable space. Applying the same criteria to the easy reach, where the corner is considered less accessible, you have 432 sq in actual, and 288 sq in accessible. Obviously, YMMV in both scenarios, depending on what's in the cabinet. Another thing to consider - I put an extra shelf in one of my easy reach cabs, giving me more total usable area in that cab. While it's possible to do that with an angled cabinet, reducing the height makes the back and sides even darker and less convenient.