I'm going through that same process. Here's what was recommended to me and has worked really well. 1) Clean the trim really well with TSP Substitute (get at Home Depot). 2) Scuff sand the trim with a 220 grit sandpaper or 220 sanding sponge. I prefer the sponge because you can wet it to cut down on dust and also you can get into the little cracks better. 3) Clean thoroughly so there's no grit or dust remaining. 4) To get a clean edge between the trim and carpet, I put painter's tape as far down in between the trim and carpet as I can maneuver it. If you wedge it down, then pull it toward the carpet as you press it down, it will help to open up a gap between the carpet and trim. It's not perfect, but it's the best you're going to get. As I paint, I also jam a broad bladed putty knife down in between the trim and carpet, which also helps some. But when you release the putty knife, the carpet will spring back a bit - there's nothing you can do about that unless you untack, then retack the carpet edge. Once you're done and remove the tape, the carpet will spring back and everything will look fine. I've tried the long plastic edge shields, but found that the tape works just as well. 5) Prime the trim with something similar to SW ProBlock Alkyd Interior Quick Drying Primer/Sealer-white if you're planning to use a light paint color on the trim, gray if you're going to use a dark color-check at the store. Use a 1"-1.5" Chinex OR good quality natural bristle brush for this step. The brushes will have to be cleaned up with mineral spirits. This should cover pretty well in one coat. You might still see a little of the stain color through the primer, but it should cover pretty well. If you see a lot of the stain through the primer, sand lightly with the sanding sponge after the primer has dried, clean off the dust and reapply the primer. I have used this primer on dark walnut trim and found it covers in one coat as long as I'm not stingy with the primer application. 6) Sand primer lightly with 220 grit, clean, then you're ready for your first topcoat. I highly recommend SW ProClassic Satin Acrylic for a beautiful finish. Use a Chinex brush if you can find one or a high quality synthetic bristle meant for acrylic paints. Again, use a 1-1.5" brush. Don't put too heavy a coat of paint on. This paint tends to drip and sag if you go too heavy. Paint from the unpainted sections into the painted sections about 1". Don't overwork the paint. Brush it through once or twice to even it out, then go on. 7) Once the recoat time has passed (follow directions), sand again lightly, then put on a second coat. That should do it. It's tedious, but once it's done, you'll be very satisfied with how it looks. I'm slowly doing all the woodwork on my first floor which was all stained dark walnut, doors, windows, baseboard, chair rails, crown moulding-the works. I LOVE how it brightens up everything. I doubt I'll ever have stained woodwork again. I recommend SW paints because the store is only about a mile away from me and I get a nice family discount, but if a BM store is closer to you, I'm sure they have comparable products for this task.

What's the emoticon for rolling eyes... really? I don't know where the camera is and I don't think it would help too much would it? It's just a hole in the wall that I'm wanting to fill with cabinets, if I can possibly afford it still... I could post my plans that I'm working up; would that help?? OK, was that enough complaining? Here's a shot of one of the cavities. This one is titled "Inside one, linens" on the plans that follow below: In the picture above let me hasten to add that while our framers left much to be desired, even they were not as poor as the photo implies; the lens is just distorted at the edges. These are fairly straight lines in reality. And it's hard to see what's going on. Believe it or not all walls are the same dusty blue. The molding is on the edge that turns inside the cavity; the other edge at 90-degress, the outside of the cavity which is really a short hall, shows up as yellow in color. It's not though. So all that molding is at right angles to the "yellow" part, and would be in the way of a built in. I've sort of decided I have to use a spacer over that part and just start the drawers inset from the molding, waste though that is. On the other side which has no molding up top because it's just a wall, there is molding at the base which I'll remove altogether. Here's another shot that shows the lip of the edging. It's actually in a squirelly corner in a different room (laundry room), but the molding is the same and the problem is the same; I want to build a cabinet into that corner too: So I've pretty much decided I just have to fill all these spaces out with filler, eh? So annoying... And so what about this one -- you can see how I've cut away the ply wood that's serving as a temporary "vanity". That can't be done down the whole length of a cabinet; I think I've got to lose space behind a filler there too. I had no idea when one chose molding this would force so many other decisions!? I am decisioned out and just plain don't want to make this one. That's why I've done nothing for over a year now.... Anyway, I'd appreciate some guidance. This shouldn't be so difficult, there must be just some rule and I'd appreciate it being stated definitively: "no, thinking outside the box will cause whiplash and wind you right back inside of it anyway; there's no way out of this: slap in some wasteful filler and call it a day".... sigh. TIA.

Pop the handles off and loosen the nut that is on the faucet stem/ cartridge. (Stem is #18/ #24; loosen the nut #24, just a tad.) https://media.kingstonbrass.com/pdf/technical/parts/kingston-brass-FSC1975ACL-parts-diagram.pdf

You will need a special tool. Check with a plumbing store.