You can always Google it. Put 5.75/2 ("/2" means divided by 2) into the search box and you get "5.75 / 2 = 2.87500"

Decimals:
.0625 = one sixteenth
.125 = one eighth
.1875 = three sixteenths
.25 = one quarter
.3125 = five sixteenths
.375 = three eighths
.4375 = seven sixteenths
.5 = one half
.5625 = nine sixteenths
.625 = five eighths
.6875 = eleven sixteenths
.75 = three quarters
.8125 = thirteen sixteenths
.875 = seven eighths
.9375 = fifteen sixteeths
1 = one

Closer than that I doubt you can measure. But the easy way to count it off is to count it off. For instance 5.75 is 2 plus a half plus a quarter plus an eighth if you just look at the big lines on the measure tape, then the next biggest, etc.

So you mark the center point. Then you just measure one and seven eighths inches to either side.

Does any of that help?

I am good with the quarter inches but it is the eights that throw me off.

Ok, I have the measurements issue solved. I went to google and then to your chart and have the exact lengths figured out. My problem is how to find those measurements on the tape measure. I might need to buy a tape measure that has the eights marked with numbers instead of just lines. The guy working at Lowes had one that he used when he was measuring the blinds I was having cut to the length I needed. Any other good advice?

Sure, get the tape that makes it easy for you! Much better than struggling!!

On most tapes and rulers the longest line (other than the whole number one) is the half inch. The shortest one is the sixteenth inch. The second longest is the quarter, and the second shortest is the eighth. I find that an easier way to think of it rather than trying to figure out between the middle ones which is which.

Oh, and since the chart is in order, you can also read .4375 as one quarter plus one eighth plus one sixteenth. Just look at the chart and starting at the top find the biggest fraction below your number--that's one of them, then the next biggest, and the next until you reach your number. Biggest fraction mean lowest number name--i.e., a fourth is bigger than an eighth because 4 is a lower number than 8. (Lower number means divided into less pieces--four pieces of pie rather than 8, a quarter of a pie is bigger than an eighth, which is half of a quarter.)

So, do you have any sketch paper, butcher paper, kraft paper, freezer paper, or even paper bags? If so, carefully measure out your drawer sizes and cut them out. Then measure out the centers and make dots where the holes for the screws go. Use something pointy like a pin or icepick to make a little hole on the screw dots. Then lay this template over the drawer front and make your pencil dots through the holes.

NOW it's time to measure. Make sure that the dots are really in the right place and make a new dot when it's not quite right. Erase the old dot before you forget which is the wrong one. Much easier than trying to hold the tape and make the dot in the right place on two axes (horizontal and vertical). If you already have one dot it's easier to see where the right one should go on the tape measure if there's a problem.

Now that you have your dots, line up the edge of your level with them and make sure the bubble is centered. Use an awl or nail to tap the dots and make big dents. Check with the level again. Your pulls aren't very wide, so it won't be that noticeable if they're a little off, but it's much better if they're level! OTOH, also make sure that it doesn't look out of line with the edge of the drawer. The drawer might be a little askew itself.

Now drill.

It really is worth the whole long process. I once was in a hurry and forgot to measure something, and it came out perfectly. Once. I was blown away. Right is just as random as wrong. But that doesn't happen but once. :)

Oh, yeah! Forgot this one. You can count out your measurements on your tape before you start on the drawers and mark the correct lines with a piece of tape. Just don't cover the line.

Go to one of the big box stores and buy a cabinet hardware template. You should be able to find one with all the measurements already done. All you need to do is find the horizontal center of the drawer, and the template will position the holes you need to drill. Sugest you mark with an awl, then drill the holes, rather than drill through the template.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{!gwi}}

Also, I find that working in metric really is much easier when measuring in the kitchen. I can't convert metric, but I find it is much easier with using a "base 10" rather than a "base 16" - much easier to count 10 lines than 16ths. Of course svwillow's way is much easier.

Oh, cool! I didn't know they had premade templates!! (Haven't done it myself in a long time...)

svwillow1- I have that template and used it to put the knobs on my cabinets, but the drawers are too wide to use the template. It really just works on cabinets.

Do you want it in the exact middle? That's easiest. This is how I'd do it:

Put a big chunk of masking tape in the approximate middle.

To find the center of a drawer, draw an X connecting the corners. (Only need to mark it where the tape is.)

Where the lines meet is the exact middle. Get a level to make a line going horizontally through the middle (assuming your drawers are installed level). Do your holes along the middle of that line. I'd mark the length of the holes on a notecard or something so I wouldn't have to mess with a tape measure more than once. I'd make sure the spots on the tape looked right, and lined up with the drawers above and below, and then drill.

The X makes it less mathy.

It's kinda scary...good luck.

fori -THANK YOU! This idea sounds wonderful! I am going to try this!! I'll let you know how it goes!!

Here's a tip/trick. If you have an uneven fraction to divide, like 19 15/64", I use a technique I call divide and eyeball. I use the nearest whole fraction, in this case 9 1/2" (9 1/2 x2=19), and mark this distance in from both sides of the drawer. Then it's a simple matter to visually "split the difference" and place a tick mark at the visual center between the two earlier marks. This is also very nearly idiot proof.
Another hardware tip. Drawer pulls: if you want them to appear as if they were vertically centered on the drawer front, in practice make them 1/8" higher than the actual center line. This gives them a subtle lift and makes up for the perspective issue (we are taller than drawers, and almost always are looking downward at them).
Casey

Just draw it and have an unbiased eye check it out before drilling, and Casey is probably right about faking the height. And cross your fingers and stuff.

They faked the straightness of the Parthenon columns too, so it's not cheating!

Thanks everyone! I have been busy trying "fori's" trick and like "sombreuil_mongrel" said I am off by 1/16 of an inch since the distance between the two pull screws is an uneven number (3.75 inches). I am going to try the eyeball split the difference method and also have my husband drill just above the mark I made on the drawer like you also suggested. Oh, and I will cross my fingers, pray and do the draw pull dance!

OK,
If you have two-hole hardware, make a paper (or plywood) template with the spacing laid out perfectly, and a mark or notch exactly centered between them. Then you can align it on your centerline. It you add a fence across the top, it will also space the holes down the exact amount and give consistency. And, BTW, they sell an inexpensive plastic template for this purpose, and several adjustable, more costly ones.
Casey

Make your own jig from cardboard or posterboard or whatever thick paper or plastic you have lying around the house. I've used gift boxes before. It's much easier working with a template than it is to measure each and every drawer. Templates are what the pros use, and it's one of the reasons they are so quick.