Hi Annkh, it sounds like we are at a similar place in our remodels, I have just finalized the layout in the last few days...I think it's the last revision! I need to finish up these cabinet choices asap, because everything else is rolling along, and my cabinet decisions are slowing us down! Regarding the ROT, good point about useage of taller items...most items would fit in a large drawer, and if tallest pot doesn't fit, yes I could store elsewhere. It might be worth it to chance the drawers. I have a 4' wide place to put either a ROT or drawer cabs for pots and pans. To both you and drbeannie2000 - I just calculated that my FiestaWare dishes to go in 1 large drawer are a whopping 68 lbs. IDK if my drawers will be capable of that weight, and IDK if I actually want them all in one drawer - that just seems like a lot of weight to put in one drawer. They are all different colors and even on the upper cabinet shelf when I wanted to use certain colors I had to lift a heft of plates to get what I wanted. It might actually work better for me to have 4 drawers, then I can put my fav dishes in one drawer, and less fav - or 'summer colors' - in the next drawer. Seasonally switch them around, most used in top drawer. I'm putting an island in my remodel and that's where the dishes cabs will be - I will have 2 - 24" W drawer cabs for dishes (FW in one, and a set of pottery dishes in the other.) I think, after all, that 4 drawers might work better for me with these heavy dishes, and the bottom/largest drawer will hold the serving bowls and platters to these dishes. Does anyone see a downside to that?

Drawers all the way! Get as wide as you can, so you won't have as many stacks. I have 6 drawer stacks but no more than 3 in a row. It is easy finding things as they are put away in zones. There are the pots/pans drawers, the bowls/fry pans drawer, the daily dishes drawer, the cups/glasses drawer, round tupperware drawer, square/rectangle tupperware drawer, baking drawers (2), junk drawer, keys & family notebook drawer & misc dh stuff, stamps, pens/pencils/crayon and checkbook drawer, my drawer for work stuff and pocketbook, foils and oven mitt drawer, silverware one, several utensil ones (serving stuff one, cooking stuff one, measuring stuff, cutting boards one, food processor stuff one, etc....), one for lunch bags and water bottles, cookie sheets and one that has sone light bulbs and medicine which will move out once we get the shelves in our master medicine cab. Not sure what will go in there.... Once you set it up logically, it is easy to remember. Post it notes for the first few days help. I had rollouts in the last kitchen before we moved here and thought they were great. We moved here into a kitchen with no drawer stacks and only had shallow top drawers. Our new kitchen is so much better than even the pullout setup. As you know better, you do better. Thanks to GW, I went with all drawers other than the sink base. If we did not have water filters in the sink cab, we'd have done drawers there too.

We have 2 pulls on the cabs that are 30 or wider and 1 pull on everything else. I find that with the smooth operation of our cabs that having 2 pulls is nice. I can reach a pull from either side of the drawer and never use 2 pulls at the same time. It helps if you have a few people in the kitchen at the same time, esp for the 36" wide drawers. I also like the double pull look better on the wide and deep drawers. Most don't do a 4 stack of drawers that wide, so I am not sure how a single pull would work in that instance. These are 30" wide drawers with 2 pulls. I can't picture them with only 1. Notice that neither pull is very far from the center:

pickle2 I have 4 drawers. Two have a 15"h drawer front on them, Two are internal drawers. You see them once you pull on the 15"h drawer front that hides them. They can be pulled open at the same time or not, depending on the clasp position. Dimensions: In one set (deep drawer and shallow internal drawer) the distances are 10.75"h and 3"h In another set (deep drawer + shallow internal drawer) the distances are 8.375"h and 4.75"h ; I've not had these drawers long enough yet to know if the spacing is right for my needs. I could screw the internal drawer higher or lower if I wanted more or less space in the deep drawer. How: I got standard Ikea cabinets. I removed the bottom plate of the Ikea cabinet cube. I put the cabinet feet under the side panels. I have thus created a larger volume. I got standard Ikea drawers (ie. Tandembox by Blum) I screwed the (Ikea Tandembox Blum drawer front) hardware onto 15"h fronts. Each drawer has a base that is about 1/2" thick; two drawer floors take up 1"h This leaves about 13.875" available for each combination of two drawers. In one of my two drawer sets I have a bit less height available because a steel support takes up some room at the top; it was installed to give additional support to my counter at the cut for the cooktop. You could do the same thing with 4 separate drawer fronts. I didn't do this because my entire kitchen looks like it has two drawers everywhere; this keeps the lines lined up, and it reduces the visual complexity. Behind the drawer front there is a lot happening: in another cabinet I have my kitchen sink and drain, which fit into this 14.25" height. hth -d p.s. My drawer fronts are a bit less than 15" (Askome doors turned sideways). This leaves a bit of space under the counter for fingers to grab the drawer front. No need for handles. The counter overhang is large enough to stop direct line of sight into the inside of the drawers.