Scribing around farm sink front base +...caulk? Putty?
Comments (16)
theresse
13 years agoRelated Discussions
please help with shelf liner and farm sink problems
Comments (3)Terri- Do you have an Ikea near you? I just bought their plastic shelf liner in rolls. It's got subtle texture and while it doesn't have any stickiness to it to glue it to the cabinet, it's easy to apply and might help keep water off the base. It'a also really cheap, and when I put not quite dry things onto it, the water collects nicely in the little textured areas and doesn't move anywhere else, until either I see it and wipe it up or until it evaporates. As for the sink, do you have a close up photo of the area? I'm wondering if a simple, subtle, bead of caulk along the sink and perhaps under it, might keep the water from dripping into the cabinet, or if there is more of a problem there....See Morewill a 32 inch sink fit in 33 inch sink base?
Comments (18)Thanks so much @Joseph Corlett, LLC, and for replying so quickly too. The Blanco sink we wanted was a regular one bowl sink, not an apron front. Not sure if this would change anything. The picture you posted was great. So when installing a new sink, we would remove the front of the cabinet and the sink would slide out, correct? I found out about sink straps from your posts here after we started the remodel. If I had known before, I would have picked a contractor willing to install with straps. We are a big family and a large sink is important to us. He cannot understand how straps attached to the cabinet are strong enough to hold up the sink. He is not willing to cut into the new cabinet as he says it would weaken the cabinet (see triangular pieces in corners that would have to be removed in picture below). It would also void the warranty, and he has supplied the pre-fab cabinets, so either I find someone else who is willing to, or I get a drop in sink to avoid attaching to the plywood, which is the way I'm leaning now. Do you know of anyone with your expertise with strap installation in Los Angeles? I hope there's a way to install the top mount sink into the quartz where we can do an undermount with straps in the future. Also a side question. We had mold damage which started the kitchen demo. Mold was around the dishwasher cabinetry (dishwasher leak), and also on the plywood subdeck around the sink (we think from weak caulking and holes in grout between granite tiles on countertop). Is there anything that can be done to protect the cabinets from dishwasher leaks? By the time you realize the dishwasher is leaking, the damage is already done. Thank you so much. This the sink we had planned to install: Blanco Precis - Undermount The top mount we will probably install: Diamond Blanco Sink - Top Mount...See Morequestion about farm house sink and soap stone
Comments (4)I doubt it. Most farmhouse sinks are scribed to fit in the cabinet base. Occasionally you do see them resting on a shelf however. Most also are very heavy and need to be supported by structural members inside the cabinet/cabinet frame. Do you see yourself wanting to replace the sink later on, or are you afraid of damage? If it is the latter, I would use GW, etc. to research the most durable sink for your needs. If you purchase a quality sink, you shouldn't have issues later on. Maybe some one will chime in with a "removeable" installation method, but as far as I know, the only type of sink that you can uninstall without disturbing other components is a drop in....See MoreVery discouraged about sink options: Shaw's farm sink a mistake?
Comments (31)I have had my fireclay sink with a garbage disposal for more than a year. I have 3 teenage sons who are NOT gentle and I use the sink and disposal multiple times a day. After reading some negatives about fireclay, I have put on bright lights and readers to see if there are any hairline cracks, scratches etc. - and after 15 months - NOTHING. The sink still looks brand new. My contractor was careful not to over tighten the disposal - and I use sponges designed not to scratch and softscrub when needed - but the fireclay surface is so smooth and easy to wipe clean. I chose the Alfi Shortwall because I had limited space, wanted a double sink - but also didn't want pan handles sticking out. It is an ideal solution. At the time I purchased the sink, they did not make custom grids, but after reading some negatives about fireclay, I bought cheap rubbermaid grids from Amazon.com. They have been awesome and have provided me with a lot of peace of mind. Bluebath now carries custom grids for my sink, but I really don't see the need. The rubbermaid grids are hinged for easy access to the drain/disposal - and after more than a year, they still look great. I pop them in the DW occasionally to sanitize them. I absolutely love my fireclay sink with disposal and I think you will love yours too. Here is a link that might be useful: Rubbermaid Sink Grid $12.00...See Moreshelayne
13 years agolilydixie
13 years agosabjimata
13 years agopalimpsest
13 years agobayareafrancy
13 years agoBefore Bondo (gaps at sides, corners, and bottom):
(I also bondo'ed those gaps you see between the cabs and my beloved, droopy, saggy original douglas fir floors.)
