Building a platform for a freestanding range?
swaledale
10 years ago
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10 years agoswaledale
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Free-standing burner for Pressure canning?
Comments (6)I have read the attached links and I am still confused. I thought I read last year that an outdoor burner was not recommended. I have a glass top range so I need to use something else. I have a turkey fryer burner, a large burner on the propane grill, a two burner stove on folding legs that brings it up to stand-up height and it runs on a propane tank. I have a electric counter top double burner but not a professional one. I have an inside location with a concrete floor that could serve as a temporary canning kitchen and not have the heat and steam inside the house. I would love to fix an area that is perfect for canning, but I'm not quite sure how to do it. The building is a small guest house and has both gas and electricity and I even have a fairly new electric cooktop that I could add, but I think I would rather have a gas stove. By making a few changes, I could probably fit in a small gas apartment range. Natural gas is only a few feet away and so is a 220 outlet that runs a clothes dryer. I live in an area that is prone to ice storms and loss of electrity, and when that happens, we turn on the one gas heater in our house to keep the pipes from freezing, and we move to the other quarters that have gas heat and a gas water heater. We have used the two burner stove (for cooking only) inside and lived in relative comfort but it is really designed for outside. I think I will add a sink that is easy to fill large pots with, like I have in my kitchen, but the sink with have to be small. I will never have enough counter space but can always set up a folding table as a work surface, and I have one small butcher block cabinet that is mobile. A natural gas stove would give me a 'storm backup' without having to bring in the propane cook stove. Last year most of my canning was BWB but that isn't always the case. In the next couple of months I plan to complete this space so I would love to hear your thoughts and ideas. This is a small space, but I think I would like being able to can there instead of having it all over the kitchen. Ideas?...See MoreKitchenAid Freestanding Range Help
Comments (4)Thanks for the response. Good to know that the colors do match - that was one of my fears about mixing brands. The way our kitchen is situated, it will be pretty visible for guests so I do want it to look good. The 3rd brand that we've given some consideration to is GE. Would love to snag their new Cafe range but cannot justify the price. Some of their Profile options do look good but haven't seriously considered any specific one. Beyond that, I am open to ideas as long as it matches reasonably well and is a good value....See MoreFreestanding Range replacing slide-in range in 1940s house
Comments (2)Not sure I am understanding correctly, but it sounds as if the original range was a "Drop-in" style. Drop-ins are designed to rest on a pedestal in the range cutout. I have NO idea how anyone could make a regular freestanding range work sitting on a pedestal unless they themselves mounted a stepstool to cook. In any case, our house was originally equipped with a gas drop-in range. Gas drop-ins are no longer available on the market so when our original range began to give us trouble, we replaced it with a slide-in. In order to do this I had to cut out the old pedestal, move the gas and electric service to a spot where they would not interfere with the slide-in, and do some work on the flooring to get a level position for the new range. So yes, you can cut out the old pedestal, but be prepared to move gas/electric and possibly plumbing depending upon your layout. Slide-in ranges have a flanged edge designed to ride over adjoining countertop surfaces. You will want to ensure that the cutout is properly sized and of the correct height to fit your replacement range....See MoreTreehouse on a free-standing 10'x10' deck 8' off the ground
Comments (3)Q: What is the appropriate method for connecting the posts to the brackets? A: Use the fastening hardware specified by the bracket manufacturer. For ex, a Simpson AB66 requires (8) 10d nails, whereas a Simpson CBSQ comes w/ it's own SDS screws. Whatever brackets you buy, research their fastening specs. Q: Is there a preferred bracing member configuration between the post and beams for this design? A: If you're not going to run the posts down into the concrete - For stability, I would run 2x4 cross bracing in both lateral directions. From the top of one post down to the bottom of the adjacent one and alternate the other side. You end up w/ a giant 2x4 'X' between each set of posts. (5) 16d nails per end, staggering them to avoid splitting the end of the 2x4. Q: Assuming 12" oc install, it's 11 joists. 16" oc, it's 9. For the cost of two extra joists, is there any reason not to go 12" oc? A: It depends on the flooring system of your tree house. If the flooring can safely span 16", there's no need to go 12". No reason "not to go 12" except for it's a little more (unnecessary) work. Mac Here is a link that might be useful: My deck blog...See Moredebrak2008
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