I'm a bit concerned about your corner sink. Do you have a reason for the angle? You're not going to get much storage in those 6" pullouts, especially cutting off the depth of each. A big (huge!) expense for not much gain I think. They're not very close to your range for spices, and I was warned the big bottles of D/W soap wouldn't fit well in them.
As well, none of your elements in that corner are centred (ie: on windows, each other). If I read correctly you've got a rad in that corner (?). If it's going, you could reduce your garbage pullout to 15", you could fit your sink and D/W on a straight run along the right wall (but no pull outs). Your sink would then be centred on the smaller window, and you might be able to reach that upper dead-ended cabinet (I don't think you'll reach the left side of it how it is now). Eliminating the bend would also give more room for your table.
Your scale is a little hard to decipher. Maybe try drawing it up with the graph paper the designers use? The grid would be 1:4

Here is a link that might be useful: Printable engineering graph paper

Definitely using the squares to represent an easily discernable scale would be helpful. Accurate scale is a necessity in planning, or you maybe negatively surprised later. A little off here and there can add up.

I'm also concerned about what's happening around the corner sink, and how many things pull into the person standing there. Also, I don't think you have room enough to sit at the table?

Ditto the concerns regarding the sink area. If you are at the sink, can you open the DW door and be able to turn to put dishes from the sink in to the DW?

If you squared up your sink you'd gain over a foot of usuable counter space. Concern about squish point between the open DW and table. What if someone is sitting there enjoying their coffee and you want to scrap/load some dishes before dessert??

First, this is much better than the original.

Generally, people use a square to represent 6" and an occasional person uses something else like one square = one foot. Stock cabinets generally come in 3" widths - so we all think of cabinets as either 2, 4, or 8 squares deep depending on the scale...

The reason for the complaints is shown by the 46" wall distance followed by the 6" wall-or-trim distance in the upper left corner. If the 6" is correct, then every square should be worth 4", BUT, if that was true, the 46" wall distance would take 11 and 1/2 squares and instead its shown as 9 1/2 squares. If the cabinets are drawn as 25" deep (5" squares), then the range is about correct, but the 18" cabinet is wrong and the 23" drawers are 24". Everybody gets nervous and jerky when the drawing might be wrong.

So - I'm not sure about the sink - as its done, it takes 55 inches of space on both sides of the corner. I'm throwing in the pullouts - they aren't going add much storage as each one will be about 4" wide and somewhat buried under countertop. Those d@#$ things are pricey too.

I guess I think it would work better to use a 30" sink crammed into a 30" sink base and place the dw on the end of the left hand wall - in a straight line.

Unless you wait until after the walls are repaired, you need to declare a filler on the left hand wall somewhere. It needn't be large but its required when both ends of a run are against end walls. Maybe that's why you have a 31" cabinet on the end? Is it really a little smaller, but has an extended stile? The filler is required because the house walls aren't going to be level and plumb so it gives a tiny bit of adjustment for that.

IF you're going to sofit, I'd really encourage moving the range down the wall a little (little bit of duct work). That's partly because having bigger pot draws is really better! So, do something like make one unit a 30" and the other an 18". Or 36" (micro plus two drawers over tall drawer) and a 36" plus the required filler POSSIBLY done as a pull-out if it stays large enough.

The other part depends on how you use your sink. We tend to have some things drying on one side and some things waiting to be washed or put in the dw on the other. It can negatively impact the amount of prep space that you'll actually have.

The other thing I wanted to say was that I don't think you'll be able to reach a lot of that long wall cabinet (46") over the sink. The back corner will be about 46" from the front of the sink and the center will be about 30".

If you flatten the wall, you might try shelves across the window. There are some photos of kitchens with this running around and they can be quite attractive. We tried this in our kitchen before we settled on a different plan and it worked pretty well.

It did not cut off a lot of light. I didn't feel like it would hit me in the head. If you want to try it - sometimes cutting brackets and shelves out of cardboard and using blue tape to "assemble it" is good.

