What does the floor look like when it's wet? Does the color of it then look rich like you'd like? It's possible, if the previous products used don't conflict, that all your floor needs is a good waxing to bring out the color and shine. But, without knowing the products used, it's possible that putting wax down could screw up any opportunity to repair it correctly without sanding down to bare concrete. The absolute cheapest potential solution would be to engage a pro to come in and wax it and buff it. That is how home stained concrete is usually finished. However, that isn't a very durable surface treatment in a setting where you may have chemicals. If you can't figure out what products were used, there is too big of a chance of screwing it up permanently. If it were me, I'd look at sanding the whole thing down to bare concrete and starting over with all new products that you know work together and finishing it off with an industrial clear epoxy. That's not a DIY job. Or, for a DIY treatment, putting something like a VCT over what you have currently, or maybe sheet vinyl. You could choose various colors of VCT and create an interesting pattern or just go with a single color. That can be maintained by a pro with a buffing machine and acrylic clear coat on top. Standard industry products and machines. The vinyl would be the least durable option.

Oh yes, it darkens. All cherry darkens. In the month since the display has been here, it's "richened" up considerably. Yes, the grain pattern of oak will be seen with the Porch Swing. But, I find that attractive. Especially with quartersawn. YMMV. But, quartersawn oak will be about the same upgrade $ as cherry. There's also the option of the Brushed Ebony over Oyster or Pearl, but that's an opaque finish, not a stain. It does give the appearance of "grain" because of the brushing, but if that's not what you want, that's not what you want. Let me see if I can get some pics of the different choices for you. Some of it, all I have are the small samples. We're also redoing the showroom lighting for less glare, but that's not going to help the current pics. If I were on a budget, and I were OK with an opaque finish, I'd "downgrade" to the Kemper/Diamond/Schrock/Thomasville (same cabs, different names) and look at their new Cloud finish. It's an opaque that is a medium lightish gray. I saw it at training at the plant last week, but I don't currently have a sample for you. Your dealer might though. My company only charges 5% to take the standard furniture board construction to all plywood. With that upgrade, you would be 90% of the way to Dynasty. 1/2" sides instead of 3/4", but 3/4" is total overkill for framed cabinets as far as being more durable. Even the 3/8 furniture board in most bulder grade cabinets will withstand years of hard use just fine. I'll post back later this afternoon with pics if I can.

I asked about scratch resistance was because I saw a table on Houzz with the top that looked like Chroma. I'll start another post because it is more than just about Chroma. SparklingWater, Are you asking about my venting problem with the brick enclosure? If so, the answer was there all along but I was too stuck on the problem to accept it. :$ I took Hollysprings' advice and demo-ed the brick. :-) That made everything so much easier and the kitchen looks lighter and more spacious. I am not finished it (had to put it "on hold") but will be soon, and I love it so far.

It's a topmount Blanco Silgranite in anthracite. I'll have to look up the exact model # when I get back as I'm not in the showroom this morning. It came with the single hole, and another knockout in the opposite corner. We paid extra to have the second hole cut out by them so we wouldn't have to deal with it on site. We added the soap dispenser to the second hole, but since we rarely use this sink, we took the soap out. It sat there and gummed up and wouldn't dispense because of the length of time between uses.