For me it's a no brainer and I have an IKEA kitchen. Boos... and I'd say that even if the price was double the difference.

Birch is much, much softer than maple. Warping isn't a problem with either if properly handled.

Your handyman will still charge you something to cut the ikea top. Factor in that charge and the prices get even closer together. You will be happier with the Boos imo.

thanks all! it's looking like the boos will be my best bet at the end of the day (i.e. once i'm done paying for everything :)

i had brunch w/a friend though & she really thinks long term it would be better for me to go w/the oiled finish vs varnique. eek! now another decision. i'm always cutting fruits & veggies for my little ones so maybe it's not such a bad idea.

If you want to cut right on it, yes, you need an oil finish. The varnique is like waterlox or tung oil, meant for counters you just use as counters, not as cutting zones.

Also, if you plan on cutting directly on it, you'll want to look at end grain rather then edge grain. Much more $$$ though

We had to cut our IKEA block down to 49 x 25 (it's actually 49 5/8" x 25 5/8") and it was a pain (delayed us for weeks b/c we don't have a table saw and had to wait for our cabinetmaker to have time to stop by and do it for us, and it also took some precision on his part to cut such a small amount off!) Getting one the right dimensions is well worth it, I think. We looked at the Boos and I liked their wood a lot...our issue was needing 49" so we would have had to get the 60" one and cut it down, which was dumb/expensive. If your sizing is perfect, go for it!

I'll also say on the birch---we have a freestanding IKEA butcher block in birch leftover from our pre-remodel kitchen, and I'm fairly certain the birch IKEA uses is a European birch that's much higher on the Janka scale than American birch is (about equivalent to hard maple, if I remember from when we were researching it). It's held up fine to cutting directly on it. BUT it is a very cool yellowish birch as a result---not something I would mix with cherry floors. We chose the beech instead for our new kitchen, where we had douglas fir and natural cherry in the mix. It leans to the warm rosy pinkish side once it's finished and blends much better with those woods, IMO---but I'm pretty sure it's not in stock right now. Maple seems like a much better bet if you're going for warm.

Did you look at Craft Art's DIY butcherblock countertops? I'm fishing for some countertop advice myself, and am pretty much leaning in Craft Art's direction because they have the construction style I want and use full length boards and are in the Boos price but are better construction with full length boards and even come with a coat of oil already.

I considered Boos too, but they didn't have exactly what I wanted and I am partial to the full length boards (Much higher end look and it's gunna be only like 100 more - small price to pay for my focal point!).

Craft Art Homeowner DIY comes with a coat of Tung Oil already on it and you just put on more coats when you get it and I'm pretty sure Boos comes raw which just means you'll spend more time finishing it yourself.

I want a surface that's waterproof and won't give white rings like a varnique can (or so I read). Looks to me like with Tung Oil you get the best parts of an oiled finish for food safety and funciton and you'd get the best part of varnique which is waterproofing (But I'll be interested to see feedback on here so I can finalize my decision, too!)

Love to hear anyone's experience with the Craft Art DIY products.

(I asked last week in another thread on THS btw)

Good luck in your hunt!

Here is a link that might be useful: Craft Art Hard Maple DIY countertop option

>Craft Art Homeowner DIY comes with a coat of Tung Oil already on it and you just put on more coats when you get it and I'm pretty sure Boos comes raw which just means you'll spend more time finishing it yourself.

Tung oil isn't suitable for a surface you want to use for direct cutting and chopping (just as varnique, waterlox, etc. also are not).

... ? Why not writersblock?

I can understand waterlox or varnique, but not tung oil? Why would tung oil (assuming real tung oil, not "tung oil finish" which may or may not contain any actual oil from a tung nut) not be okay to cut on? It's food safe. It soaks into the wood, won't chip off and it doesn't contain any drying agents. What would the issue be?

thanks so much artemis! really helpful feedback.
i decided to go with the boos. thanks everyone :)

didn't see the most recent replies. i'll take a look at craft art. thanks!

> It's food safe.

There's a difference between food safe for a regular ol' counter (waterlox, etc. are also food safe in this regard) and food safe for when you're cutting and chopping. See this, for example:

Here is a link that might be useful: cutting board finish

I just got the difference between non-curing and curing oil finishes. I didn't realize that tung oil had to cure (I thought that only applied to waterlox which is tung oil + phenolic resin, or the like). Sheesh, I've read the thread you linked to MANY times and yet still missed it until right now.

So because the tung oil cures, it can be cut. Once it's cut, it must be reapplied.

Since the mineral oil just soaks the wood and never cures, it can not be cut, but the wood can. You only reapply if you get down to bare wood, or the block dries out.

beastbaby, craftart has some beautiful finishes but their sizes aren't really what i need & their pricing is actually more. good luck w/yours! can't wait to see it :)