Look for a thread that says "New To Kitchens? Posting Pics? Read Me!..." or, click here. I have no paint color advice--I used 'Adobe White', an off-white in the creamy range. Here's a link to pics of my soffit, painted the same color (satin finish), with trim painted in the same soft gloss as the cabinets: Here is a link that might be useful: Adobe white cabinets, soffit, trim

This is timely because I have similar cabinets. I've been looking for whites that aren't too bright. I just got an estimate from a cabinet painter; his proposal included 2 coats of oil-based primer and then 2 coats of either oil or water-based paint. Here's what I've found in other threads: BM Linen White: SW Alabaster: SW Casa Blanca: SW Dover White: Here is a link that might be useful: Instructions on painting cabinets

I filled holes with wood filler and sanding. Actually I don't think the putty is intended for painting over. I'm not sure what type of BM paint you painted with, but Satin Impervo Waterbourne should last many years and is specifically for cabinets and woodwork. If you didn't use that type before, I'd recommend using that this time. It has a gentle gloss, glossier than a typical satin. My cabinets have a semi gloss type of sheen and feel smooth, not chalky. Latex is acrylic just like oil is alkyd. My opinion, and I've seen this opinion expressed on other forums, is that there is no reason to use oil paint inside with the high quality latex out there today. Also, oil yellows with time while latex does not. So, if you are worried about yellowing, definitely don't go with oil. If you use Satin Impervo , you do not need a clear coat over it unless you use a glaze treatment. If you glaze the cabinets, clear coat with polycrylic, not polyurethane to avoid yellowing. With satin impervo, it worked best for me to load it up with a lot of paint quickly with a roller, then use a brush or foam stick to gently smooth it out. That particular type of paint does not lend well to overbrushing. However, I've seen professional painters on this forum say they prefer brushing it all on. We non professionals like the roller first.) The roller by itself leaves the orange peel affect. I think I've covered all your questions with the exception of paint color. I think chantilly lace might work for you, but I'm not as familiar with all the choices as are others on these forums.

I never apply more than one coat of primer. As long as you give it a full coat, you shouldn't need to. I always opt to apply multiple finish coats instead of multiple coats of primer because finish paint will fill more and cover better. The primer is just used to solve the initial adhesion issue. The thing about railings is that sometimes they are bolted on with a lag bolt and other times it may just be two nails on each side. If it's nailed, it shouldn't be too bad to remove. Yes, you can get Sheetrock Plus 3 at Home Depot. I like the stuff that is tinted yellow, but I believe you can only get that in 5 gallon boxes. Plus 3 is the one with the blue lid. You probably just want to smear it on over the grain with your finger and then when it's dry you can sand it smooth. The hardest part about this technique is that you do not want to push it into the deep grain....you want to sort of float the compound over the top of the grain so that when you sand, you end up with a flush surface. It's best to use a broken in sanding block to sand with as the stuff will sand really easily...it's really lightweight.