You'll have better luck in the kitchens forum as opposed to the remodeling forum

Little bit of commentary explaining some thoughts. And that's all these are. The number below are the numbers on the pic. 1. I'm guessing you wouldn't be talked outta those stairs, but that's an alternative - do a doorway in the living room into "closet" of laundry hall. 2. I did show this alternative - kill the inside basement stairs and move the ref to this wall. There's likely 101 reasons you wouldn't like this, but its a really GREAT place for the ref. I think I can hear your screams of "Nooo!" all the way in Baltimore. 3. Aisle widths. Aisles are measured counter to counter. Roughly a counter on a base cabinet on a wall is 25" to 26" deep. An island with one row of cabinetry is usually at least 29" wide at the counter level - this includes a panel on the backs of the cabinets and appropriate overhangs. If You use a tall bank of either shelving or closed cabinets that are 12" deep, your two aisles are about 39". The current recommended minimum aisle is 42" (It changed several years ago - I think partly on account of tall tub dishwashers and 36" wide refrigerators). If you try to have full depth cabinets(25" at the counter) or even a counter depth refrigerator(~28" w/handles) on the opposite wall with the island, both your aisles go down to 31"-33". They might be less depending on "stuff" like how plumb the room is, the exact depth of the ref, etc. That can feel kinda small. You should be able to move something into your existing kitchen to lower the aisle space to try it. 4. Table space. Concerned about the choice of table, simultaneous use of the table and back door, etc. With a 2 foot wide table, with no one occupying the table, it will be 4.5 feet wide and the table edge should be 30" from the wall or 5.2ish feet. When occupied, the wall side has enough space for a seated person(24" beyond the table edge), but when someone sits on the door side, the total width is 6 feet - all the space there is. Assuming that you guys or your friends may not be perfect about tucking in chairs, think about doing either a banquette or purchasing a dining bench for the side up against the wall. It helps with spacing, but might drive you nutz in alignment to the window and wall area. So if you put the bench under the window and run the table in the other direction? 5. Consider moving the range (sorry for calling it a rangetop) closer to the sink and island. I know somebody is thinking about prep between sink and range, but you're more likely to prep on end of island. It's less effort for getting pots full of water and dumping them. 6. Consider a fold-up or drop-in counter to be used only when you need some extra space instead of slightly blocking the stairs all the time.

Good information, Rosie. Thank you. I have definitely been focused on the "form" not the "function". I've been picturing the room, not working within it. I know it does sound gluttonous to want 2 of everything. To try to justify, we live in a quasi-remote area so I definitely hit the "big city" to stock up, hence needing two fridge/freezers, plus weekly produce from CSA. And with one sink front and center, two dishwashers are intended to be a place to stash and clean everything including pots and pans so there's not much out in the open. I do like the idea of putting a DW on other side; unfortunately, the only water on the range wall is a pot filler so I don't know how easily a drain could be added for DW. Taking away pantries on ends of run, I could have about 49" of base cab to work with, split 24 for DW and a 24 drawer next to range. On the island there is room for a 24 or 27" base cab, preferably drawers, at end after side by side DWers. This could be knives on top and every day dishes below, leaving the range wall flanking drawers for baking dishes, pots and pans and food storage containers with cooking utensils in top drawers. Small appliances in pantry. I feel my prep will be split between island and next to range. Non cooked items on the island (salads, school lunches, pre-prep not for immediate cooking) and by the range for items to be cooked right then. Right now it all happens in a 2x3 corner btw sink and range so I've vowed to not have "corners" in this kitchen!! I'm determined to have the space emote serenity, not frantic, crowded clutter! The pantry is to house items not for daily use and food. (and the microwave apparently, which is fine, I try not to use it for much but others in family insist there be one). With no basement or garage, this room will definitely be utilized fully.

What is your ceiling height? The can size and lumens? That is important in determining the strength of lumens delivered at the work surfaces. I would consider aligning your rows of three in the kitchen portion; the symmetry may be more pleasing, especially since you have beams. Some people favor grids, others favor function oriented. Yours is sort of neither (e.g., not centered on the fridge or sink). I'd also look at the depth of the beams and the beam spread of your selected cans/bulbs. Too close and you can end up with shadows and loose some of the light that you intended. I agree with luckymommy that three is too many pendants; even small ones. And small ones don't throw off a lot of light, so you may want to add another in the center. You are also sparse at the dining end, depending on how multi-purpose that end will be -- you might need another can between the island and the chandy if you lose that center pendant. Maybe the experts here or in the lighting forum can discuss tradeoffs with the appropriate distances and heights. The 6 to 8 feet between some of the lights is a bit far, especially if you are using 2 to 4" cans.