If the batting material is clean and in good shape, I would keep it. If it is smooshed down, I would add another layer of the batting. You should be able to get it or something similar at JoAnn's.
Diane

Hi Brutuses, If it's clean, you can leave it and apply another layer of batting or a layer of foam on top.
I always change the foam when reupholtering, or if the peice calls for batting and the original batting is clean, I add extra batting.
BTW -- Dacron batting is easier to work -- and we uually first put foam then a layer of Dacron batting.
Joann

Thanks Diane and Joann. I see it is 2 thicknesses of cotton batting, the old and a new layer I suppose the person who did this covering put on. I think I will put a thin layer of foam between the two to help soften it. Do you think that would be OK?

Yes, to clarify how we do dining room chairs, first we put a layer of foam, then a layer of Dacron batting on top of the foam. This will provide a nice firm surface for the fabric. Leave the old batting underneath (if it's clean)
and apply the foam first, then the Dacron batting on top of the foam.
Do the chairs have welt on the cushions sewn on the top and bottom, or just welt on the bottom?

Joann, I don't see any welting that you speak of. The stuffing is just old cotton stuffing (for lack of a better term). I can take a photo of it, if you'd like.

Take a pic, Brutuses, just to be sure. I want to learn too. ;)

Will do tomorrow. I'm too bleery eyed tonight. Did I spell bleery correctly? LOL

Brutuses, Even if it's a slip seat cushion, it would benefit from having welt on the bottom.
This is not a slip seat cushion, but and example of
a welt on the bottom and a big fat piece of foam on the seat with Dacron batting on top of the foam.
When upholstering (a slip seat) I always use thicker foam than I think I need...you pull the fabric extremely tight, thus crushing down the foam.
I picked up this sleeping beauty up at good will...I was broken and loose, but when I saw that lyre back I knew it was my chair waiting for me. We glued and clamped it and refinished it. I had the fabric left over from my Living Room chair...

This is it, after refinishing.

after it was upholstered.
I made leopard welt to match the pillow that I made for the back of this chair.
As I said, I tend to use very thick form, after the fabric is pulled tightly, it's not so thick anymore...you also need to pay attention to keeping the fabric straight when stapling it -- even a fabric without a pattern. This fabric has a subtle stripe, however if it were applied slightly crooked it would be noticeable.

Joann, now I understand what you're talking about. Your cover goes completely over the seat. My cover is just on the seat and stapled on the back. I like the way ou covered yours but wouldn't know how to do that. We are not experienced in upolstering like you are. We're luck we know how to staple fabric. LOL Thanks for yoru help.

Here is a photo of the stuffing. Note, the chair seat is sitting on top of my office chair not the chair it belongs on.

{{!gwi}}

{{!gwi}}

bump for Joann and TH

brutuses, Lucky for you, this is the perfect beginner chair to upholster. Do you have a photo of the chair before you removed the fabric?
It's a slip seat. First cover the existing chair with a piece of foam over the existing batting...(2" foam would be nice) then cover the foam with a layer of Dacron. Stable the foam and Dacron to the wood. Lay out your fabric then lay the seat on top of the fabric (upside down) Pull very taunt as you staple the fabric on, paying attention to keeping the fabric straight both ways. The foam and Dacron will compress and you'll get a nice rounded look. Lastly staple on the welt, You can sew the welt from the same fabric, or buy existing weld or colorful welt trim. I will take some pic's tomorrow of slip seats we have done.
Joann

Went through the archives and and found this example of two chairs that are slip seats.
The one on the left has no welt, and on the right, has store bought decorative welt.
I prefer the welt. I guess I was lazy when I did then chair on the left.

We upholstered this chair for our Daughter's secretary.
It belonged to hubby's Grandmother. It's cherry and was in Gawd awful shape. The seat was already tufted, we tufted the back to match. The welt is the same fabric.
She loved the chair.

Joann, thanks so much. I love that chair for the secretary. That is precious. I guess you missed when I posted the chair. Here it is for you to see with the old cover.

I now understand what you mean about the welting. I have a question and please don't laugh. Like I said previously, I'm not experienced in upholstering. Do I wrap the foam and dacron to the back and staple it there? Is its' length a little shorter than the fabric to help keep the bulk down? Thanks again for your help.

Oh my, Gorgeous chair...They will be beautiful, when there done, I can't wait to see them!

First smooth out the batting that is there.
place a piece of foam over the top at least 1" thick
2" thick is even better. Cut the foam to the size of the seat. Then on top of that place a piece of Dacron Batting
(over sized). Turn everything over and staple the over sized Dacron batting to the underside of the wood. Make sure you pull it tight and smooth, this will round out the edges of the foam and give you a nice smooth base.

Next is the fabric. Pay attention to the pattern (if there is a pattern) so all the chairs match)
Place the fabric face down on the counter and place your seat on top of it and begin stapling on the fabric. You have to pull tightly as your stapling. If you get any wrinkles or it is not perfectly straight, remove staples and pull some more.

I would put welting, but it's your choice. I buy regular thin cording at Home Depot, rather than the cotton cording they sell at the fabric stores for welting. I like my welt to have body and be nice and crisp on the chairs.
After the chairs are covered, then you apply the welt with the staple gun. Start at the center back of the chair When the welting meets cut it about 3/4" oversize, then cut out the cording on the 3/4 oversize just until it meets the
other cording, then overlap the fabric on the cording on the part that you cut over sized (turning under the raw edge) Then finish stapling it. This sounds confusing, I'm sure, but if you look at any finished piece on your furniture you'll see what I mean about joining the two pieces of welt together to get a professional look.

Here is a good link for making welt. There are two things you must do, cut the fabric on the bias and join (sew) the strips together as displayed in these directions.

Here is a link that might be useful: How to make welting

Ooo, this will be a fun transformation, Bru!! Beautiful work, Joann--it's good to have you on these boards. Thanks for posting all the pics, both of you. :)

Thank you TH...
I hope my welting directions were clear.
If you look on the chair we did for our daughter, you'll see the advantage of using regular cording instead of the thin cotton welting sold in the fabric stores.
Here is another example of the regular cording used for welt.
Regular cotton welting would'nt have this nice and crisp finished look. In my opinion anyhow. Besides it's a lot cheaper to but a roll of thin (but firm) cording at Home Depot, then buy cotton welting by the yard. Just make sure it's not stiff but plyable and bendable.

Joann thanks so much for all the instructions. Problem with the welting is I don't have a sewing machine and if I did I'm not sure I could make it. Sewing is not one of my talents. Thanks for telling me how to attach the foam and dacron.

This project won't happen over night as none of mine do, but as soon as it's finished I'll post pictures.

Thanks again.

Brutuses, you can buy decorative cording (welt trim) that has fabric strips sewn on (looks just like welt). Here is an example, I used it on the back of the bunny. They also have solid welt trim like this. You can pick a solid color to match your fabric.

Oh my...You don't have to sew the welt!!! I just remembered this...just create your own welt and staple it as you go along...no sewing is necessary..(put the cord between the fabric strip and staple right up to the cord under the chair!)this can only be done on the bottom of the chair, (it couldn't be done on a pillow or cushion for example)...so You don't have to sew to get a professional job! I hope this is clear...just get your staples close if you do this, you almost have to put staple to staple and
keep tension on the fabric as you pull it along and staple it, so that you get no wrinkles.
Practice first on a sample piece of wood. It's not hard to do, and practice makes perfect!

Thanks again Joann. I will give it a shot and hope I can pull it off. Of course I have to count on DH to do the stapling because my arthritis won't let me. Depending on his patience level, will be the deciding factor on the welting. LOL