You can do it with patience and a bright flashlight. Determine the general area by putting paper towels (or newspaper) down. Check often and then follow the wet spot up. Once you get the general area (eg. drain OR water supplies), work your way up to each joint. Look closely for a glean of water building up at any of the edges of the joints, bottom of P-trap, and all the compression fittings. (Do this also while draining a sink full of water to see if it's a drain issue.) Once you find a wet area, be sure to double-check things above it - thats' the trick. Test and retest by wiping the joints dry and watching further. Not usual, but if your counters get wet, even behind the faucet, it can be coming under the edge somewhere - that should be sealed all around.

OMG, that's it!! It's amylville's kitchen. I can't believe you found it from my vague description. How did you figure out that was the kitchen I was describing? I spent about two hours looking through the kithen blog last night and never could find it. Thank you so much. Laurie

flyleft, i have just the configuration you are describing re: recessed medicine cabinet (and bath storage cabinet) with full mirror door. My recommendation - put in the chrome handles. Not only to mesh with the other "handles" but because the chrome will better integrate with the mirrored doors and will just disappear against it. Our handles are the little cylinders-with-divots and they just disappear - a happy accident since I'd really okayed the chrome on these cabinets only to better integrate with the other shiny things in the bathroom! They do get mucky but only at the rate at which the mirror does so you'll be cleaning both at the same rate :-) Anecdotally, in the kitchen, our glass doors have an aluminum frame which is substantially lighter colored than is stainless steel. I'd picked stainless handles for the kitchen cabinets all the way around - so since the wood cabs had stainless, I naturally got stainless for these aluminum edged glass door cabinets too thinking that they'd integrate correctly. Mistake. Nobody will every see that the stainless pulls on the glass door corroborate the stainless pulls everywhere else - what even a blind man will see is that the glass door handle is so much darker and stark against the aluminum of the frame there. I should have picked aluminum or brushed chrome handles for the glass doors. Oh well. A correction for another time - I've put paid to the kitchen project. :-) So is this for the bathroom? I do hope you'll be supplying pictures of this project as it sounds amazing. What did you do about the teak counter?

The arrangement of your uppers needs to be tweaked. If it were me, I'd take the ones on either side of the hood out and use an easy reach cabinet in the corner by the sink. The hood width looks the same as the cooktop and you'll want to increase it by 6 inches for good capture. Put one over the countertop next to the fridge. If open shelves are the way you want to go, they'll terminate nicely between the uppers instead of losing storage in that corner. You'll need filler next to your oven cab for those doors to open. It'll move everything to the left enough that the flying cab will look especially awkward. You want to pick either bringing cabs down on either side of the hood or give it some breathing room (depends on the chimney). The over-the-fridge cab is unusual. Not sure if that's just a place holder but think about how the lines are going across the room, from the cabinet doors. You'll want to maintain that continuity. Do you really want no trim at the ceiling for transition? I'm going minimal, myself, but I think the top of the cabs need something. It doesn't look like you have enough leg room for all of the counter stools, looking at the corner closest to us, so that's something to address if the number of seats is important to you.