My first inquiry would be to John Boos - see if they can offer any advice on staining their end grain or edge grain countertops. Staining maple and getting it to take the stain evenly can be difficult. You may want to look at using a combination of shellac as a sealer and then a gel stain.

If you just want that "lived in" look, just oil it (mineral oil or a mineral oil/beeswax product made for butcherblock). This will gradually darken it to look like it's been around for years...the more you oil it, the faster it will get there. And it will help protect it. It's what I use on my butcherblock food prep counter.

SInce you don't use yours for food prep, you could also look into waterlox or another finish. They usually have a matte or satin choice that won't make it shiny. But that will give you more of a finished wood look, rather than an old, loved butcherblock.

You might also consider tung or linseed oil. Linseed is darker than tung. Both provide a little bit of protection (more and longer lasting than mineral oil, though). Polymerized versions will provide a little more protection.

Going even darker would involve dyes or stains. That might be a bit tricky for maple, but there are a lot of different ways to get there.

This is assuming the countertops are unfinished. If you got the Boos varnique finish, then it would be best to leave things alone.

OK. We tested some stain on a leftover piece and definitely see a problem with consistency. Last thing we want to do is mess up this piece, so I think we'll give mineral oil and beeswax a shot.

Thanks!

Kay...I second Chiefneil's comment. Since it's not a food prep area, you'll get a somewhat darker look with tung or linseed oil. 'Course, you can start with coating it for a few weeks with mineral oil and if it doesn't darken enough for you, switch to one of the other non-food safe oils.

Ok, just musing here.

I've built my countertop out of maple.
What I didn't know is that (Minwax or any) wood filler doesn't take stain.

My plan had been to darken the maple a little, and I went to a professional finishing company to find a color I enjoyed. Now, I don't dare put it on.

Does anyone happen to know if the oils will soak into the filler?

Thanks.

I'm pretty sure Boos is always pre-finished - you get a choice between mystery oil and varnique. Either one would need to be removed prior to staining.

If you have mystery oil, you might consider (if doing something like waterlox) tinting or dying the finish product instead of the wood. I think waterlox has some published stuff in the flooring side about tinting their product with oil stains. You can remove most of the mystery oil by using very hot water, scrub with green scrubbie plus a drop or two of soap and then pick up all of the fluid with clean cloth or paper towels. Rinse with more hot water and pick that up too. It might take two or three applications. Let it dry for about a week. Waterlox can be used right over top.

Fillers always take product somewhat differently - I'd ask a pro woodworker about that and about suggested ways to stain maple as its a pain and blotches like h*ll.

Wood filler has no place in a butcher block counter. It needs to be removed and to have "keys" inserted instead. Maple is also exceedingly difficult to stain, and you'd be better off experimenting with dyes instead. But maple will darken and yellow as it ages, so the best treatment of all is to adjust your wants and expectations and just oil it.

...I definitely want to avoid anything that might yellow.

Then stay far, far away from any oil based products like oil/ alkyd based varnish, polyurethane, Waterlox, tung oil, 'tung oil finishes', linseed oil...

Instead, use a water borne clear topcoat like General Finishes 'High Performance.' It's a water clear finish, dries very fast--you can apply multiple coats in one day. Sands very easily between coats and has UV stabilizers in the finish. In the future, to refresh the finish, just sand lightly and reapply. I'm supposing that the maple will still yellow over time but the UV stuff should help retard that process.

I've been a huge fan of tung oil in the past but I am very impressed with this finish, esp. when you want to avoid the amber color that tung oil adds and, of course, the time factor in application/ multiple coats is huge. Haven't been using it long enough to know how well it wears but repairs promise to be easy.

McFeeley's has the best price that I've found (plus $1.00 shipping), so I'm linking to their site. (Rockler's is another source for the product.)

BTW, Christine--Famowood and/or Woodtex wood fillers readily accept oil-based stains. **I am anxious to try 'Timbermate' wood filler. Everything that I have read about it makes it sound like fabulous stuff. You might want to read up on it, too. (Oh, and FYI, Minwax products are generally crap, IMHO. :) Especially Minwax oil based stains.) Ci

Here is a link that might be useful: McFeeley's

ci-lantro: Question for you (hope this isn't hijacking). What makes Minwax a crap stain and others better? I readily grasp that the finish product might wear better, look better, etc. But the stain imparts color only (right?) and then is covered with a finish. So...what is it that makes one better than another? Ease of application? Consistency of color? Depth of color...ie. need for fewer coats? Or something else that I don't even know enough about to ask?

Melissa--My biggest objection to the Minwax stain is that it takes soooo long to really dry before you can apply a top coat. I've found that I have to give it at least four days or else the top coat will lift the stain and you end up with a muddy looking finish.

Second objection is the intensity of the color. It's like they skimp on the pigments. Of course, sometimes this is a plus if you want only a slight stain or are a novice finisher. But if you want a deep, dark, rich color, best to try another brand like Sherwin Williams.

For difficult to stain wood (maple, birch for a couple), my understanding is that you have to get into the dyes--I don't have any experience with those.

Bmorepanic: Thanks for the info on the Boos coating. Our planner is no longer working at our supplier, so I need to find someone who can confirm what's on there... it looks like a very light oil, but want to be sure.

ci lantro: I actually wouldn't mind a deep amber look... just not a sickly yellow.

Multiple applications of tung oil, or similar, seems the least intimidating. The idea of applying stains, dyes, etc. to this light maple leaves me a bit weak in the knees.

Thanks again for all the timely responses.

Ci: thanks for the explanation!

I was thinking of trying the Timbermate Grain filler on something else, but haven't gotten that far.

I am afraid I'm going to need to cut a chunk out of the face of my butcher block, where the one and only big error I made didn't meet well on the miter. Of course it's on the very end. I put the Minwax filler there and sanded it nice and smooth. HOWever... It looks like I'm screwed on that.

I've been paralyzed with angst about screwing the whole thing up. I worked so hard on it! I have picked up a stain from a corporate finishes place and just don't know how to condition the maple first. I've read and read, asked and asked, but still can't move. Now I've got to cut that section out.

Crap.
Thanks for the recommendations, ci_lantro. Hmmm... I wonder if I could saw out the Minwax and refill with something actually stainable?

Briwax comes in choices which include some color and will give an aged/used look. Clear and six colors in toulene free.

Here is a link that might be useful: Briwax

cilantro- I called General Finishes a couple of months ago and said I didn't want something that will yellow my island top... She said to use the "High Performance" as you mentioned above. She said I needed to add the x-linker to it. (4 oz x-linker per gallon)
She said McFeeleys has it. Did you use the x-linker? What does that do?

I'd love more info on your top and how it holds up as time goes on... Thanks!

So I know this is a super old thread, but I am in a similar situation right now. My contractor went ahead and ordered a maple countertop when I wanted something a bit darker.

kay161 - what did you end up doing? Are you happy with the results?