Yes, that's exactly what I did. They make small 2" "connectors" where you can separate the strips and turn the corners squarer, but I just ran the tape up and across and down without cutting it. You will have to drill holes in your cabinets to run the tape lights power supply back to the transformer, but they are small holes. If you have an extra touch up kit, you won't even "see" them at all, even in reflection.. Treat the cut edges with the stain pen or putty.

To "double back" and light under the glass cabinet, I used a connector at the end with an attached lead that then tucks up next to the tape lights and attaches to a separate piece of tape light under the glass cabinet. I didn't use light rail here, and had to drill holes between the eges of the cabinets to keep the run going under them. If I'd used a light rail, it would have been a simple matter to just attach the tape light to the light rail instead of drilling the cabinets. I wanted to show how they would look both with and without light rail, so I have another vignette that shows them with the light rail.

With a light rail and up lighting, as well as corner cabinet lit. Also, this is the "warm" lighting, where the white kitchen uses the "cool" temperature. (Except for under the grey wood cabinets. I used warm there, to showcase the difference in look.)

Live wire- thanks for the quick response. I have a glass door corner cabinet that I planned to light seperately from the undercabinet line, but I like how you have it all on one line. I will have to reconsider that. As my daughter and I were putting in the shelves I realized that the light would not shine past the first shelf if I lit from top. I tossed around getting glass shelves cut, but I think your idea might actually cost less and light the cabinet nicely. Thanks again, this forum is lucky to have you.

Live wire- Different Question...I was looking at your corner cabinet and was wondering if it comes out farther from the wall than the cabinets beside it? If so how much?
Thinking about the Crown Molding...
thanks

Cayle-I can answer this, although live wire could probably answer better. If you are planning staggered height cabinets, the taller ones should be 3" deeper to give the crown mould on the adjoining cabinets a surface to "die" into. I did not know this, I learned it here, yeah GW. We were going to go with staggered height, but with an 8 foot ceiling the tall cabinets with crown mould were inches from the ceiling. It looked odd and all I could picture was the dust accumulating on the taller ones and my cat climbing on the lower ones. Isn't it fun making all these decisions! I'm almost finished except for crown, backsplash, floor moulding throughout kitchen, living room and dining room, and some paint. Of course the furniture that was returned to the living room now looks shabby. Ok, so I am not even close to being done! And the cabinets don't have handles yet either. But after a long summer I have a functioning kitchen again. Sorry for the rant.

My whole house is a disaster...furniture, boxes etc everywhere in every spare inch it seems...and I'm sure when we Finally get the kitchen done...(Hopefully before Christmas) everything will also need a facelift of some sort!
OK Question....I already have cabinets ordered (and they were stock, not custom made) so How do I get my 36" Cabinets 3" deeper? Or can I ?

Cayle- if they are already ordered I don't know if you could change them. Maybe it depends how long ago they were ordered. If just in the last couple of days maybe there is time to change the size. If not someone here may have a suggestion. Maybe they can be pushed forward with framing behind them. If you have cabinets on either side that are ending at same length I don't think you would notice.
My house was a disaster all summer. I promise it will get better and it will be worth it! Good luck, I will be thinking only good thoughts for you.

Yes they are ordered and waiting to be picked up..but that wouldn't have mattered...they are standard stock cabinets so couldn't have got them any deeper...but was thinking about the framing behind them....Does anyone know if this can be done?
It's only been a week into it...but DH is already saying ....when is this going to be done...lol.....Good he doesn't know!!
And that is what I keep telling him....It's all going to be worth it!

A corner cabinet that is deeper will also be wider. A 15" deep corner cabinet will be 27" in two directions instead of 24". Increasing the depth of a stock corner cabinet after the fact will throw everything off in both runs because it increases the width in two directions. Everything has three dimensions to account for. Your crown will have height, but also thickness and depth (projection). It's that projection that makes it not work unless the depth of the taller cabinet is increased.

The best approach if increased depth cabinets isn't available is to return either the shorter or taller cabinets and go with a uniform top alignment rather than staggered height. Staggered height requires staggered depth also unless you want to do an amateur crown molding return to keep from hitting the adjacent cabinets.

The RIGHT way to do staggared height.
{{!gwi}}

Forum hiccup.

This post was edited by hollysprings on Sun, Sep 8, 13 at 20:58