4 x 6 Powder Room - Measurement Questions
skews
16 years ago
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skews
16 years agoSueb20
16 years agoRelated Discussions
2x6 versus 2x4framing?
Comments (12)"Our floor plan shows 2x4 framing, if we wanted to switch to 2x6's would we need to have the plan redrawn or would the builder be able to install windows/doors without too much adjustment? Thanks!" What stage are you at? If you don't have your zoning and building permits yet, you should ask them what they require. They are the ones that can tell you what is required. If you already have your permits and they were approved for 2x4 walls, then upgrading to 2x6 walls should be allowable but you'll need to find out from your local code authority if you need to do anything different with them to document this structual change and if you need to change your drawings. We can only guess. They are the ones that can tell you what you can and can't do. This may or may not help you but I'll share it anyway. We are in the planning stages of our build. We are considering and pricing different options. One has to do with insulation and exterior walls. If we use 2x6 walls, we'll use fiberglass insulation. If we use 2x4 walls we'll use expanding foam (like Icynene) insulation. I have only compared the lumber and drywalls costs so far and this is the part that might help you. With my local lumber and drywall prices, 2x4 exterior walls are 21% less expensive than 2x6 walls both on 16" centers. Windows are made for 2x4 walls. When you use them in 2x6 walls, you need to add jamb extensions to your window order. I believe that the prices vary depending on window specifics and have not priced it yet to add to the overall cost difference. But with that said, I would expect even more savings with 2x4 walls due to this difference in costs. If you are already under contract with a builder, expect a heavty change order fee to upgrade from 2x4 walls to 2x6 walls. I hope my babbling helped someone....See More2x4 or 2x6 for insulation
Comments (14)I have to jump in just to agree some other things that have been said. I finished my house up a few months ago, helping with the entire project. Insulation is not hard or terribly mysterious. I am solidly with 2x6 construction. It makes for a solid house, and gives the room for the extra and affordable fiberglass. I also used ZipWall sheathing, which may not add much R factor, but sure is a good product. I have a little bit of spray foam in a vaulted ceiling, which I'm very satisfied with, but the stuff is so expensive and much harder to install, which has to add to the cost. Caulk is huge. Get out there yourself if you have to and caulk everything imaginable. Its easy, but other people will not care as much as you do. The cans of spray foam come in handy for big gaps. Caulk, stuff insulation, lay down insulation anywhere you can. We're in the midst of this blizzard in Oklahoma, and the house is warm and draft free....See MoreAnyone have a TINY (like 3'x6') powder room??
Comments (16)Such a timely post. My powder room is 3 by 7. The door is in the middle , to the right is the pedestal sink (18 inches deep by 22 inches wide) and across from it is the toilet. I am thinking about updating it (it's 20 plus years old, and a pinkish beige). I have toyed with getting a small vanity because truthfully while I like the look and space of th epedestal sink, it would be nice to have a wee bit of storage. I went to Lowe's yesterday and they had some very very nice small vanities (31 inches wide and under-). I am trying to decide if they could work in my space or if I just need to stick with a pedestal sink.In any case, it is a small room but it's not too small:)...See Morediy bs question: 4x8 vs 3x6 subways
Comments (10)Like live_wire_oak said, a standard backsplash is 18". So, in theory, a 3" tile will go up 6 times with no cuts. However, not all 3" tiles are exactly 3". If they are, you'll be cutting some because grout lines might add 1/2-1" that would need to be cut off at the top. Some are nominally 3", and they account for a grout line. But then, not all counters and cabinets are perfectly level. I used 3" tiles that accounted for a grout line, and still had to make a few top cuts. But, my top cuts are minimal. You can't tell it's not a full tile unless you look really closely under the cabinets. In robotroplis' GORGEOUS kitchen, you can see at a glance that her top row of tiles is cut in half. Technically, you wouldn't want a half size (or smaller) tile anywhere. The pro tip would be to measure and figure out what the size of the last tile would be and divide the left over tile between the top and bottom rows. So then you'd have 2 rows of tile to cut. But I still think robotropolis' backsplash looks fantastic. And, standard, schmandard. Maybe your backsplash isn't even 18"? So, yeah, a 3" tile is more DIY friendly. But it's probably not enough of a deal to justify getting something you don't like anyway....See Moreyborgal
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