Bondo was easy peasy to do. I taped sink. Mixed bondo stuff in a baggie so I could squeeze it out like frosting. Smoothed with metal blade. Sanded when dry.
Right curved "corner" and side:
Left "corner" plus bottom (sink was quite lopsided and had to be shimmed to be straight, so gap at one side of bottom):
I can't find any pix of it painted. But it looks great! Of course, this only works with painted cabs.
hth!
:-)
francy
shelayne
13 years agosombreuil_mongrel
13 years agobrickmanhouse
13 years agobayareafrancy
13 years ago
Circus Peanut
13 years agoMy finish carpenter friend, who is a genius and no you can't have him until he finishes framing my range hood, scribed my Whitehaus farm sink perfectly. Since it's stained cabinetry, I hadn't even thought of caulking it - hmmm. No issues with it uncaulked in the two years since install, at any rate. We don't have kids & their attendant sink hijincks, but my OCD guy does give its ability to withstand dishwater a good workout.
Can't find a good pic at the moment, but here's a shot. I warmly recommend doing a drip rail underneath, not that we needed it for hiding the cut, but it would cover a multitude of scribing sins if necessary. We made ours out of extra cabinet wood, but I've seen some lovely ones in marble and soapstone.
palimpsest
13 years agosombreuil_mongrel
13 years agoI failed to put my comment in context. When I referred to "cabinetmaker", I failed to qualify it by saying "small shop cabinetmakers" not intending to imply that I meant cabinet manufacturers.
When I indicted carpenters/cabinet installers, for their lousy workmanship, that needed no qualification.
Filler isn't acceptable even on painted cabinets.
My own job of scribing my own sink:
A playing card can't pass through the scribe.
Some members here may recall I'm a historic preservation carpenter.
If manufacturers could, they would provide a template. Two factors play into why they do not; the farm sinks are molded, then fired after drying. In the drying process they deform slightly from the shape of the mold. The ones deemed unusable are culled out, but every sink is uniquely shaped to some degree.
Secondly, no two intstalls are exactly alike; the sectional profile of the sink would be different at any given point. If you choose to install it with a 1 1/2" overhang, it's not the same shape at the faceframe as if it were installed at a 1" overhang. The installer has to make the scribing template on site for each installation. So, essentially I'm bemoaning the laziness or ignorance of those who would embark on this kind of installation freehand, and leave the ruins to the homeowner.
BTW, my sink base is one specifically designed for apron sinks, from Conestoga.
A lot of contractors seem to be over-promising and under-delivering.
Caseybayareafrancy
13 years agoCircus Peanut
13 years agoHa! Thanks, Francy. I think it started out life as the door panel of a base cabinet -- we sliced and diced my recycled cabs so many times I lost track. I do remember being worried about matching the stain.
One thing in favor of a drip rail are the flatter bottoms of non-Shaws farm sinks.
It is odd that manufacturers don't take these sinks more into account; I suspect that it's part "prefab need not apply" snobbery and part what palimpsest points out: just too hard to standardize for handmade sinks. Most cabinetry lines seem to carry a farm sink base now, though, with the doors lower down and top panel ready to be scribed.
We used a spare wall-oven cabinet and cut down doors from elsewhere to fit.
The advantage to a drip rail made of countertop material (solid surface, soapstone, granite etc) would be its water-resilience. Apologies for not remembering whose this is, but I love it. Here you can see that the sink fit between side cabinetry, doesn't look scribed at all. I wonder how the finished product came out?
bayareafrancy