I sure hope you mean at least 3/16th. When you order just doors, you have to order them 3/32nds smaller than the opening. So figuring that out, dividing it by 1/2 for each side? 3/8ths would be something I'd return. Now here's another question. Are the spaces around the doors the same all the way around? It's possible they're not centered in their frame. When I put in my doors, I take a zip tie and cut it into about 3" pieces. I then painter's tape it along the inside of the frame. When I set the door or drawer front in, the space around my door and drawer front is even. Yours might need some adjusting up or down, side to side. BTW. Your cabinest are lovely. Despite the gap that really doesn't show in the photo (sorry. I DO believe you! :) they're sooo pretty. Looks like you got a good guy! Talk with him.

Ha - yes, they deleted their comment, it seems. They told me I didn't deserve new cabinets because of a decision I didn't like and that I tried to put lipstick on a pig or something.

Andrew, Good to hear all is well now. Although not integrated, I had the similar dilemma even though I selected the refrigerators, ordered a trim kit, designed the cabinets, despite, due to the cabinet manufacturer limitation, had to opt for shorter top cabinets resulting in a 2” gap above the top trim and about 3/4” gap on both sides; I felt I’d figure it out later. At additional and significant cost, I ordered several pieces of 3”x3/4”x96” cabinet trim; I completed the trim around the trim job last weekend. Looks perfect and original. Took me a few months to get around to doing it but unpacked my miter saw and a bunch of other tools last week and got the job done. Feel proud knowing I have not lost my woodworking skills. Before and after

I'm sorry but you have a 'guy' doing this and not a professional flooring installer. That is issue #1 but it is not THE issue. The single greatest issue is the complexity of your trim. As much as you wish to preserve the trim, it is not possible with this type of installation. To preserve the trim, it should have been removed and reinstalled over top of the floor. This is normally not an option for most people because it involves repainting the trim...and often the walls. So the next real life option would have been to undercut the trim. A wood floor requires an expansion gap regardless of how it is installed. That means the gap must be hidden by trim. Either you undercut the existing trim to hide the gap or you install shoe/quarter round once the floor has been installed. The 'guy' tried to do it your way. Sadly his skill (possibly the budget) didn't meet the level of expectation for the finishing. As Johnson flooring suggests, the runs at the wall need to be removed, the trim undercut and then new planks installed. This is the only way to keep a clean look in your home. Or you can have all the trim removed, the last runs installed again, and the trim reinstalled. And then you will need to assess whether or not you need to paint....everything.