Hi Manbike and other experts, I just bought an Elite full top-grain, aniline plus leather sofa that is made in their California plant. They use tempered steel sinuous springs for both the back and seating suspension. From their site... Depending on the design of an individual style, our frames are made of responsibly forested Pacific Northwest alder hardwood or of Forest Stewardship Council (FCS) certified hardwood plywood. The hardwood plywood frames we produce also meet the strict standards of the California Air Resources Board (CARB). We create the frames in our own mill and reinforce our fames to ensure proper tailoring of the selected covering. And, while others may not use corner blocks at all, we use many in each sofa to enhance its strength. I do not have it yet. Most of the better sofas like HM are out of my price range. I sort of got warn down on my research and took the plunge. I did read a few bad reviews but apparently they have a cheaper side line sold at Macys and a few other stores that is made in China. I'm a bit nervous as I did not try it out in person. Also, if plywood is bad what do they mean by hardwood plywood? Does that mean crap? The choices are so limited around me so I ordered from a dealer I have used in the past. Do you know anything about Elite quality? I have read that not all sinuous springs are bad and that some can be very good. I should add that I did write the factory and ask if my sofas had any China on it, they wrote back and said no, it is made in the California plant. Now granted in the world of furniture I am not making a huge investment. It is however a big investment to me in my world. I bought a four seat Aero sofa and a three seat Aero sofa, both in the top grain leather for a total of $4800. IâÂÂm just hoping that IâÂÂm getting a good mid to mid high quality and not over paying for a poor quality. Trying to get the best bang for your buck in a mid to mid high range is incredibly hard. Not everyone can spring for a HM. With H&M you know what you are getting. Not so much with other brands these days, even brands that formally had a good reputation. This post was edited by jterrilynn on Thu, Mar 13, 14 at 10:14

Hi, Wow. Thank you so much. Thank you for listening and advising and thank you for the details. ajsmama, I don't think I found any Contact paper without adhesive. I need to look at WalMart again. Here's what I did today, though: I went to Home Depot, again, and bought....... do not laugh . . . . vinyl floor remnants - pre cut remnants (yes, that is linoleum), with a backing, not very thick, 6' x 8' (I think) for $22. I remembered that I had used left-over vinyl 20 years ago for under the sink and for the major pots and pans cabinets. And it was still whole and not too yukky when we changed out the cabinets 6 weeks ago. So, I'm going to use that for the underneath spots and some pull outs. Then I went to Joann's and they have a HUGE assortment of stuff- all kinds of vinyl- didn't see cork-- cork was expensive at Home Depot, though, and with a backing. Anyway, I was all set to buy my vinyl stuff for the normal, not heavy duty places -- and the lady asked me if I had THE COUPON..... of course I didn't. She said it was 40% off of a fabric cut. So I went home to look for it and only found a 20 % coupon.....etc etc etc The quest continues. Vasue, thank you so much. I have to look into the cork more in detail tomorrow. I'll tell you one thing, KCboom, my cabinet shop (local one in Tucker GA) had never been asked about the lacquer issue....I think nobody lines cabinets around here. The Home Depot guys are not aware of it either and neither was I until I bought a bunch of awesome spongy white liner stuff at Lowe's and I was about to use it 2 days ago when I actually read the package label and saw the warning.....If so many people have varnish and lacquer (?) then why aren't there more liners for it? Ok. Tomorrow is the backsplash and the heavy sanding of the family room wood which had to be pulled out and re-installed because of so many worm holes. The backsplash and floor were not supposed to coincide, but hey, things happen. At least they do with us. good night and thank you.

Are there other things planned for under the sink inside the cabinet where the drain stub is now centered? If not, a different configuration of the p-trap and connections are easily made (even though the drain stub is centered). Standard cabinet counter DEPTH is generally 24 inches (plus a slight overhang of granite). There are many undermount sinks that fit that depth and have room for a faucet in the back. Now if the WIDTH of your sink cabinet is only 24 inches that limits the size of an undermount sink somewhat, but there are some that will fit. If you want a stainless steel undermount sink, look at GalaxyToolSupply.com (under kitchen sinks). The Ticor brand has many sizes you can view there for starters.

Hi! Yes, there are ours! They are our Rush Counter Stools, you can find out more here: http://www.lauraleedesign.com/quickship/copy-of-f24-rush-bar-stool-no-arms. You can call us at 818-842-5300 or email info@lauraleedesign.com if you have any questions or to place an order.