Are you modeling your sink after Marandall's corner farmhouse sink? It looks about right...

For others:

Marandall's 30" corner farmhouse sink:
{{gwi:1946767}}

To others...the recessed sink offers more space to move around when the DW is open. See Marandall's photos with measurements & explanations.

Here is a link that might be useful: Marandall's Corner Sink Pictures

There are problems with this plan (sorry) as others have noted. For anyone curious to know more, here's what the OP wrote about their wish list, appliances and family needs in a previous post (linked below):

So far, we are keeping our current range and refrigerator, a 30 inch propane gas Frigidaire Gallery range, and our 36" side by side GE Profile fridge.

New purchases, 1. 27 " electric single wall oven that will sit in a 30 " base cabinet
2. 30 " over the range microwave , that will sit in a cabinet above the single wall oven
3. Vent hood
4. Dishwasher _ Miele

Our current kitchen does not have a vent. So we will move the range to other side of the kitchen where there appears to have been a wall vent many moons ago.

We are restricted in space and budget, so we are not moving any walls ( we want to respect the original design of the home ).

We currently have a breakfast nook that hubbie SO wants to keep - but I feel that it closes off the kitchen. So there is a bit of hefty debate where and how to design this "nook". The built in china cabinet will stay.

We also have two radiators currently in corner cabinets as you can see in the pictures ( cab doors are open ) and one radiator ( hot water heated by oil ) underneath nook table. We will replace the two radiators with toe kick fan heating things ( I forget the name )

Floors will be hardwood and counter tops will be granite.
Sink will be farmer's sink most likely stainless steel.

Style of cabinet is shaker, with some type of beading and the color is light grey or a creamy white.

Again, we a family of 4 ( two teenagers who Love to cook ).
So a second oven is a must. We tried to fit the 48" duel fuel WOLF, but it would be a monstronsity in the little kitchen. Oh, did I forget to mention, we have no central air on the first floor.

The plan for the original kitchen shows that the left wall is not a straight shot as drawn in your proposed plan. Because of the niche in the banquette wall (shown in photos posted in previous thread), I'm assuming that is a false wall and it's being removed so that you're gaining those 6" for that space. Is that correct?

You wrote that you don't want to move walls. Are you open to moving windows or the door on the right wall?

Have you eliminated the rads in each corner and under the nook table or are they included in this plan?

And what about the second oven? I don't see that in this plan at all. Did you give that up?

Have you chosen a cab company yet? I don't know if you've looked at them yet but given your kitchen's tight quarters, I strongly urge you to consider frameless cabs. Inset would be more in keeping with your home's age - and would match the china cab - but they aren't as space efficient as frameless cabs.

Speaking of china cab, you previously wrote that it would stay but I don't see it in your plan. Did you decide to remove it?

Here is a link that might be useful: please help_choices of kitchen cabinet manufacturer

Hmmm...picture doesn't show any more...how about this?

I should clarify that I don't have an issue with the sink location or set-up (although I'd have bruised hips all the time because of those corners, I'm a clutz), it's the eating area the OP has designed. I don't see how this will work at all. Too many pinch points, not enough room, for chairs or for people to move around the table. Why not go with a banquette again since your hubby really liked that about your existing kitchen? Like this:

{{gwi:1946769}}

The banquette is larger than your existing banquette; it takes up an additional 10" along the wall. You could add drawer storage to the bench seats, too. This will seat 4. I made it 60" long in case the rad is still in place. The benches would be like this, but with storage in the benches:

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[traditional kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by chicago kitchen and bath The Kitchen Studio of Glen Ellyn

Re: the 27" wall oven you purchased that I don't see in your plan. One place to put it is in the wall of storage across from the banquette in my plan. This reduces the end cab to 24" but that's still adequate for landing spot for items coming from the oven. If you hadn't already purchased a micro-hood, I would have suggested doing an oven/MW column next to the pantry so that you could gain more storage next to your range. Can you or would you be willing to sell it and buy an inexpensive MW instead?