It depends on the rose and the problem. I've found that I can accommodate a rose that isn't the color I'd hoped, or isn't the size I'd hoped (although I do try to move them) and I'll try for years. I can't bring myself to remove a healthy rose. But a rose that clearly isn't going to be healthy for me? Early removal is better than later. Blackspot is here to stay, sadly, so severely affected roses need to go bye-bye. Roses that aren't tolerant to heat and humidity also can't stay. Neither are roses that, for no good reason, begin to commit suicide as soon as they cross the property line. I watch slow growers. I try moving them. I give them more than a year, a lot more if they're generally healthy. But if they can't do what they're supposed to do here, we need to part company. I have several that I received this year, still in pots, that will need to find a new home. One, a Biltmore rose that I thought would surely be at home here, has gone through several cycles of leaf loss due to blackspot. Another came to me with chlorosis and it hasn't improved much. I will give it a little more time and see if it can get better. A third seems to be entirely unhappy here, although I've tried moving it and even repotting it. It will improve for a time, but then lose its leaves and look pathetic again. Surprising to me, since it was hybridized in Tennessee. I have only so much time, space and energy to put toward roses so they need to be able to thrive here. If they can't do that, I figure that I shouldn't have them and they shouldn't be here. I haven't always felt this way, but over time, I've realized that saying yes to a sickly rose or one that will never thrive means saying no to a rose that would be happy and do well here.

Hi Kasie, I don't know what to do here. Now my plants have not gone into dormacy, most are in full leaf and some putting out new leaves and claws, in this cool weather!!! Cause of the low temps, rain and wind, have brought in all my plants in 5 gal. cans. I have severe tip damage on several but do not know if they are dormant or not, no leaves, died..came off. now do not know if I should put them in a corner and forget about them or not??? water like dormacy, do not remember..did not happen this way last year.. of my 5 plants in the ground cannot protect them cause of winds and rains, am so sad Aztec gold has crystalized and the entire top is white. Expect there tip damage and who knows. Kaulda Wilder in ground is black tips..brown branches. rest in ground not sure, raining. dam. want those to be ok.. Plus have two in large containers with tip damage. Nothing like Karyn, breaks my heart her damage. Karen B..

I think you are misunderstanding what BM means when they say you do not need to prime with Aura. I like to think of painting options in terms of a system. The best system with any washable paint would be prime coat plus two finish coats. This is three total coats. The next best system would be prime coat plus one finish coat. That would be two total coats. So, when Aura says you can skip the primer, all that they are saying is that you can replace the primer coat with the Aura itself. It doesn't really mean that you can completely skip the primer coat entirely....you are just going to substitute the primer with Aura. Does that make sense? I know it is hard to explain. So, really when you use Aura as your primer it is actually costing you more money because primer is cheaper than Aura to actually buy. If I were pricing a new home for painting, I would recommend one prime coat plus two coats of Aura. Be careful with your builder when you are discussing the Regal price point. The Regal line has a flat paint in it which is not a washable product. It's called Regal Wall Satin. In fact, I don't even like the phrase 'Regal price point' at all and would not want it in the contract....it's too vague. Your builder really needs to specify which Regal product is the price point...Regal Eggshell, Regal Matte, etc. The difference in price between applying Regal Wall Satin and applying Regal Eggshell could be huge if we are talking about an entire house. As for when to actually put the colors in the rooms, I think that is largely a personal decision. You are going to hear both views on this of course, but I personally would like to actually live in the house for a bit before picking colors in the important rooms if possible, especially if you are considering using an expensive paint like FPE. You may not know or have selected your window treatments yet or picked out furniture or you may not be able to visualize the carpet until it is actually in, plus an empty house under construction just looks like that when it is being built. It doesn't look like a home yet. Some builders even recommend to wait a year for any settlement cracks to appear, screws to pop before coloring your rooms....I know a year is a long time to wait and some people want the decorating done before move-in for sheer convienence, but I'm just rattling off things to consider.

Glad other folks don't go strictly by the "soil worked" statement. zeedman, I'm actually over 100 miles south of you. I'm pretty close to the bottom of Lake Michigan- I probably should have said so in my first post. So I'm not sure if that will make a difference or not with timing. And not anything to do with the conversation at hand, but I miss camping at High Cliff. forgotten- I didn't realize I could sprout my peas. I figured since they aren't supposed to like transplanting, that meant I couldn't sprout them either. I am so going to do this with some of my peas this year. How long do they take to sprout? I would be doing them in my 65 degreeish dining room where I have south facing windows for a little extra warm if the sun ever comes out again, lol. farmerdill- I didn't realize there were smooth and wrinkley peas. All of mine look kind of smooth like the Alaskas, so I think maybe I'm good with adverse conditions peas. My beds are pretty good draining- a mix of horse compost, leaves and grass clippings, and sandy loam that gets stirred up every spring, and put to bed with another layer of leaves in the fall. Some are raised beds, and others are lasagne beds, kind of like raised beds without the outside box because I heap them in deep.